Phaholyothin Soi 18/1

Where: Chatuchak/Mo Chit

Just behind BTS Mo Chit parking lot is a long, leafy strip of road traditionally known as Soi Ruam Siri Mit, but which most locals call “Soi Channel 7,” in reference to the broadcasting studio which dominates one side of the road. Aside from one main condo (U-Delight Chatuchak), this hidden soi has a very Thai-Thai vibe, lined by mostly old flats, shop-houses and food stalls. Walking around here feels probably a lot like Ari did back in the day.




Quench your thirst with a smoothie at the health-conscious Seven (Phahon Yothin Soi 18/1 Yaek 2, 081-901-8622)—try the pink Asian Remedy (B95), a combination of dragon fruit and coconut water. Their menu also boasts energy-boosting dishes like cheesy toast (B100) topped with sunflower sprouts. Towards the end of the soi, you’ll find the petite Three Little Birds Coffee (Phahon Yothin Soi 18/1 Yaek 26), serving the usual selection of coffee in a friendly setting similar to a friend’s living room. 

Restaurants & Bars


First Floor Dining Room
New to the soi is First Floor Dining Room (1032/67 Phahon Yothin Soi 18/1, 081-206-7007), which we’re sure will soon be a popular staple in the neighborhood. Most striking about this place is its rustic appeal, from the throwback kopitam round tables and chairs to the bare concrete walls and wooden ceilings. As the name suggests, the first floor is a restaurant which mainly serves Thai home-cooked dishes like pork omelets, pad kaprao and chicken tom yum soup (B70-75). The second floor is the Mezzanine, a coffee shop by day and cocktail bar by night, serving old fashioneds (B280) and negronis (B180).


What Else?


Good Space 

A few minutes’ walk down the soi, next to Seven cafe, is Good Space (Phahon Yothin Soi 18/1 Yaek 2, 095-804-4610), a co-working space that shuns the tech startup aesthetic in favor of a more makeshift indie vibe, all bathed in natural light and looking out onto plenty of greenery. On top of the usual meeting rooms and hot desks (a day pass starts at B250 including a drink), there’s a vinyl record corner and a gallery space. One of the favorite local pastimes is attending the muay Thai fights that take place at Channel 7 Boxing Stadium every Sunday. For the best seats, head there from midday ahead of the 2:15 start time. Entry is free.

Thararom Soi 2 


Where: Thonglor

Between Thonglor sois 18 and 20 is a street whose peaceful vibe and picturesque, leafy appearance is atypical of this bustling neighborhood. While Thonglor is full of swanky clubs and bars, walking into this semi-residential soi is a breath of fresh air. Besides the rows of dream townhouses, Thararom Soi 2 boasts cool bars and authentic Japanese eateries.  

Restaurants & Bars

Shades of Retro 
Hyotan Kappo 

Pass by glitzy wine bar Bottoms Up (888 Thararom Soi 2, 02-381-8020) and its row of supercars, and head straight for Shades of Retro (808/12 Thararom Soi 2, 02-714-9450), which after 17 years remains one of Thonglor’s most iconic bars. Surround yourself with old-school surfboards, Vespas and other bric-a-brac and sip on an ice-cold beer while listening to the funkiest sounds this side of Studio Lam. During the day, coffees start at B60 for an espresso. Further down the soi are two relatively new Japanese restaurants—the Instagram-worthy Hyotan Kappo (812 Thararom Soi 2, 061-516-1777), which does oden (Japanese stew) and sashimi, and Sobakiri Gonoji (810/2 Thararom Soi 2, 02-130-6212), which specializes in home-kneaded soba noodles. Last but not least is 12 x 12 (810/22 Thararom Soi 2, 094-260-4713), which is basically every hipster’s wet dream. Duck inside the low door frame and you’ll be greeted by a soundtrack of world music and a homely setting of couches and other mix-and-match furnishings. 


Sobakiri Gonoji 
12 x 12 

Sukumvit Soi 69


Where: Phra Khanong

Move over Phrom Phong, this strip’s the new contender for the title of “Little Japan.” Just a couple minutes’ dash from BTS Phra Khanong, Sukhumvit Soi 69 and the adjoining Pridi Banomyong Soi 3 may not look like much—crumbling townhouses and tangled electricity cables—but offer up a wealth of quirky eating, drinking and shopping finds with a distinctly Japanese flavor. 

Restaurants & Bars

Okinawa Kinjo  

Jaded foodies looking for a quick fix of adventure should  visit Okinawa Kinjo (24/1 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 02-711-0536), a modest shop-house izakaya dedicated to Okinawan cuisine. Beyond the recognizable gyoza and takowasabi, expect dishes brimming with textures of tofu, fermented fish and spam (yes, spam) to wash down with copious Asahi. Next door’s charming Koryoriya-te (24 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 092-472-0701) is a wood-heavy Japanese bar that’s all about sake and shochu. For broader international flavors, there’s always W District (Sukhumvit Rd., 02-381-2277), the vast open-air hub of food and drink tucked off the soi—in particular, we vouch for the Vietnamese sandwiches at Banh Mi Crispy (081-172-4918). 


The Orange’s Tea

Nestled about 100 meters down Pridi Banomyong Soi 3, The Orange’s Tea (24/22 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 095-564-1642) is a quaint little cafe serving high-quality, whole leaf teas—try the signature Hipster Moroccan Nitro (B130), a cold brew made from black tea and mint leaves that’s charged with nitrogen. For something more traditional, go for their honey blend Oolong tea, You Oolong With Me (B110), to pair with their homemade carrot cake (B60).   

What Else?

Track Addict Records 

For a dose of street art, visit Goja (5/2 Pridi Banomyong Soi 3, 085-848-7576), an old shop house-turned-gallery and bar boasting a clean and very cool Japanese feel. Its two plain white walls are lined with art pieces, with DJs providing a bumping hiphop soundtrack. For exhibition openings, the party often spreads out onto the street. As for shopping, the very small, very hidden Track Addict Records (MT&T Building, Sukhumvit Soi 69, 02-054-9669) is packed with an impressive collection of wax from B300, whether rare old finds (Pink Floyd’s The Wall, anyone?) or up-to-minute movie soundtracks. Thrifty Japanophiles should also check out Masaru Japan Store (26/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 063-969-7999) and Tokyo Joe (24/17 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 02-751-2544), both treasure troves of new and secondhand goodies. Masaru covers everything from toys and kitchenware to yet more vinyl records, while Tokyo Joe is more fashion-focused with emphasis on big brands—score Celine and Giorgio Armani pants and jeans from as low as B399. 


Masaru Japan Store 
Tokyo Joe

Soi Sena Ruam


Where: Ari/Saphan Kwai

Slap bang between Ari and Saphan Kwai stations sits this up-and-coming residential area. Although a relative public transport no-man’s-land (you may have noticed the grayed-out station on the BTS map), the soi officially known as Phahon Yothin Soi 11 is proving a hit with developers. Currently in the works is the uber-hip Craftsmen Hotel, but the soi has already had a makeover in the form of brand new pavement (tactile paving for the blind included, no less), making this long strip a pleasant place for a stroll. 


Caffe Undici  
Doctor Roaster

This is where Soi Rena Ruam really shines. Caffe Undici (G/F, Senabadee 1 Bldg., 4/7 Phahon Yothin Soi 11, 02-279-6368) serves up classic sweets like flourless chocolate cake (B85) and chocolate crepes with ice cream (B95) together with iced matcha green tea latte (B90) in a European-style setting. Close by is Doctor Roaster (53 Phahon Yothin Soi 11, 081-810-1983) run by a neurosurgeon who’s passionate about coffee. They’re only open on weekends, so do try their signature Panama Geisha (B250)—Earl Grey-flavored drip coffee with a light scent of blueberries. Neighboring PH1b Coffee Bar (39 Phahon Yothin Soi 11, 08-1339-0081) has a New York loft feel and concentrates on coffee, tea and handmade cakes, plus sandwiches and salads. Complete your cafe-hopping at the new Before Thirtieth Cafe (36/4 Phahon Yothin Soi 11, 085-044-2443), a quaint little shop that sources its beans from Thailand’s Doi Chang and Nan, as well as further afield. 


PH1b Coffee Bar
Before Thirtieth Cafe 



In a street with no shortage of Japanese restaurants, one name stands out: Sasori (39 Phahon Yothin Soi 11, 02-042-7797), a cozy nook of an izakaya from the same kushiyaki experts behind Ari’s Sousaku and Nabe Nabe. Head here for meaty specialties like chicken thigh with a hit of yuzu kosho (B45) and Australian beef with leek (B55) in a wood-heavy setting made for a few too many draft Sapporo beers (B160). Also on the soi is Pizza Pazza (39 Phaholyothin Soi 11, 02-279-3514), a warm and welcoming Italian pizzeria that’s always packed on weekends for its crunchy-based pies (B180–B515). 


Pizza Pazza


What Else?


If you love to shop at Siam Square or Chatuchak Market, there’s a good chance you know hipster clothing brand Voidshop (Phaholyothin Soi 11, 089-789-3977). They just opened a shop here right next to Oranjii, selling trendy, bohemian-inspired clothes, from T-shirts, jeans, skirts and jackets to accessories like sunglasses (from B390), bucket hats, wallets (from B690), tote bags (from B390), and shoes (B490). 



Where:Chong Nonsi

Swinging Sathorn needs no introduction, but while sois 10 and 12, Suan Phlu and Convent vie for attention, this little alley not far from BTS Chong Nonsi is starting to make a name for itself beyond the local office hordes. 


Dexter Cafe & Bar 
A Clay Cafe 

Dexter Cafe & Bar (Sathorn Soi 8, 02-636-6222) kicks off the soi with an all-day brunch menu amid white subway tiles, inspirational quotes and marquee signage. It’s vying for attention with the new A Clay Cafe (50 Sathorn Soi 8), which has taken over a grand townhouse dating back to the ‘80s with a mid-century modern mix of wood and tiles that’s perfect for enjoying the dirt-cheap coffee (B40-55) and herbal teas (B45). They also host regular ceramics workshops. Then there’s the crazy -popular Coffeelism (Sathorn Soi 8, 081-599-5961), the hippest coffee stand in the ‘hood serving only specialty coffee blends starting from the low price of B40 for an espresso. Need somewhere to sit? Join the tourists in rented costumes at Unicorn Cafe (Sathorn Soi 8, 086-397-9262), the internet sensation dedicated to all things rainbow-colored (yes, there’s even a rainbow burger, B250).

  Unicorn Cafe



For a more grown-up meal, visit Teppen (48 Sathorn Soi 8, 02-237-2537), which hides behind a black, unmarked wall. The staff at this second iteration of the buzzing izakaya (the original is in Ekkamai) will greet you with a rousing “irasshaimase!” before handing over a menu dedicated to classic Japanese bar bites (sashimi platter, B730; karaage chicken, B180). The lunch sets, from B190, are a steal. 

What Else?

Wild Clinic and Organic Treat 

New spa Wild Clinic and Organic Treat (44/6 Silom Soi 3, 02-101-6978) offers a photogenic white setting that pairs with organic treatments like facials, skin lasering, waxing and Botox in names like The Fountain of Youth (which uses water pressure to renew your skin, B12,000).