Originally opened in 1949, Bharani was named after the current owner’s mother. The recipes were created by his grandfather, Lieutenant Apai Isarapakdi. Inspired by his travels to the UK and US, he came up with original dishes that used farang ingredients and flavors but made them more Thai. In 2003, Bharani was closed after its parking lot was taken over and has just recently reopened again on the same road in Sukhumvit with parking now available around the sidewalk.

The new Bharani is decorated like a cozy western cottage with only five tables (seats about 24), so advance reservations are always a good idea. To remind customers of the old times, many antique items are displayed in the corner of the restaurant such as a lamp, an iron, a typewriter and a family photograph. The atmosphere is homey in warm tones of yellow and orange. Ease yourself down on a wicker chair and chill out with jazz and a variety of easy music from the owner’s own CD collection.

The new menu has been extended with more choices in a variety of cuisines—Mexican, European, American, Thai and fusion. All dishes have a simple, homemade look to them and taste outstanding. Taco pizza (beef/chicken or pork, B180) and pla ham (smoked ham and chili salad, B150) are great choices for fans of spicy food. Khao phat neua khem (salted beef fried rice, B80) and roti kaeng ped neua luk wua phrik khi nu saun (veal curry served with roti, B150) are also full of flavor. The crispy Thai-style dessert kluay haem thawt (fried banana in crispy flour, B60) is yummy but order a little in advance as it takes 10 minutes to prepare. Also don’t miss the sumptious sai grog Bharani (Vienna sausage, B80).

After learning about our future from our American-style fortune cookies, we sit with Khun Air, the son of Bharani’s owner to talk about his family restaurant.

How did your grandpa come up with his original menu?
My mother went to the UK and the US to study, and my grandpa went to visit her. He loved cooking and tried a lot of the food there. Restaurants which served farang food were hard to find here in those days. So, my grandpa opened Bharani to dish up western food for foreigners, flight attendants and other people who liked farang food, but he also adapted it to suit Thai tastes.

You added fusion food to your new menu. Why?
Actually, I don’t like fusion food; especially if it only has a stylish appearance, but is flavorless. But it’s interesting and adds more variety to the menu. Our fusion dish is pla ham (smoked ham and chili salad, B150), which I believe is a good one.

Dining Details

Thai-style Western food awaits you at Bharani. Open Tue-Sun 10am-10pm at 96/14 Soi 23. Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-4454.