Le Banneton
EAT
Luang Prabang is quiet and low-key, which makes it a great spot to enjoy lots of long lunches and indulgent dinners. Start with the many cute French bakeries around town, most sporting colonial architecture. Le Banneton (Sisavang Vong Rd., across from Wat Sop Sickharam temple) has so many travelers lounging outside eating crusty baguettes you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in Paris in the summertime. The Lao coffee is thick, strong and, like Singapore Kopi, comes served black or with sweetened condensed milk (from 12,000 LAK($1.90)).
Obviously you need to sample some traditional Laotian food during your visit, which has similarities to both Thai and Chinese cuisine. Grab a spot on the wide wooden balcony at restaurant and cooking school Tamnak Lao (Sakkaline Rd., +8 56 7125-2525) and order up some say ua kway, a traditional spicy Lao buffalo sausage (35,000 LAK/$5.60) and ask for a pot of their jeowbong—an intense green chili dip that packs a serious punch. For dinner, head to relaxed, open-air Misaiphon Restaurant (Phu Vao Rd., +8 56 7121-2888) to catch a performance of traditional Laos dance and music. Try the whole fish with herbs (55,000 LAK ($8.80)), which is perfectly moist and cooked in a fragrant mix of peanuts, lime and lemongrass.
If you really want to push the boat out enjoy the town’s French cultural legacy with a meal at fine dining restaurant L’Eléphant (Vat Nong, +8 56 7125-2482). The setting is open, elegant and airy, the food rich and flavorsome and the wine list one of the most extensive in town. Try one of the set menus (from 127,000 LAK/$20) for items like coq au vin and tarte tartin with warm apple, mango and pineapple.
Tangor Bar and Lounge
DRINK
Luang Prabang is so chill it borders on sleepy so you’re hardest partying will probably be sipping a quiet beer. Your best bet is along Sisavang Vong Road near the centre of town. Tangor Bar and Lounge (Sisavang Vong Rd., +8 56 7126-0761) is a chill expat hangout with dark lighting, soft jazz and a wide veranda, while Coconut Garden (directly across the road) serves Lao food and cold drinks in an open courtyard space dotted with palm trees and white umbrellas. Just remember the local curfew means bars start winding down around 11pm and close at 11:30pm on the dot.
Tad Kuangsi waterfall
DO
Luang Prabang is set along the mighty Mekong River so make sure you get out on the water with a boat trip. A standard 2-hour tour costs US$40-50 ($52-65) (depending on your bargaining skills) and should take in the thousands of Buddha images stored in caves at Pak Ou. It also usually involves a stop at one of the small villages along the way, to visit local markets and sample some homemade whiskey.
Another worthwhile adventure is Tad Kuangsi waterfall around 30km south of Luang Prabang and (about US$20 ($25) return in a taxi). After a short walk through the forest you’ll hear the sound of crashing water before you see the breath-taking three-tiered falls. If you can spare the time bring swimmers and take a dip, the water is crystal clear and refreshing.
Those looking for souvenirs should head to the daily night markets from 5pm on Sisavang Vong Rd. A welcome departure from the usual tacky tourist tees and key rings, these higher-end markets have locals selling silver and beaded jewelry, patterned ceramic kitchenware, local art and ground Laos coffee beans to take home. There’s also a great range of hawkers selling everything from fresh juices and pancakes to barbecued meat skewers.
If some extra time presents itself, just wander the town’s picturesque streets, which snake between traditional wooden Lao homes, faded colonial guesthouses and golden temples. For a bird’s eye view climb to the top of Phousi Hill and its mountaintop temple. It’s a bit of a trek (comfy shoes and mosquito repellent are recommended) but the panoramic views make it a great spot for sunset.
Le Palais Juliana Hotel
STAY
We stayed at the swanky Le Palais Juliana Hotel (Chao Phetsalath, +8 56 7126-0417) a gorgeous resort-style property outside of town with rooms overlooking the pool and gardens. Prices start from US$189 per night ($243). For something more central, Villa Santi (Sakkarine Road, +8 56 7125-2157) is a beautiful colonial building with wide open rooms and shuttered windows in the heart of the temple district, making it a good spot to catch the early morning ritual of locals giving alms to the town's army of monks. Prices start from US$128 per night ($165).
Essentials
Getting there
Thai Airways flies to Luang Prabang via Bangkok six times a week (prices start at $573 for a return).
VISA
Singaporeans don’t need a visa for stays of up to 30 days. Citizens from most other countries can get a visa-on-arrival for US$30 (you’ll need a passport photo). Check the Visa HQ website for more details.
Currency
The official currency in Laos is the Laotian Kip (LAK) but the majority of shops and businesses will accept Thai Baht or US dollars.
Exchange rate
$1 = 6,231 LAK