Why life is better than ever on the wrong side of Sukhumvit.
Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor) may be a hub for all things hip and exclusive, but there’s a lot going on now on the other side of the tracks. The quieter parallel sois of Sukhumvit 36 and 38 are home to some of Bangkok’s best brunch spots, low-key craft beer bars, and charming cafes. Here’s what it’s like to live in Thonglor’s serene even-numbered sois.
Coffee & Breakfast
Wake up with a dirty chai (espresso, steamed milk, and spiced black tea; B120) and a filling Bluedye Breakie (two sunny-side up eggs, sausage, ham, bread, and green salad; B250) at photogenic Bluedye Cafe. Or drop by cozy Caffe Olives for their homemade sourdough brulee French toast (B180) before venturing down to Ccup Cafe for a refreshing Thai milk tea (B50). On Soi 38, minimalist Hands and Heart serves seriously good hand-brewed coffee made from high-quality single-origin beans (B180 for the Kenya Kamwangi washed process), while its all-day brunch sister H Dining doles out comforting dishes like B&Waff (sourdough waffle, smoke bacon, duck egg, avocado, caper berries, and maple syrup; B180). If you’re all about egg-centric fare and healthy drinks, don’t miss Toby’s cold-pressed juices (from B150) to go with your Egg Mikado (sourdough topped with two poached eggs, cured salmon and orange hollandaise sauce; B320).
L'Oliva Ristorante Italian & Wine bar
Dick Hotdog; credit: fb.com/Dickhotdog.yourhotdogfriend
Lunch & Dinner
Don’t miss the drool-worthy Neapolitan pizzas, cold cuts, and other heartwarming Italian dishes at L’Oliva Ristorante Italian & Wine bar or full-flavored American-style comfort food like the pastrami burger (B280) at Schnitzel’s and the Dick’s Original (B95) served with cheesy fries (B140) at Dick Hotdog. A slew of Thai eats can also be enjoyed between these two sois—Oysters Queen for zesty poo dong (pickled crab; from B450) served with seafood sauce; Karaked for yum mama (spicy instant noodle salad; B180); Boonlang for braised chicken noodles (B50); Jok Sukhumvit 38 for century egg and pork congee (B55); Rasri Kha Moo for braised pork leg on rice (B50); and upscale Vivarium for kaeng som pla hima (snow fish in Thai sour curry; B540). Fusion restaurant Sundays, meanwhile, offers slightly more out-there dishes like spaghetti with salted egg and crab cream (B340) and Korean-style stir-fried mama noodles with crying tiger beef and a fried egg (B280). If you’re in the mood for Cantonese cuisine, hit up Jin Mun Lou for their signature crispy duck guitar (from B300).
Yard Bar; credit: fb.com/yardbarbkk
Beer drinkers probably already know about Duke of Beerington, whose fridges are stocked with dozens of fresh craft beers for takeaway or to drink in the one-room bar. But they can also hit up Yard Bar for their signature 700ml Yardie (B360) followed by Uppercut Beer for a Deep Creek Zen Hazy IPA (B321). For special occasions, check out L’Oliva for wine, the rooftop bar at soon-to-open Japanese club AQ Gourmet & Dine for sake, or the retro-style speakeasy Middle Bar for cocktails.
BTS Thonglor is just a stone’s throw away.
Get whipped into shape at Powerbreathe Pilates Studio or at the HIIT and strength-based specialist Base. Looking to unwind? Head to Preme Spa (B800 for a 60-minute Thai massage) or No.38 Infinite Natural Spa (B1,300 for a 60-minute aromatic massage). Art enthusiasts can check out Art Gallery 36 for art paintings on sale or Karmavijitra for a look back at erotic art through Thai history, while fashionistas can visit Azur Tokyo for luxury label bargains.
Rhythm Sukhumvit 36-38
Close to the BTS, Noble Remix offers 40-sq-meter one-bedrooms starting from B16,000/month, while two-bedroom apartments at The Esse Sukhumvit 36 will set you back a lofty B72,000-90,000/month. Further down, Rhythm Sukhumvit 36-38 offers 496 units from B12,000-80,000/ month. Bored of condo living? A two-bedroom apartment at Sunshine Court starts at B24,000/month.
Why is life better on the other side of Sukhumvit?
“Equally accessible to the bustling Thonglor side from the BTS, sois 36 and 38 have more of a peaceful, residential charm.”
Patariya Sirodom, co-founder of Ccup Cafe
“Soi 36 conveniently connects to Rama 4 and Sukhumvit but still remains pretty quiet. It’s home to diverse businesses, too.”