Explore all that nature has to offer in Chaiyaphum, when its famous flowers are in bloom. Photos by Nitipol Temprim.

Chaiyaphum has always been a mid-year highlight as it’s home to some of the most beautiful wild flower fields in Thailand. The dok krajiew (Siamese tulip) come into bloom from June to August as the rain clouds descend. But Chaiyaphum actually has many more natural wonders to discover, so might want to extend your visit to more than a day trip. 

Wild Animals

See this: The lushest forest in the upper Isaan region, Phu Khieo Wildlife Sanctuary is also ranked as one of the five best wildlife sanctuaries in Thailand. Sitting at 1,000 feet above sea level, Phu Khieo was once nearly destroyed by illegal logging while hunting of rare animals such as the Sumatran rhino was also rampant in the 1960s. Phu Khieo was finally declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1972 with the release of some wild deer, including barking deer and hog deer, as well as beautiful birds such as the Siamese Fireback. Some 40 years later, it’s become one of the richest natural parks in the Northeast, home to tigers, bears, elephants and more than 400 species of birds.
 
Do this: Absorb the wonderful nature with a trek. There’s currently only one four-kilometer route, with plans to add two more soon. Walking through flat land and a combination of dense wood and open fields, the trek takes only a couple of hours. Do be sure to stop by Thung Kamang field, which resembles a basin encircled by mountains. The best time to visit Tung Kamang is in the morning or evening when you can spot wild animals such as hog deer, which are very rare. 
 
Stay here: Trekking requires a ranger as you can get lost in the big jungle (seriously, last year a guy got lost here for 14 days), so book one 15-30 days in advance. The ranger fee is B500 while entrance is B20 for Thai nationals and B30 for a car. Contact 084-334-0043. If you need to stay overnight, there is also a wooden house to cater for 2-20 people, but you need to book in advance at the Department of National Parks, Wildlife and Plant Conservation 02-561-4292-3 ext.711 or www.dnp.go.th

Wild Stones

See this: The five light-gray rock pillars of Mo Hin Khao are renowned throughout Thailand. Tucked at the north-end of Phu Laenkha National Park, these rock formations are believed to be up to 175 million years old. There are also prehistoric rocks spread around three more zones: Hin Chedi, Hin Khlong Chang and Larn Hin Ton Sai. Do take a walk to Pha Hua Nak to see the wonderful view of Chaiyaphum’s plains and mountains after mountains. Pa Hin Ngam National Park is another fine option as it’s also home to thousands of weird-but-beautiful rocks covering around 1,000 rai of land. It’s also famous for its Siamese tulips, too.
 
Do this: Trekking around here is a feast for the imagination. Mo Hin Khao’s most magical moment comes at sunset or sunrise when the sun casts beautiful silhouettes over the pillars. On the way down from Mo Hin Khao is one of Isaan’s grandest waterfalls, Tad Tone Waterfall, which while relatively small in height is spread over some 50 meters. Another top spot is Lan Hin Ngam at Pa Hin Ngam National Park, which is wonderfully green come rainy season. Here, the giant rocks have signs that tell you what they resemble, from an elephant or lion to one that looks like the football World Cup trophy.
 
Stay here: At Mo Hin Khao (Phu Laenkha National Park 044-810-902 to 3), it’s better for you to camp so to catch the starry skies. There are no proper rooms up there, but you can bring your own tents to stay overnight by paying a B30 fee. Entry to Pa Hin Ngam National Park is B20 for Thais and B30 per car.

Wild Flowers

See this: Believe the hype. At only one time of the year, the dok krajiew are in full and beautiful bloom, attracting long tourist queues (beware the weekends). To avoid these, you might want to skip Pa Hin Ngam’s dok krajiew field, as it’s the stop of choice for day-trippers. If you have more time on your hands, head to Sai Thong National Park, which you can reach by 4WD truck, for a more tranquil experience.
 
Do this: Stay overnight at the top of Sai Thong National Park and wake up early to see the dok krajiew in the beautiful morning mist before the tourist swarms arrive. There are five dok krajiew fields up there, but the most visited are Thung Bua Sawan 1 and 2, the latter of which has two colors of flower. You can also get a panoramic view of Chaiyaphum, here. If you can handle heights, take a seat on Pha Ham Hod (“shrinking balls” cliff), a small flat rock that extends out from the mountain.
 
Stay here: At peak season, regular 4WD truck services take you to the top of Sai Thong National Park (089-282-3437, www.dnp.go.th) from 8am-4pm at B60 per person. If you want to stay, the office has rooms on offer at the foothill at B2,700 for nine people or B400 for three people with shared bathrooms. If you want to sleep on the peak, there are no rooms but you can borrow tents from the national park office (B225 and B60 for bedding) or bring your own (B30 per person). Be warned that there is no electricity up there. It’s B40 entrance and B30 for a car. Do check with the national park office when exactly the dok krajiew will be in full bloom.

Getting There

Car: Chaiyaphum is next to Nakhon Ratchasima and around 260-350km from Bangkok, depending on which district you are heading to. If you are following our itinerary, use Phahonyothin and Mittrapab roads, then turn left onto Route 201 at Dan Khun Thod intersection to get to Chaiyaphum’s provincial capital.
 
Bus: Get a bus at B209 through Chaiyaphum Tour (02-936-1977) from Mochit Bus Terminal to Thepsathit District. The trip takes around four hours to Thepsathit district, passing the entrance to Pa Hin Ngam National Park where you can jump off and hop on to the shuttle service there (B20, Sat-Sun only). Alternatively, you can go to Chaiyaphum city center with Sunbus (02-936-3993, www.sunbus.co.th) for B321 (VIP), then connect to the destination of your choice.

 

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