This year has seen Thai fine dining with tasting menu the order of the day.

The glamorous Saawaan (39/19 Suanphlu Rd., 02-679-3775. Open Wed-Mon 6:30-11pm; Mon 6-11pm. www.fb.com/saawaanbkk) offers a 10-course menu packed full of Thai dishes that even some locals have never heard of.

Celadon (The Sukhothai, 13/3 Sathorn Rd., 023-448-888. Open daily 12-3pm, 6:00-11:30pm. www.sukhothai.com/bangkok/en/dining/restaurant-celadon) traverses the country in nine artfully presented courses, from the north with the nam prik num-indebted foam served with torched ginger atop crisp pork skin, to the south with pork sparerib in a pitch-perfect yellow curry.

The Waldorf Astoria’s Michelin-baiting Nordic-Thai showstopper, The Front Room (151 Ratchadamri Rd., 028-468-888. bit.ly/2NzH4K8), brings experimental twists to up to 10 courses, resulting in dishes like the Baking Beetroot, with pickled papaya and caviar.