Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-621-1205. Open Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Fri-Sat 10am-8pm.
It might be a chain, but this branch of True Café on our own Champs-Élysées scores big in terms of originality. Set in the same contemporary Thai building as the recently-opened Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall and Library, the café is a favorite spot among tourists and students alike. We highly recommend the leafy alfresco area where you can admire the grandeur and chaos of Democracy Monument.
138 Phra Athit Rd., 02-281-4228. Open Sun-Sat 10:30am-8pm.
Located on the corner directly across the street from Phra Sumen Fort, this bakery’s goodies just might transport you to Europe. The ingredients for their homemade cheesecake and mousse (B85-150) and their variety of fruit teas (B60/cup, B110/pot) are imported from France, and the coffee (B55-80) comes from Italy. Seating is limited, keeping the atmosphere quiet and relaxed.
102/1 Phra Athit Rd., 02-280-7879. Open Sun-Thu 10am-9pm, Fri-Sat 10am-10pm.
Previously home to an old civil servant, Baan Phra Athit now shares a small portion of its historic nobility with its ground-floor coffee shop, Coffee & More. The vibe is clean-cut but laid back, with comfy couches, free Wi-Fi, an in-house library and a delightful display of cakes. The menu offers a variety of coffee classics (B50), cool drinks, teas and smoothies (from B50), sandwiches, salads and appetizers (B75-120), an assortment of Thai favorites (B65) and your favorite local brews (B65).
32 Khao San Rd., 02-629-1144. Open daily 10am-12:30am.
Maintaining the area’s perpetual love affair with all things retro, Fabulous Bar and Dessert Café provides its regular crowd of local students and passing tourists with a cozy yet personable atmosphere. The furniture of yesteryear, including a plaid couch and kitschy lamps, is nicely situated so guests can enjoy private conversations in their own little nooks. Serving up tea, coffee, desserts and free Wi-Fi by day, this place keeps its appeal at night with its black menu of cocktails and laid-back jazz tunes.
Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-4465. Open Sun-Sat 7am-11:30pm.
Situated between Phra Athit Pier and Phra Sumen Fort is a little restaurant that highlights the beauty of sticking to the basics. Simple and clean, Take-a-Seat welcomes its customers with basic four-seater tables and an apparently random collection of colorful, framed pictures encircling the dining room. The menu is straightforward with its options of Thai favorites (B80-250), essential Western snacks like soups, salads and sandwiches (B45-95) and pasta with Thai-fusion sauces (B60-80). And if you prefer to enjoy your meal from a street-side stool, they also have two charming tables out front.
86 Chakrapong Rd., 02-282-9948. Open daily 10am-12am.
Located down a small alley between Soi Rambutri and the police station, this Israeli establishment plays constant host to crowds of farangs. They come for the Middle Eastern dishes like the famous lamb shawarma (B200) and shakshuka (B80), as well as classic dips like the tzatziki and hummus (B40-110). It certainly makes for a much classier and more affordable option to the seedy vibes of Nana.
88/2 Chakrapong Rd., 02-281-8947. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm.
Although this place is right next to Shoshana, it manages to be off the farang-radar and has a much more local clientele, drawn to its affordable Japanese options. They serve up a range of okonomiyaki (grilled dishes) for B115-175, sushi (B25-55) and sashimi (B105-185). They come with no frills attached—the décor is quiet and simple with a few traditional Japanese low-tables and a few two-seaters, in addition to one outdoor table.
Soi Rambuttri., 02-629-3590. Open daily 6pm-1am.
This institution is a hit with the young, local Indian community who like to mop up nights out with some classic Indian cuisine. The two-story building is dimly lit but warm and comfy thanks to the red lighting and the cushions spread around the floor. As well as the tasty, well-spiced food (don’t miss the paneer tikka, chilli chicken and chocolate naan) the other highlight has to be the wide choice of shisha, from apple to rose and mint.
140 Phra Athit Rd., 02-629-3207. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-11pm.
This tiny four-table eatery makes up for what it lacks in space with an unobstructed view of Phra Sumen Fort and some impressive dishes coming out of the tiny kitchen. The vibe is tres European, with a real Italian leaning in its range of pasta dishes (starting from B150). Still, this is no one trick pony: they offer daily specials and an impressive breakfast menu to boot. The restaurant also doubles as a café, and the outside table is a great spot for chilling out and people watching.
46 Khao San Rd., 081-820-2762, 081-438-4738. Open daily 3pm-1am.
With its hidden location in a small alley off the main strip, Hippie de Bar is a secret spot well worth discovering. Fronted by a stall selling second-hand paperbacks, this former antique home features a canopied outdoor area where young locals share a bottle of whiskey and tourists tackle a beer tower. Inside it’s lots of private nooks and retro furniture. Music-wise, there’s no irritating popsanova, but quality indie tunes and non-commercial hip-hop. The menu sees typical gab glaem consisting of deep-fried nibbles and various yam.
147 Soi Rambuttri, Khao San Rd., 02-281-2899. Open daily 3pm-1am. www.bkkbar.com
Bangkok Bar oozes that same retro-tinged, baan baan vibe of Hippie de Bar, but with a slightly more modern take on its décor (think lots of bare cement and a mini plunge pool). Tucked down an alley, this building with a courtyard spans three floors and features plenty of alfresco space and a rooftop where you can enjoy a shisha under the starry skies. A decent live band plays rolling local and international hits on the third floor.
95 Chakrapong Rd., Chanasongkram, 02-281-4445. Open daily 9pm-1am.
After undergoing a renovation mid last year, you might be surprised that this is still a bar and not a chandelier showroom, thanks to the multiple lights dripping from the ceiling. Despite the décor changes, this small spot has kept their crowd of Japanese backpackers and Thai creative types. More importantly, they’ve kept their killer and affordable cocktails and the giant bottles of Sangsom (this is Khao San, after all).
58/2 Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, 02-622-0282. Open daily 6pm-1am.
Despite its slightly off-beat location and distinctly dingy feel, Pranakorn Bar and Gallery has maintained its status as a favorite. Popular for its open-air rooftop bar, this four-story venue also offers quiet seating on the ground floor, an art gallery for Thai artists on the second and a pool table on the third. Grub options include all of your favorite gap glaem (B50-90) in addition to a small pasta-heavy Italian menu (B90-300). Singha is available on draft (pint B120/tower B500) and potent cocktails are B120.
Behind True Café, Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 089-497-8422. www.club-culture-bkk.com. Open Thu-Sun 7pm-2am.
To be honest, we say go while this place is still standing. Having moved from their former home in a traditional Thai theatre, Bangkok’s most cutting edge club has relocated to what can only be described as a crack den combined with a demolition site. It makes for a very different evening as you clamber up concrete steps and explore the myriad of dimly lit different rooms, each offering eclectic options from indie bands to thumping techno. Check their site for special events.
Phra Athit Rd., 02-282-2119. Open Tue-Sun 9am-10pm.
Set in a simple two-story shophouse, Roti-Mataba’s fame has now spread far and wide, which means it’s often packed and you may well have to wait for a table before you can sample its made-to-order Islamic fare. The crowds of students, office workers and night owls come for their namesake matabas (starting from B30) and a range of curries and roti with different fillings (from B15)—all made right in front of you in the open kitchen. Our favorites have to be the salad khaek (Middle Eastern salad, B60) and mataba with mixed filling (B60).
Phra Athit Rd. Open Tue-Sat 8am-2pm.
Just down the road from Roti Mataba and close to a small cafe called Artist, this little street stall only offers three choices: khao kruk kapi (rice with shrimp paste, sweet pork and mango), kao pad nam prik and kanom jeen souw nam (B30). The khao kruk kapi is, hands down, their premier dish as it blends a variety of tastes and textures complimented by their praiseworthy garlicky, peppery broth.
Tani Rd. Open daily 9am-10pm.
This place is easy to miss thanks to the surrounding hustle-bustle. It’s situated down a side alley just past the 7-11 on Tani Road, on the other side of Rambutri. Look out for sign in Thai only (non-readers can spot it from the red color and the crescent and star logo). They actually offer quite a bit of seating, but you first have to walk past their always-busy, street-side kitchen. The beef satay (B45), ox tail (B60) and chicken biryani (B40) are highlights, but even their beef noodle soup is super savory and chock-full with succulent chunks of beef.
For a more insightful take on this backpackers' mecca, read our interviews with the people who work and live in the neighbourhood:
A tattoo artist: Jirakit Chaisuriyawat
A police oficer: Jarawat Jonjob
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