Parallel to the Chao Praya River, Charoenkrung, Bangkok’s first functional road, is the ‘hood where buildings hold historical value, hip cafes spring up left and right, and vibrant murals color weathered walls down every soi.


Hei Jii

Coffee & Breakfast

Cure your hangover with Sarnies’ avocado toast (with feta cheese, roasted tomatoes and dukkah on sourdough; 280) and an iced coconut long black (B140). Get jittery with more caffeine via a bottle of cold brew (B150) at eccentrically-designed Tangible. Drop by Tokyo Hot for some khanom tokyo with tangy fillings like mala chicken (B30) and krapao moo (B35) before waltzing your way to Hei Jii across the street. They do ‘grammable Earl Grey chiffon cakes and financiers (both B150). Beat the heat with a scoop of uji matcha ice cream on a chocolate waffle cone (B79) at Milli House of Ice Cream, then continue along the road to sugar high with The Hidden Milkbar’s Jaffas milkshake (chocolate and orange; B160) or a strawberry milkshake (B165) at American diner-style Fats and Angry. 


Jua


Wuatong Pochana

Lunch & Dinner

You can find almost every cuisine the world has to offer on the streets of Charoenkrung. From upscale street food like Wuatong Pochana’s guay tiew nuea with Qingdao-imported fen tiao noodles (B135) and Kua’s kua gai (stir-fried noodles with chicken; B89) and fried mantou (B29) to Thai cuisine with creative twists at 80/20—they’re offering a 10-course pre-monsoon season tasting menu (from B3,000) at the moment. Just a few steps away, Jua turned a former illegal casino into an uber-cool izakaya, serving a lineup of yakitori, ranging from chicken liver (B90) to angus beef (B250). To spice things up, try the chicken biryani (B165) and mutton butter (B325) at long-standing Himali Cha Cha and Son.

 

Tropic City 

Drinks

Snuggled in Charoenkrung 28, the tiki-inspired rum bar Tropic City shakes up refreshing concoctions (from B350). If jazz is up your alley, swing by Bangkok’s oldest jazz institution Bamboo Bar on the first floor of the Mandarin Oriental for the real deal. Red velvet-draped To More takes musicals and turns them into inspiration for cocktails like Miss Saigon (gin, elderflower, thyme, lemongrass and egg white foam; B320). Need some fresh air? High Tide Eatery and Bar offers prime views overlooking IconSiam and bustling Chao Phraya river. For a more laid-back vibe, check out the cult-favorite ramshackle river shack, Jack’s Bar.

Transport

BTS Saphan Taksin.


ATT Gallery

Visit

Awaken your inner hipster, load up your film camera and brace yourself for a photo-walking-slash-gallery hopping. Start off by snapping some cool shots of Charoenkrung’s art hub Warehouse 30. Stop by freshly opened Aurum Gallery; they’re currently displaying contemporary paintings by influential artists like Barry Reigate and Ben Eine. Meanwhile, the nearby mixed-use art hub ATT 19 showcases antique ceramics and sculptures. Immerse yourself in original pieces from the pioneer of pop art, Andy Warhol, over at River City Bangkok. A stone’s throw away, you can trip on alternative artworks at offbeat Speedy Grandma. Need to get your film developed? Hit up Fotoclub.


Speedy Grandma

Accommodation

Situated opposite Asiatique, Notting Hill the Exclusive Charoenkrung offers one-bedroom units from B14,000/month. Only a five-minute walk from BTS Saphan Taksin, you can get a one-bedroom for B25,000/month at Rhythm Sathorn. Surrounded by the ‘hood’s hotspots, The Room Charoenkrung 30’s one-bedroom is priced from B28,000/month. Moving a little closer to the river, one-bedroom apartments at Chatrium Residence Riverside will set you back at B35,000/month, while two-bedrooms at Menam Residences run from B60,000/month.

BK Asks

What makes Charoenkrung so cool?
 

Shinpanu Athichathanabadee, founder of Tangible
“Charoenkrung is a patchwork made of multiple cultures in each era, and that makes it intriguing.”

Chanokchon Lee, one of the founders of Fats and Angry
“It truly is a charming district. The combination of old buildings and street art—it’s like these buildings can tell their own stories.”

Mook Attakanwong, creative director of ATT 19
“Unlike other neighborhoods, you can see the intersection of modern development and tradition fused together in a respectful manner.”