Next time you make the drive outside Bangkok for a Samut Prakan seafood feast, consider the new Moken Seafood (www.fb.com/moken126) on the quiet Bangphu beach.

The restaurant's name comes from the Andaman Sea’s Mergui Archipelago, as does the straw roof and bamboo architecture of the restaurant. Sit out on the terrace or inside on one of the two floors decorated with Moken accoutrements like spears and spirit faces.

The food’s traditional Thai, though, starting with appetizers like watermelon wedges dipped in dried fish and crispy shallots (B120). We recommend the mieng (betel leaf with roasted coconut shavings and tamarind paste, B120) and snapper smoked in coconut husk (B380) served with a spicy dressing. End with coconut ice-cream (B120) topped with Thai goodies.

Samut Prakan is about an hour's drive from Bangkok. 

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