A guide to the quiet life on Koh Kood
Escape the Andaman rainy season by heading East.
9 years ago
Thailand’s rainy season is soon to kick off. But head to the islands on the far east of the Gulf of Thailand and you can still find sun-drenched beaches till well into August. The country’s fourth largest island, Koh Kood, is far quieter and less developed than its better-known neighbor, Koh Chang. Roads are narrow and beaches short on facilities—the whole island doesn’t even have public electricity—but this just adds to its unspoiled charm. In fact many have dubbed it the Maldives of Thailand thanks to white, powdery sand, crystal-clear sea, pristine forest and inland waterfalls. Shops, restaurants and nightlife might be few and far between, but that’s why we love it, and there are plenty of other ways to spend your time.
Beach Hopping
View Point CafeThere are a bunch of beaches on the island but not all have public access or pristine sand. Your two best options are Klong Chao Beach and Klong Hin Beach, both of which have places to eat and drink. On Klong Chao, make your way to View Point Cafe (Had Klong Chao Road, 089-555-3598, www.fb.com/viewpointcafe) for Thai-Western meals like spaghetti and hor mok (steamed seafood curry cake, B100), as well as a highly recommended rich coconut ice cream with banana split (B100) and cocktails like mojito (B100)—best enjoyed with one of the most amazing sunset views on the island. Too bad that they annually close during rainy season (May-Nov). When night falls and you want some live music, Tawan Eco Bar (121/1 Moo 2, 098-337-4223, fb.com/tawankohkood) is about your only option. The owner of this earthy wooden hut, Jongkol Chompupetch, leads jam sessions every night with various visiting musicians. At Klong Hin Beach, take advantage of the long white stretch of sand during the day, then grab some drinks and a meal at Bombyx Beach Bar (Cham’s House hotel, 2 Moo 5, Klong Hin Beach, 082-878-2878, www.chamshouse.com), which serves international dishes and cocktails (starting at B260). They have a beachfront barbecue on Saturday night at B1,200 net per person. It’s also worth taking the 20-minute drive over to Ao Phrao beach, one of the longest stretches of sand on the southern part of the island.
Diving
Coral reef at Koh Kood
BB Divers (082-220-6002, bbdivers-koh-kood.com) is one of several operators who offer everything from snorkeling trips to PADI-certification. Highlight scuba spots include Hin Loy, Ao Yai, Koh Rang National Park and Koh Raet, where you stand the chance to see stingray, moray eels and abundant coral fish species. All these islands are within 20-30 minutes of Koh Kood. Dive trips at BB Divers start from B3,000 while snorkeling starts from B1,000. PADI courses in open water start from B14,500 for 3-4 days.
Fishermen’s Villages
There are two main fishing hubs on Koh Kood, one at Ao Yai in the south and another at Ao Salad in the northeast. The latter is also the island’s main pier, where you’ll find plenty of seafood restaurants and fishing tour operators. If you want a quieter atmosphere, Ao Yai features a beautiful bay where locals still very much live a traditional way of life. There’s only one restaurant, Chonticha Seafood (7 Moo 3, Ao Yai, 084-348-4992, www.fb.com/chonthichahouse), which doubles as a homestay.
Waterfalls
Though Klong Chao Waterfall is the island’s most well-known, there are actually three waterfalls on the island. Klong Chao and Hua Ngu are both inland, while Klong Yai Ki is over on the west coast. Klong Chao is the most spectacular, thanks to white rapids that flow down into a giant pool. It can be reached by car followed by a 500-meter hike. If you’re adventurous, take the 30-minute paddle from Klong Chao Beach to the pier near the waterfall. Trekking to Hua Ngu is more of a daytrip, but worth it for the giant Makka tree believed to be 500 years old.
Spa Retreats
Weave Spa
Though Koh Kood is blissfully free of the usual touristy massage places, there are a couple of beautiful spas to really spoil yourself. Weave Spa at Cham’s House hotel (2 Moo 5, Klong Hin Beach, 082-878-2878) offers unique treatments involving silk worm cocoons, rich in the anti-oxidant sericin. The hotel owners are descendants of the Cham people, long known for their silk-making skills, and the grandmother of the family was actually one of the first people to produce silk for Jim Thompson. For an even more upscale experience, the five-star Soneva Kiri is home to Six Senses Spa (110 Moo 4, 082-208-8888. www.soneva.com), where you’ll find a complete range of spa activities including Ayurvedic massage, yoga, detox and weight management programs.
Essentials
Where to stay
Cham’s House (082-878-2878, www.chamshouse.com) is a charming four-star resort with tropical-style beachfront rooms and villas ranging from B4,501 to B14,697 for a pool villa.
Soneva Kiri (082-208-8888, www.soneva.com) is the island’s most upscale resort, with rooms ranging from B22,300 (Bay View Pool Villa Suite) to B40,727 (Ocean Front Pool Villa).
How to get there
Plane: Flights from Bangkok to Trat take 45 minutes with Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com). They offer three flights daily at 8:30am, 11:40am and 5:10pm. Round-trip tickets start at B5,400. Do note that the transfer from Trat airport to the pier takes 45 minutes, which some hotels will arrange. The airport limo service offers private transfers at B1,800. Contact 082-222-5296.
Bus: It takes six hours from Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal at Ekkamai to Trat. From there you’ll need to grab a local songtaew to Laem Sork pier to get a boat to the island.
Boat: Traveling from Trat to Koh Kood is easy thanks to Boonsiri Speed Boat (www.boonsiriferry.com), which now offers 1.5-hour catamaran boat trips from Laem Sork to Koh Kood’s Ao Salad pier in. A one-way ticket is B500. They also offer van transfers from BTS Phaya Thai and Khao San Road. Including boat ticket, both cost B850.
On the island: There is no public transport. Rent a motorbike for B300 per day or the local taxis, which start at B500.
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