Love them or hate them, the busy beaches and booming beach clubs of Surin and beyond are the first thing that come to mind when thinking about Phuket. But over on the remarkably unspoiled east coast, canny developers are beginning to take advantage of the breathtaking views out over the still blue waters and craggy outcrops of Phang Nga Bay (it’s not for nothing that the island’s top marinas are all on this side of the island) with some world-class resorts and now some serious dining destinations.

 

Among the most spectacular new spots is the development at Cape Yamu, a sliver of island halfway up the coast. Nahmyaa at the Point Yamu by COMO (225 Moo 7, Paklok, Talang, 076-360-100, www.comohotels.com/pointyamu), has a focus on spicy Southern Thai cooking and street food. It’s a casual space right by the poolside, enlivened with bright orange colors and a playful sea-inspired theme (fishscale walls, fish-shaped bowls, hanging lights like fish-eyes), though the cooking, under Executive Chef Dan Moran, previously of The Metropolitan, is seriously good and reassuringly spicy. Moran tells us he’s inspired by the depth of flavor of Southern Thai cooking, citing gaeng tai pla as an example. “It’s this incendiary fish innards curry that’s freaky on your first encounter, but it grows on you!” Among the highlights of our visit: spiced oxtail Wagyu soup, coconut smoked duck (both B300), a dark Southern curry with black kingfish (B600); a massaman lamb curry with sweet potato and cucumber (B800); and a humble but pretty wonderful stir-fried spinach in coconut milk (B400). There’s a strong signature cocktail list, too, with creations like The Fighting Duck (plum jam, ginger and hoisin, shaken with ruby port and reposado (barrel-aged) tequila, served over ice with cherry wood smoke), nicely judged to accompany the meal.

 

Nearby Breeze (081-271-2320, www.breezecapeyamu.com) is part of the same development, though unconnected to the hotel. Launched in 2012, this open-on-all-sides spot is still a relative newcomer, though their Sunday sharing brunches by the pool (12:30-4pm, B1,650 or B2,800 with free-flow drinks) have built up a deserved reputation on the island. But it’s what goes on in the kitchen that’s really interesting. Alongside a number of locals, many of the kitchen staff are here, effectively on stage, from Montreal’s acclaimed Toqué! restaurant. It’s an idea dreamed up by the latter’s former sous-chef and now Executive Chef here, Cheryl Johnson. The dinner menu changes every few days, but the focus is on fine dining, using local ingredients wherever possible. Expect dishes like duck confit with kale, baby corn, leeks, shitake and a honey glaze; and scallops with endives and radicchio flambéed with brandy, snowpeas, orange and mint (both B750). The in-house pastry chef knocks out some pretty special creations, too. You’ll need to watch out for mozzies if you’re dining there after dark, but the trade-off is widescreen views out over the water.

 

The east coast might be relatively under-developed, but boat owners have been wise to its charms for years, and a short drive down the coast from Yamu, tucked away on the quieter side of one of the more upmarket marinas, is Le Winch (Boat Lagoon Marina Moo 4, Thepkassattri Rd., Koh Kaew). It’s not new, but this 40-seat spot draws a loyal crowd, at least in part due to the fantastic outdoor deck right by the waterfront and facing the lighthouse; it’s perfect for daydreaming about that yacht you’ve always wanted to own. The food tends toward Gallic classics—steak tartare (B850), frog legs “en persillade” (B420), pork cordon bleu with Serrano ham and parmesan (B480)—and, if it’s more solid than spectacular, that’s made up for with charmingly personal service (it’s pretty much a one-man show for chef-proprietor Vincent Meuwly). The plat du jour is a great way to sample the best of what’s on offer, and the daily lunch sets are deservedly popular, too. Mains go for B520 and up.

 

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EASTSIDE RIDERS

Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com) offers nine flights daily to Phuket at fares starting from B6,730 for a round-trip. Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) offers eight flights daily at around B3,780 for a roundtrip. For a more budget option, check out AirAsia (www.airasia.com), which offers 12 flights daily at fares from as low as B2,173 for a round-trip.

 

Aside from Point Yamu (225 Moo 7, Paklok, Talang, 076-360-100, www.comohotels.com/pointyamu), another highly-regarded newcomer on the east coast is Regent Phuket Cape Panwa (02-653-0555, www. regenthotels.com/phuket), where rooms start from B4,680. For something more affordable, the very cool Phuket 346 in Phuket Town (9 Soi Rommanee, Talang Rd., 076-258-108; www.phuket346.com) offers Sino-Portugese charm, an on-site art gallery (the proprietor is also behind Bangkok’s beloved WTF) and rooms from just B858.