How well do you know your maguro?
A tuna cheat sheet for foodies
Newbies to the sublime realms of sushi and sashimi may be surprised to note that while tuna is among the top-grade options out there, there are actually over a half-dozen varieties of tuna, or maguro, eaten in Japanese cuisine. Before you head down to your next omakase, learn the difference between the main varieties, and a bit about the best cuts.
Even if you don’t know much about tuna, the arrival of donburi hot spot Kuro Maguro at Tanjong Pagar Centre has probably taught you that its star fish, the bluefin tuna, also known as kuro maguro and hon maguro, is the most prized of them all. It’s the fish you hear of selling for millions at Tsukiji auctions, thanks in part to its unbeatable combination of umami, acidity and amazing texture.
And while wild hon maguro caught around the seas of Japan, Ireland, Canada and the Mediterranean, the majority of bluefin tuna in Singapore comes from Japan.
Far from a supermarket sushi fish, the intensely red hon maguro is served raw, in sashimi form, never cooked, as that would compromise the meat’s natural meaty firmness. Hon maguro tends to be at its best in the cold months, when it packs plenty of that delicious, melt-in-your-mouth fat.
Bigeye tuna or mebachi maguro is also known as ahi, and is the next best thing. Mebachi lives deep in the ocean and therefore has plenty of fat, too, making it a good option for affordable sashimi. It’s relatively abundant in most tropical and temperate seas, so tends to be cheaper—you’ll probably also encounter it in supermarkets. Much of the mebachi maguro in Singapore comes fresh from Indonesia.
Not to be confused with yellowtail—known as Hamachi in Japanese—yellowfin tuna, or kihada maguro (strangely also known as as ahi in Hawaii), is a tropical fish, less fatty than hon maguro or mebachi maguro. While high-quality kihada maguro is good eaten as sashimi, it’s also common to find it seared and served rare.
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Kuro Maguro
Types of tuna aside, there is a bunch of Japanese terminology for the various cuts of the tuna fish—which you will want to know as you explore the various breeds and fat contents.
The leanest part of the tuna fish—and usually the reddest—is called akami, and refers to the top part of the fish, just under the dorsal fin. Those simple tuna maki rolls with bright red fish in the middle? That’s akami.
Toro refers to the fatty—and more prized—part of the fish. You’ll want to know the two sub-varieties: chutoro is a medium-fatty cut that comes from the belly, is more pink than red and can have a slight marbling akin to beef. Otoro is the primo stuff, from the fattiest part of the belly, which melts on the tongue. It also happens to be packed with nutrients like omega-3 fatty acids. Naturally, not all otoro is the same—otoro from kihada maguro, for example, is not very fatty at all. The real prize is—you guessed it—otoro from hon maguro.
Sushi Mitsuya
Singapore has plenty of excellent, high-end sushi restaurants that will serve the best cuts of seasonal tuna. There are two, however, that specialize in tuna. The aforementioned donburi specialist Kuro Maguro brings its fish straight from the trawler, bypassing the market auction process, ensuring that the fish is fresh and as affordable as possible. Its sister restaurant at Suntec’s Eat at Seven, Maguro Donya, is also supplied by Misaki Megumi Suisan, and flies in fresh sashimi-grade fish daily.
At Anson Road's Kan Sushi, chef Nishina serves a Hokkaido kaisendon, featuring the freshest catch from Japan's most delicious island, everything from scallops to sea urchin to, you guessed it, maguro. And for something even more indulgent, try the chirashi teishoku at Marina Bay Financial Centre's Misaki, a 10-seafood extravaganza atop fluffy koshihikari rice, including shrimp, tobiko, crab claw, maguro and otoro.
For an ultra-luscious and decadent otoro dish, head to Sushi Mitsuya, where chef Ryosuke Harada lightly drapes a slice of fatty maguro belly around a miso-cured egg yolk for double the umami delight.
Plenty more where that came from. For more content on the best Japanese food in Singapore and regular updates, follow Bite! Japan on Facebook.
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Craft beer has been an enduring trend in Singapore’s nightlife scene, with more bars opening in recent months, serving everything from American micro IPAs to Belgian lambics to Danish gypsy brews. Among the plethora of options are some great Japanese craft beers, too, and we don’t just mean Sapporo Black and Kirin. We’re talking solid microbrews you’ve never heard of before, and you’ll find them everywhere if you know where to look. Here’s our mini-guide on where to go to explore the exciting world of Japanese craft beer.
The first and most visible go-to spot for Japanese craft beer, 313@somerset’s semi-alfresco bar introduced us to the pleasures not just of Sapporo Black but, more importantly, of the now ubiquitous Kiuchi Brewery Hitachino Nest offerings, from seasonal brews to classics like the white ale and the lager, all of which are available on tap here. Their bottled selection is even bigger, and on top of that, regulars should look out for their seasonal and limited-edition offerings from other breweries in Japan, too. Need more reason to go? They’re open for lunch and serve affordable sets, yakitori and other beer essentials.
New York’s Burger Joint came to Singapore last year, in a tucked-away back alley of Amoy Street, offering an affordable, wood-paneled, diner-like respite from the fancy fray with its basic but delicious burgers, and a whopping 18 craft beers on tap, covering the UK, the US, Japan and other countries. The selection changes often, but on most nights you can count on a brew or two from Japan. Recently they’ve been regularly tapping stuff by Yamanouchi brewery Tamamura Honten’s Shiga Kogen beers.
After years of pleasing us with their 313@somerset location, the people behind JiBiru have opened a new bar, in fancier surroundings, but with the same focus on Japanese craft beer. Craft Beer Bar Takumi at the Mandarin Orchard Hotel has many JiBiru staples on its menu including Hitachino Nest White Ale, Shiga Kogen Pale Ale and Owa. Adding to that, they have a focus on limited edition and barrel-aged beers like Kuro Owa Grand Cru 2013 aged in Bordeaux wine barrels, Shiga Kogen No 10 Anniversary IPA and Belgian offering Buffalo Grand Cru Barrel Aged.
One of our favorite new craft beer bars, this friendly and super casual spot on the second floor of an Amoy-area shop house is always packed with a friendly crowd, thanks to its even friendlier staff, a great selection of microbrews on their 18 rotating taps from around the world, regular and exciting single-brewery tap takeovers and Asian-inspired pub grub like bacon tempura and cereal frog legs. The taps often feature Japanese brews, and a recent tap takeover featured beers by Shiga Kogen.
Located below Anthony Zhong's (ex-Jigger & Pony) Shin Gi Tai, this cozy beerhouse sports a rustic and vintage outlook to create a super laidback vibe for all to enjoy. Besides the obvious craft beers that'll be in stock, they'll also be serving a menu of dim sum to go along with your drinks. Drinks wise, they offer over 50 different kinds of apple ciders, bottled craft beers and other alcoholic beverages. Local craft brewers like Innocence brewery and Crossroads have their craft beers pouring permanently. On the Japanese beer front, there are some regulars on the bottled and canned beers menu, such as the Suiyoubi No Neko, a witbier from Yo-Ho Brewing Company in Nagano, as well as their American-style IPA Aooni, both in cans. They also carry bottles of Nagoya Akamiso Lager, which you’ll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere.
Pioneering the whole craft-beers-in-hawker-centers trend, Good Beer Company follow-up Smith Street Taps has a loyal following. It’s basically your usual kopitiam stall setup with no frills—though plenty of delicious and cheap food nearby. You purchase your beer on the spot and sit at the ubiquitous plastic tables that surround the stall. Fans stay tuned to the bar’s Facebook page to see what’s new on tap: regular appearances by Sapporo Black and Hitachino Nest aside, they have recently carried a couple brews from Iwate prefecture’s award-winning brewery Sekinoichi Shuzo, which does Iwate Kura beers.
Like what you see? For regular updates on Japanese food and drink in Singapore, follow Bite! Japan on Facebook.
Like what you see? For regular updates on Japanese food and drink in Singapore, follow Bite! Japan on Facebook.
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Another February, another Valentine’s Day dinner to plan. If you’re over the usual options in Singapore, try something Japanese for a change. And we don’t just mean a bowl of ramen (although that, now that we think of it, would make for some nice alt-romance). Singapore’s top Japanese restaurants are pulling out all the stops for their gorgeous V-Day menus. These are a few of the most exciting.
Easily one of the most atmospheric places on this list, this long, narrow and elegantly lit Tiong Bahru stalwart is great both for sushi (best enjoyed at the bar with the talented, new chef Chong Yoong Kiong) and casual but stylish Japanese and Japanese-fusion dining. Through the end of February, they're serving a six-course couple menu ($188) that brings the best of both: oyster with yuzu pepper sauce, grilled halibut with miso, assorted sushi and sashimi and other goodies. The price includes a bottle of sake.
There aren’t too many Spanish-inspired Japanese restaurants in Singapore, and when you couple that with Boruto’s high-ceilinged, warmly lit interiors, you have a classic date night with an industrial edge on your hands. Chef Angus Chow’s Valentine’s Day menu is $188 per couple and comes with a bottle of wine, and the dishes—portioned to share—include intriguing options like beef tataki, made with A3 wagyu from Saga, foie gras a la plancha with shiitake jam; and black truffle somen with sakura ebi and caviar.
If you are in a new romance this V-Day and prefer to keep things fun and casual—preferably with a pretty waterfront view, Japanese fusion bar and restaurant Kinki is a great choice. Also famous for its regular DJ gigs, the Valentine’s package here is similarly fun and simple. On Feb 14, couplies spending $150 or more stand a chance to win a staycation, discount vouchers from The Fullerton and food vouchers for your next visit to Kinki. And if you’re currently unattached, come by on Feb 11 for a singles’ party, with games and Cupid’s Kisses (six shots) for $50.
One of 2016’s most talked-about openings, this tunnel-like, industrial-chic French-Japanese is located on Gemmill Lane and feels like dining inside a bunker—a very well-decorated bunker, that is. The specialty here, as the name might suggest, is charcoal-grilled food, though the three-course V-Day menu ($199 per couple, with two glasses of rose) has plenty of other kinds of dishes, like the Crack Me Up amuse-bouche with rice paper and ebi, and the Garden of Love main, a salad of spanner crab, orange-fennel and pomegranate dressing. The set menu is available Feb 10-14.
Fort Canning Hill’s ultra-pretty colonial white bungalow is the perfect choice for some good, old fashioned romance—so much so that it’s actually a popular spot for weddings and receptions, too! Chef Keisuke Matsumoto brings his delicate French-Japanese sensibility to the luxurious, five-course menu ($388 per couple). Dishes like the sautéed scallops with pomme ecrase, the Kagoshima wagyu steak and the amadai fish—not to mention the Pol Roger Champagne included in the set—are sure to make a memorable evening.
If you are a rock star couple that eschews traditional romance, check out what’s in store for club-like Japanese-American izakaya Izy. Cozy up knee-to-knee at the dimly lit bar, and snap a few selfies with the colorful mural behind you. Foodwise, there’s a $230 menu for two, which includes poke bowls, sashimi in Japanese tofu skin and rice bowls topped with uni, ikura and negitoro. For an extra $30 per person, you can pair your meal with three cocktails each—courtesy of secret bar Cache in the back. Learn more about Izy here.
Trained on high-quality New Zealand beef in the teppanyaki restaurants of Christchurch, chef Nick Tan at Boat Quay's Wakanui will ensure you're in good hands for your carnivorous V-Day date. The cozy restaurant is serving a four-course set menu, with main options including 21 day-aged NZ Ocean beef ribeye and NZ spring lamb chop, both cooked over a binchotan grill. Save room for the signature Anna Pavlova, Chef Tan's take on a classic New Zealand dessert.
If the relationship is too young for sweeping skyline views and multi-course fine dining, Sen of Japan is a great choice for a low-stakes but memorable date. It's very pretty, with a ground-level view of the bay, and has a contemporary Japanese menu designed by Nakano Hiromi who used to head Las Vegas' legendary NOBU. They're skipping the set menu for V-Day, so you can order their signatures like the A5 Tochigi wagyu steak and the black cod soy. But if the mood feels romantic, they have a couple of special dishes: the heart-shaped baked salmon with tartar sauce, and the pink sashimi maki, both available Feb 10-14.
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In case you’ve been living under the rock for the past couple years, Suntec is home to more than just your favorite Lush store and the exciting new PasarBella. On the seventh floor is one of Singapore’s most beloved Japanese food enclave (and there are a lot of those lately). If you haven’t been already, here’s a guide to what you will find there.
Brought to you by the same people as Tendon Kohaku, which also has a branch at Eat at Seven, Agedoki is a pretty little place, all wooden booths, red banners and lots of natural light, making it easy to forget you are in a mall. They use good ingredients, including Nagano pork, Hokkaido Nanatsuboshi rice and lots of homemade sauces, including the demiglace. Don’t miss the shrimp-wrapped katsu.
Drop by this high-ceilinged, expansive izakaya for drink-friendly eats like Jya Jya Men, cold noodles with minced meat sauce, and the restaurant’s signature Katsuo Warayaki, a slab of smoky thick cut tuna served in a foil packet. There are also sweets like mochi ice-cream and cold Coedo draft beers to round out your meal. Dine in a relaxed black and slate gray space with good city views.
Agedoki’s sister restaurant is equally adept at deep-frying, specializing in tempura donburi, or tendon. Choose from a short list of options (regular, spicy, vegetarian, et cetera), each of which includes a generous bowl of Nanatsuboshi rice and an assortment of tempura, such as crab stick, chicken, shrimp and veggies. The secret is in the sauce.
Nigiro Cafe is a Tokyo-based cafe that fuses Japanese flavors with Italian and French cooking. While the fusion cuisine has been done before, the chef behind the concept, Kensuke Sakai, has the distinction of being the youngest Japanese Iron Chef competitor. He's been touted as the creator of the best Caesar salad in Tokyo—a dish that includes grilled shrimp and generously sliced Parmesan—as well as eggs benedict and deux fromage cake.
Nikunohi is a beef-focused restaurant from Tokyo. The Singapore outlet is their first and only overseas branch. Helmed by Kensuke Sakai (yes, the very same as Nigiro), the restaurant offers yakiniku meats like beef tongue Iberico pork shoulder and beef ribs. Round out your meal with small plates such as wagyu sashimi and wagyu beef curry rice.
Most recently famous (again) for their sister outlet, Kuro Maguro at Tanjong Pagar Centre, Eat at Seven’s Maguro-Donya Miura-Misaki-Kou Sushi & Dining specializes in fresh sashimi, especially maguro tuna, salmon, swordfish and yellowtail from the Misura Misaki harbor. They've got restaurants in Yokohama, Tokyo and Kanagawa, but this is the Japanese chain's original foray overseas—with dishes of grilled magura kama and a trio of hon maguro sashimi.
The fifth restaurant to open here is Tokyo's chicken ramen chain, Menya Takeichi, which has 40 stores across Japan. Tuck into the Tokyo ramen chain's signature dish, the chicken Paitan ramen, which features a creamy chicken and collagen-infused broth. And while it's the hot favorite here, diners can also choose to have the clear soup alternative, made from bonito flakes for an umami flavor. Hearty sides include the grilled prawn with anchovy creamy sauce and the gyoza.
Sundubu, a type of Korean stew with tofu and an assortment of ingredients like chicken, beef and clams, may not be a Japanese dish, but it has quite a following in Japan. With 35 outlets across the country, Tokyo Sundubu makes its debut here at Suntec City, offering diners over 23 collagen-infused variations. The restaurant is known for its premium, handmade tofu and the savory-spicy broth boiled with tategi, a red pepper condiment.
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Singapore is awash in ramen options, and the trend is showing no signs of slowing down. If you’re suffering from ramen fatigue, or just want to know how to discern the difference between what’s great and what’s less great, fear not. We’ve spoken to Singapore’s top ramen chefs for their input.
Who better to ask about the nuances between good and great ramen than Yota Shiiba, the deputy general manager of probably Singapore’s most beloved ramen chain, Ippudo. Shiiba reminds us that despite its apparent simplicity, ramen is actually a very complicated dish. “Ramen involves stock, broth, noodles and toppings, and a great bowl of ramen achieves a good balance among all the components.”
Spicy Chilli Boss Rib Ramen at Buta Ramen
Ippudo has been in the news lately in Singapore, for the launch of Kuro-Obi, a sister concept previously only in New York City, specializing in a chicken-based broth. When asked what is so great about the signature broth, Shiida says it is the emulsification. “Similar to salad dressing, a perfect chicken broth needs to ensure both chicken soup and chicken oil are well-mixed,” he explains. “If salad dressing cannot be mixed well, the oil will be separated from others.”
It doesn’t matter how good the noodles are, or whether you like them springy or soft. If they sit in the bowl, too, long, a great bowl of ramen runs the risk of becoming just so-so. This seems to be a problem in Singapore, says chef Sandy Yeo of Buta Ramen, a CBD gem famous for its unusual additions and creative takes on ramen. “Many Singaporeans like to put their noodles in their soup spoon and then into their mouth, but by then it becomes soggy. It’s totally different from how the Japanese eat it, which is to slurp it directly from the bowl.”
Chef Sandy Yeo of Buta Ramen
Ramen chefs can debate endlessly about the finer components of technique: the ingredients of the stock, whether to simmer or boil, et cetera. But sometimes the best ramen involves an entirely unexpected technique. Asked about the most unforgettable ramen of his life, Yeo remembers a bowl at Kyoto’s famous Gogyo Ramen. The secret is the “burned broth” which is cooked in a wok after pork lard is heated to the point of flames, about 300C. “It’s an umami bomb. It hits you hard.”
Like what you see? For regular updates on Japanese food and drink in Singapore, follow Bite! Japan on Facebook.
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