Colorful, delicate and generous with the premium produce, Issaya Siamese Club’s revamped dishes bring new life to the Asia’s 50 Best staple.

You’ll recognize the names of most dishes, though perhaps not the way that long-time Issaya chef, Ian Kittichai, has reinvented them—a whole Maine lobster adds protein to a classic krapaow (hewre made with cumin leaves, not basil, B1,800), a condensed presse of crispy-on-the-outside-moist-in-the-middle veal cheek sits in a mild gaeng kua (red coconut curry, B790), juicy capon chicken (reared in Khao Yai) comes as moist gai yang and diced into a dry and spicy, Northern-style laab (B990).

The whole Issaya experience is still as charming as ever, from the light-flooded Colonial-style corridors to the tastefully eclectic explosion of wallpapers and fabrics.

Issaya Siamese Club, 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm