How much time do you spend at Golden Mile?
I go about twice a week. It’s important just because our suppliers can’t find just what we want. Like if I want to buy green papaya for som tum, there are so many different species that you can buy. And it’s hard to find a good supplier that’s actually going to go out and get me exactly what I want. I am quite specific with somethings so it’s good to go to Golden Mile. It keeps me up to date with what’s going on and allows me to adjust the menu where necessary.

Do you still have import a lot of stuff on your own or do you manage to get everything you need here?
We get everything we need. Nothing is grown here, it’s all imported. And most of it does come from Thailand. Some bits and bobs we do get from Malaysia too. Malaysia’s actually starting to boom in terms of their organic suppliers.

Is Isaan food getting popular?
Well it’s been slowly, but it’s not a new thing. Pok Pok did it in the States. The trend started in Portland, and then went nuts. Isaan food has started becoming popular with Westerners such as myself, Andy Ricker from Pok Pok and Jarrett Wrisley from Soul Food in Bangkok. I think we’re just trying to make it more accessible to people and especially because non-Thais, when we go to Thailand, and look at the street food, especially when we come from a country like Australia where there is no street food, we see that and I think we’re a bit put off by it. And there’s no real restaurants in Bangkok that do good Isaan food. It is tasty and for me, non-Thais have been having massaman curries and pad thai for way too long. There’s much more to Thai food.

What is it about Isaan that you like?
I think that it’s the rawness. It is what it is. A grilled piece of meat is a grilled piece of meat, with some fish sauce, lime juice and just a bit of chilli. It’s not flashy, there is no fine dining element to it. Really, it’s a peasant food. There’s no heavy creams and heavy sauces in there overpowering everything. Like the salt crusted sea bass we have at the moment. That’s what it is. That’s what you taste. And a little bit of nam jim on the side to liven it up a little. After cooking Thai food to eight to nine years, the restaurants I was working at were always more Central Plains and I was finding that on my days off, the Thai food that I was looking forward to eating was more Isaan.

We noticed the menu is listed as “Isaan-inspired” not Isaan. Was this a conscious decision?  
Kha’s been around for five years. There were some reservations whether Isaan food would work or not, whether customers would be ready for the raw, in your face flavors. And some people have said, “Wow this is really hot and this is really salty.” There is a following for the restaurant, and there are regulars who come back just for the green curry. I’m not hear to rock the boat. It’s no trouble to me to keep three curries on the menu. But what we’re focusing on is Isaan.

How authentic is your food?
The word “Issan-inspired” is trying to protect the restaurant. But the flavors are authentic to me and I’m not holding back. People have been holding back, dumbing down Thai flavors for years and what’s the point of that? 

How’s business?
Good. People do like it, especially the grilled sea bass. Isaan food is really simple so you can’t hide your mistakes and the food has to be really fresh. The reviews have been generous. 

How often do you get people saying it’s “too strong”?
You get one complaint every one or two months. It’s not actually a complaint, more just a comment. There are signs on the menu warning people this is really spicy but sometimes people don’t believe it. 

Do you have a wish list for the menu?
For me I’d like to make it more Isaan, slowly, slowly taking off those green curries and things, and then start bringing in more raw salads and interesting things like salted beef.

Chef Adam Cliff cooks at KHA.