1 Read the label. Extra virgin olive oil is unrefined and extracted by the first cold pressing of the olives. It’s a superior oil with strong aromas and flavors. Virgin olive oil is still unrefined, but can have a slightly higher acidity, making for less strong flavors. If the label says just olive oil, it’s a mix between virgin or extra virgin olive oils and other olive oils.

2 Have a plan. If your oil is for dressings and cold cooking, go for the extra virgin. If you’re making something with delicate flavors, a robust extra virgin might overpower those flavors.

3 Don’t write off mixed olive oils. They may seem pedestrian, but they also have lower smoke points than extra virgin olive oils. So if you plan to do frying or deep frying, a plain olive oil might be a better idea than an extra virgin.

4 Keep it small. Those giant, retro-looking cans of Italian olive oil may look tempting, but because olive oil is over the hill within a year, go strictly by the best before date and buy small amounts and finish them off quickly once you open them—especially extra virgin that you plan to use cold.

5 Stay in the dark. On a related note, pick a bottle that is made of dark glass to minimize exposure to sunlight. A tin can is even better.

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