Not all wagyu is made equal

We all love our wagyu. But with the myriad of types and grades of Japanese beef out there, it can all get a little confusing sometimes. Here are some of the more unknown cuts (with some more regular ones thrown in) you should know about and where you can try them in Singapore.

Toriyama wagyu

Where to try it: Ikyu
 
Unlike regular wagyu prized for its marbling (intramuscular fat), Toriyama wagyu places emphasis on umami, or how savory it tastes. At Ikyu, Chef Takuma Seki charcoal grills Toriyama beef with very little marination. He believes that the wagyu is very flavorful as it is, and the robata style allows for the natural flavors to shine.

Saga beef

 
Where to try it: Bōruto
 
Wagyu from Japan’s Saga Prefecture is known for its fine-grained marbling known as tsuya-sashi, or glossy marbling. For Bōruto’s Chef Angus Chow, he uses buttery Saga beef striploin to create his favorite dish, the gyu tataki, where he tosses thinly sliced Saga wagyu with salted kelp and saffron to create an aromatic dish.

Ohmi wagyu

 
Where to try it: Jin Fine Dining
 
Ohmi beef is regarded as one of the top three wagyu in Japan, and rightly so. While ohmi beef is not as fatty as other premium wagyu, it does carry a distinct sweetness, which Chef Ray Phun of Jin Fine Dining brings out by lightly pan-frying the beef with a little garlic oil, salt and pepper. Try it as part of his premium set available for both lunch and dinner.

Gunma beef

 
Where to try it: Kacyo
 
We all know A5 is the highest possible grade given to wagyu. But it is not easy to find A5 Gunma beef especially in Singapore. At Kacyo, which sources for premium beef on a rotational basis, you can try A5 wagyu from Kobe, Kagoshima, Miyazaki and, of course, from Gunma, which features melt-in-your-mouth marbling and intense umami.

Ozaki wagyu

 
Where to try it: Ushidoki Wagyu Kaiseki
 
Of all the wagyu types, Ozaki beef (sourced from a single farm in Miyazaki Prefecture) is the only one named after the owner of the cattle used rather than where it came from. Chef Hirohashi Nobuaki serves it in his kaiseki menus with each plate featuring a 50g striploin cut along with mountain wasabi from Hokkaido. The rich and flavorful beef is sweet yet not overwhelming to taste, meaning you can eat lots of it without feeling irked.

 

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Yes, the old Japanese food enclave at Marina Bay is now open at a new location

Fans of the old Itadakimasu, which opened and closed in Marina Bay in 2014, will be glad to know that they’ve reopened at Tanjong Pagar’s 100AM. The place will house seven Japanese restaurants serving the requisite classics, such as ramen, shabu shabu, soba, sushi and more. Out of the seven restaurants, three made their Singapore debut. Here’s what you can find at the renewed Japanese food enclave.

Shabu Shabu Gyu Jin 

 
Founded in Tokyo in 1970, the shabu shabu and sukiyaki specialist makes its debut here serving up premium A5 Japanese wagyu and Australian wagyu. 

Nadai Fujisoba Ni Hachi

 
Also making its way into Singapore for the first time, the more than 50-year-old soba chain, with over 100 outlets in Japan, does soba noodles with buckwheat imported directly from the motherland. 

Numazu Uogashizushi

 
The much-anticipated sushi experts, established in 1979 and now with 44 outlets in Shizuoka Prefecture, imports their fish directly from the Numazu port fish market auctions.

Saboten

 
The Saboten here is the third outlet in Singapore and is known for their tonkatsu and signature pork katsu served with a rich gravy and freshly milled Japanese rice. 

Ramen Keisuke Tori King 

 
Unlike its cousin outlets Ramen Keisuke Tonkotsu King and Ramen Keisuke Lobster King, among others, the ramen here comes with a whole chicken drumstick. 

Yakiniku Heijoen

 
This beef BBQ specialist features specially procured Kuroge wagyu specially aged for a more robust flavor, and served with their homemade special sauce. 

Yayoi

 
From the same people behind the Yayoiken restaurants comes Yayoi, still specialising in teishoku (set meals) that come with rice, miso soup, side dishes and mains, but with a more upmarket feel.

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Cause nothing beats that delicate crunch when biting into a good piece of tempura.

Ippoh Tempura Bar by Ginza Ippoh
The newest tempura restaurant to hit Singapore’s Japanese dining scene is also the one with the longest history. Ippoh Tempura Bar, located at lifestyle destination COMO Dempsey, is opened byGinza Ippoh, a family-owned tempura restaurant that traces its roots back to Osaka in 1850. Currently keeping up the culinary tradition is a fifth-generation member of the founding family, Chef Masaru Seki. At Ippoh Tempura Bar, lightly-battered Osaka-style tempura is cooked in prime safflower oil, so that it retains a lightness, allowing the true flavors of the premium seasonal ingredients to shine. 

Part of the 16-restaurant concept food hall that is Japan Food Town in Wisma Atria, Tempura Tsukiji Tenka’s compact menu comes with only four tempura rice bowl options, but diners can choose to add on individual tempuras to their sets. What’s special about the rice bowls here is the usage of Haenuki rice from Yamagata. The hardier rice is able to withstand the adding of tempura sauce without becoming soggy. In-between the rice and tempura is a thin layer of pickled ginger for added nuance and to help cut the heaviness of the meal. 
 

Plenty more where that came from. The Bite! Japan Facebook page is full of the latest Japanese restaurants and izakaya in Singapore, new promotions and bits of information to impressive your friends with. Follow us here.


 
Tenshin Restaurant 
An institution in its own right, Tenshin is the very first restaurant in Singapore to specialize inJapanese tempura, using fresh produce imported straight from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. The menu changes accordingly with the seasons, but the highlight here is that apart from the usual dipping sauce, the restaurant also offers four different flavored salts - sea, chilli, matcha and curry. This allows diners to mix and match the tempura and salts to their personal preferences. 
 
Ginza Tendon Itsuki 
Singapore’s love for a hearty tempura rice bowl can be seen in the snaking queues that form outside of Ginza Tendon Itsuki everyday come lunchtime. This eighth restaurant concept by Ramen Keisuke is located along Tanjong Pagar Road and is a collaboration between him and chef-owner Naoki Takaku of Ginza Itsuki Sushi. Served in elegant Arita porcelain bowls, the tendon options here is limited to two - Special, with two pieces each of prawn and chicken tempura, and four pieces of vegetables; as well as Vegetable, with tempuras of pumpkin, shiitake mushroom, lotus root, eggplant and four other vegetables. 
 
Tempura Kohaku 
Eat at Seven in Suntec City is a cluster of seven Japanese restaurant concepts, one of which isTempura Kohaku, known for their use of Edomae-style tendon served with Hokkaido rice. Edomae tempura is fried in a mixture of sesame oil and vegetable oil to give more fragrance and flavor. There are just four types of tempura rice bowls available here - the signature, vegetable, spicy, orvegetable spicy, but all bowls come with such a huge heaping of tempura that another smaller bowl is provided to place the overflowing tempura, so that diners can more easily reach the rice at the bottom.

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Have a taste of spring without leaving Singapore

One of the ways Japanese celebrate the arrival of spring is to feast on fresh seasonal flavors. Various buds and sprouts that survived the harsh winter are harvested during this season. Sakura-like pink-fleshed seafood become available too and are both a feast for the eyes and your palate. Here are some of the best seasonal specials that you can enjoy right here in Singapore. 

Takenoko (bamboo shoot) 
 
What is it: Takenoko, or young bamboo shoot is the king of all spring vegetables. Fresh takenoko is crunchy, sweet and fragrant, but requires special preparation techniques to get it right. 
 
Get it at: At Tamashii Robataya, takenoko is cooked with rice bran for 2.5 hours to reduce its bitterness before being marinated in homemade sauce for 6 more hours. The bamboo shoot is then steamed and grilled till charred before it is served with homemade Kinome miso, a sweet miso paste with chopped fragrant spring buds. 
 
Hokkigai (Japanese surf clams) 
 
What is it: The saltwater clam is not only sweet and aromatic but is good for your body, containing protein, iron and Omega-3 fatty acids. Hokkigai turns bright pink when lightly blanched in boiling water. 
 
Get it at: Hokkigai are best enjoyed in the late spring and early summer seasons. These highly nutritious yet low-calorie delicacies are soft and chewy, perfectlycomplementing the springy texture and briny sweetness of the tarabagani (king crab) featured in this dish from Hashida Sushi
 
Sakura Trout (masu salmon or cherry salmon) 
 
What is it: Only during the egg-laying period in spring does sakura trout take on a beautiful pink hue, resembling the color of sakura petals. Consider yourself lucky if you come across this highly sought after fish, even in Japan. 
 
Get it at: At Sushi Mitsuya, where fillet sakura trout is frozen for three days before being soaked in salt water. The seasoned trout is then packed inside a vacuum bag and cooked in 45 degree Celsius warm water for 50 minutes. Following that, the confit sakura trout is wrapped in salt-cured sakura leaves overnight, then served with starchy bonitosauce and cured sakura petals. 
 
Fukinotou (butterbur buds) 
 
What is it: Another symbolic wild vegetable during spring time is the young shoot of giant butterbur. It has a distinctive earthy bitterness to it and is often served as tempura or tossed in miso. 
 
Get it at: Fukinotou is chopped and cooked with miso to make fukimiso. At Kaiseki Yoshiyuki, the charcoal-grilled ohmi wagyu beef is served with the aromatic homemade fukimiso. The slight bitterness of chopped fukinotou adds a nice kick to the tender beef. 
 
Sakura (cherry blossom) 
 
What is it: Sakura is not only beautiful to look at but adds a flowery fragrance to many dishes too. Preserved sakura leaf is traditionally enjoyed by Japanese as edible wrappers for sakura mochi, a sweet pink-colored rice cake stuffed with a red bean paste. 
 
Get it at: Hashida Sushi adds a unique twist to Japan’s iconic sakura mochi. Tai no Domyoji Mushi is a delicate arrangement of pink mochi rice filled with seabream and wrapped with an aromatic salted cherry leaf.

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Tips from Singapore’s top nihonshu experts

First things first, in Japan, sake refers to alcohol. What many non-Japanese think of as sake is actually nihonshu – an alcoholic fermented rice beverage – that for the record, isn’t rice wine. We chat with sake professionals about all things nihonshu.

Mind your P’s and Q’s

Daisuke Kawai

We know you’ve been wondering about this, and to answer your question, yes, there is indeed sake drinking etiquette. In Japanese culture, it’s a nice gesture to pour sake for the people you're with. Drinking sake with someone is very much about nurturing that relationship, says Daisuke Kawai, Chief Sommelier and Co-founder of La Terre.

Context is important

There isn’t a one size fits all answer when it comes to sake. Maria Luisa Satoh, Sake Sommelier/Senior Sales and Marketing Manager of Orihara, explains: In Japan, they always consider the situation, food, and season, when deciding on the type of ochoko (cups), tokkuri (flask) and temperature to serve sake.

For example, when in a traditional sushi restaurant, Kawai prefers glass ochoko and tokkuri for chilled sake, and ceramic ochoko and tokkuri for warm sake. However, if he’s in a modern Japanese establishment, he opts for wine glasses instead.


Plenty more where that came from. The Bite! Japan Facebook page is full of the latest Japanese restaurants and izakaya in Singapore, new promotions and bits of information to impressive your friends with. Follow us here.


Don’t shun the wine glass 

Adrian Goh

Interestingly, Makoto Iwabuchi, Ki-sho’s Master Sake Sommelier, always uses non-traditional wine glasses to serve nihonshu. Meanwhile, Adrian Goh, Sake Sommelier/Marketing Director of Inter Rice Asia, is a champion of sake being served in wine glasses. Modern sake has diverse and interesting aromas. Using wine glasses allows the consumer to appreciate the complex aromas more easily.

Some like it hot

According to Goh, different sake styles suit different temperatures. If you aren’t sure, the easiest thing to do is to refer to the brewer’s recommendation on the back label of the bottle. His rule of thumb: Light, aromatic sake like ginjo is better chilled (around 11-15 degrees Celsius), while sake with more acidity and body like junmai tend to fare better between 16-20 degrees Celsius.

Choices, choices, choices

Different types of sake

Don’t feel intimidated by the numerous sake options out there. To get you started, Kawai offers some advice if you’re usually more of a wine drinker. Like Riesling? Then try junmai gingo as it tends to be fruit-forward and floral with a banana-like aroma. Into bold Australian Shiraz? Give genshu a shot. It has a stronger flavor and punch, thanks to its higher alcohol percentage (about 16-19%). Fancy natural wines? Pick a namazake. This unpasteurized style of sake usually has a raw quality to it yet still has a smooth, soft mouthfeel.

Be adventurous

Pairing Japanese food with sake may be the norm, but don’t be afraid to experiment. Iwabuchi suggests ginjo with fresh cheese like mozzarella as the fruity element of ginjo balances the cheese’s lightness, while strong-tasting, hard cheese enhances the umami quality of yamahai sake’s rich, complex flavor.

Goh feels that aromatic junmai daiginjo works well with white fish, scallops, green salads, and prosciutto melon; refreshing honjozo pairs nicely with sashimi, tofu, yakitori, prawns, dumplings, and wanton mee; rich junmai complements red meat dishes, bouillabaisse, and squid ink pasta; aged sake matches with broiled eel, foie gras, peking duck, and even tandoori chicken.

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Japanese cuisine will not be the same without them

There may be a myriad of top-notch chefs from Japan who have set up shop here in Singapore, but some of them have clearly managed to stand head and shoulders above the rest. While some were already renowned before coming to our shores, others gained a loyal following through sheer proof of their culinary chops. Here are the names of some who have earned their accolades.

Tetsuya Wakuda of Waku Ghin

Tetsuya Wakuda, chef at Marina Bay Sands’ hot ticket Japanese restaurant Waku Ghin, is best known for his world famous namesake establishment Tetsuya in Sydney. He first arrived in the Australian city from Hamamatsu — a town in Honshu in the Shizuoka prefecture — at the age of 22. He got a job at eatery Fishwives in Surry Hills and soon fell in love with the food and the country. Slowly working his way up, he eventually became one of the best known chefs Down Under. He then opened Waku Ghin here in 2010, which won a star in Singapore's first-ever Michelin guide in July 2016.

Kenjiro Hashida of Hashida Sushi Singapore

Kenjiro Hashida (fondly known as Hatch) helms the kitchen of omakase fine dining establishment Hashida Sushi Singapore, which has recently undergone a relocation and facelift. Hatch, having trained under his father who is one of Japan’s master sushi chefs, begin his training as soon as he was old enough to step into the restaurant at age 12. He recalls his father training his palate by constantly having surprise blind tastings with a little monetary reward given if Hatch guessed the food correctly. After deciding to further his career as a sushi chef, he worked tirelessly alongside his father full-time. Despite many offers to set up shop in USA and Shanghai, he chose Singapore for its exciting mix of cultures and a robust dining scene.

Asai Masashi of Bincho at Hua Bee

Helming the space made famous by filmmaker Eric Khoo's Mee Pok Man (1995) is Asai Masashi, the mastermind behind Bincho at Hua Bee. He moved to Singapore 14 years ago looking for new experiences, after training at the well-known Abeno Tsuji Culinary Institute and having worked at establishments in Hyogo, Osaka and Kyoto. Masashi’s cooking style here is influenced heavily from growing up in the Hyogo Prefecture, an area known for quality produce. That is why the cuisine at Bincho has a light touch and avoids heavy seasoning to allow the natural flavor of food to shine.

Kazuhiro Hamamoto of Ki-Sho

It’s not surprising how Kazuhiro Hamamoto got onto the food scene, especially since he’s been religiously following the Japanese television cooking show Iron Chef, produced by Fuji Television, since he was 12 years old. Naturally, he started working at a Japanese restaurant in his teenage years and enrolled himself to Kyoto’s culinary arts college at 17. There, he worked at various high-end establishments before deciding to hit the international culinary scene to broaden his skills and experience, and has since been in Singapore for the past eight years. He moved here because he landed himself a job at the prestigious Waku Ghin before helming Ki-Sho. Equipped with the skills and knowledge of Kyoto cuisine, he instils his own personal touches in terms of taste and presentation to make them truly unique to Ki-Sho.

Hal Yamashita of Syun

Hal Yamashita was born in a port city in Kobe. The confluence of cultures in his hometown meant Yamashita was exposed to spices, scents and food produce from all over the world. From a young age, he enjoyed tasting new food and recreating dishes for himself. His early exposure to global influences helped him develop a distinct brand of nouvelle Japanese cuisine. He now helms numerous award winning restaurants including Nadaban Dining in Kobe and Hal Yamashita in Tokyo, and of course Syun, located at Singapore’s Resorts World Sentosa. Here, his dishes still focus on seasonal produce sourced near his hometown such as from Awaji Island and Tanba.

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