No Cina story would be complete without a visit to the most Cina of Cina places, yep, you guessed it: Chinatown. The area is full of fascinating artifacts and delicious food that measures up to the best of them, even if it can be a little unsophisticated. So ignore the atas snobs who’ve never deigned to set foot there, thinking it’s only for grizzled old folks, dirty tramps and wide-eyed tourists seeking “exotic” sights, for they don’t know what they’re missing.

But warning: If you’re used to air-conditioned comfort, clean marble-tiled floors or even easily-accessible toilet facilities, you’re better off sheltering in one of the many shopping malls in town, for you can’t experience Chinatown if you’re not willing to get down and dirty a little. Toilets, if they can be found, usually charge for entry into their grubby interiors.

You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of small, independent shops selling all sorts of stuff. Those who lament the one-size-fits-all retail model of most local shopping malls will find this most refreshing. While the Chinatown Heritage Centre (48 Pagoda St., 6325-2878) is intended for visitors to the country, and together with shops like Sin Kee Arts & Crafts (30 & 39 Pagoda St., 6225-5806), blatantly panders to tourists with their kitschy knick-knacks, others do offer inspired and unique specialist curios that even locals will find worthy of a second look. The mother of all venues for Chinese products is Yue Hwa Chinese Products Pte Ltd (70 Eu Tong Sen St., 6538-4222), where you can satisfy your desire for all things Mandarin, like cough remedies and energy drinks at premium prices.

If you still can’t contain your hankering for familiar urbane trappings though, we recommend The Red Peach Gallery (68 Pagoda St., 6222-2215), one of the few places in the area that manages to look upmarket and chic while peddling sufficiently Chinese furnishings and paintings. We also like Jing-Si Books & Café (#01-12, 25 Trengganu St., 6324-6889), which is a Chinese version of Starbucks or Borders, where one can browse through its selection of literary tomes and stationary and sip on quality tea.

If all that conspicuous consumption wears you out, recharge your batteries at the large number of great eats that can be found. Tiong Bahru Boneless Hainanese Chicken Rice (56 Smith St.) is a branch of the popular $2 chicken rice at Tiong Bahru Market. It is always crowded during lunch time, so go early. Tiong Shian Eating House (#01-00 Ann Kway Association Building, 265 New Bridge Rd., 6221-1596) has perhaps the best porridge in Singapore, so if you don’t mind the dusty location next to the road, tuck into its delicious offerings. For dessert, 75 Glutinous Rice Ball Peanut Soup (Stall 4, Chinatown Food Street, Smith St.), serves up luscious tang yuan in with four different fillings: Red bean, sesame, yam and peanut—a favorite among most Chinese, for sure. Ji De Chi (#01-02, 46 Upp Cross St., 6226-6628) and Gong He Guan (28 Upp Cross St., 6223-0562) contribute to the sweet endings with their selections of hot and cold desserts ranging from $2-28. Not forgetting, of course, Lim Chee Guan (203 New Bridge Rd., 6227-8302 and #01-25 People’s Park Complex, 1 Park Rd.,6535-0927), which is a hit during Chinese New Year. While it’s not the festive season, you should try its bak kwa and see what the fuss is all about.

If one wants to buy art, one would normally go to a gallery, a dealer or an auction house. But these days, increasingly, one can also head to a restaurant or bistro. Because restaurants don’t just feed you—they have to excite your aesthetic senses as well. And with interiors being increasingly important to up an eatery’s style factor, some are going to the extent of selling the artwork right off their walls. Here are some artworks from restaurants that we admire.

The Song of India

Where is it?
33 Scotts Rd., 6836-0055.

What type of art?
Contemporary art from India and the fine artists from the region. The restaurant also serves as an exhibition space of sorts, where new artworks are featured every two to three months, in collaboration with local Indian art gallery Artmosaic.

Why do it?
An aspiration to provide “food for the stomach and soul” for their patrons. There’s also a focus on showcasing the more modern facets of Indian art, rather than just clichéd traditional images. The architectural beauty of the premises must have helped to inspire the artistic endeavors as well.

Does it fit in?
Don’t make the mistake of dressing down, for the experience here is more Bollywood glam rather than Little India casual. The posh, yet muted atmosphere of the conserved colonial bungalow foregrounds is important, as it makes the artworks stand out even more. You’ll get the feeling you’re in some art gallery or museum.

What’s the price for art?
Depending on the artist, it can be as low as $750 or as high as $20,000.

In a word:
Sophisticated.

The Wine Company

Where is it?
• The Wine Company@Dempsey
(Blk. 14-3, Dempsey Rd., 6479-9341) is their original retail outlet-cum-wine bar.
• The Wine Company@Evans
(Evans Lodge, 26 Evans Rd., 6732-1229), described as a “wine-centric restaurant.”
• Woods by the Wine Company
(Blk. 14-2 Dempsey Road, 6473-5428), a bungalow beside virgin forest, is an expansion of the Dempsey Road premises.

What type of art?
Each outlet features art from different backgrounds. The Dempsey outlet features Vietnamese art, while at Evans, the work of Mexican artist Rafael Cazares adorns the walls. Of greatest interest to proprietor Belinda Lim, though, is the work of artist and ex-NAFA instructor Low Kim Chit, displayed at Woods.

Why do it?
In a words from Lim: “Passion.” It’s clear that a lot of thought has been put into the artistic direction of the outlets. They have combined the fervor for both wine and art into a worthwhile experience for visitors, and it doesn’t hurt that it’s worth a pretty penny too. Well done.

Does it fit in?
Set up primarily to retail wine, the Dempsey outlet isn’t meant for visitors to linger. As such, the artworks there are not meant to create a sense of belonging. At Evans, though, the Art Nouveau style of the restaurant is complimented nicely by the colorful, flowing creations of Cazares. Woods is probably the most enchanting setting for art displays, with its cozy red interior and outdoor terrace set among forest lights, where Lim reserves her favorite artworks for display. Low Kim Chit’s elegant acrylic on rice paper creations are also perfectly showcased in this homely retreat.

What’s the price for art?
A piece can set you back at least $900. You may prefer to wait for Lim, an amateur painter herself, and her classmates to start selling their own works at cheaper rates in the future.

In a word:
Intoxicating.

Tavolo

Where is it?
#01-01, 5 Boon Tat St., 6423-1123.

What type of art?
Somewhat abstract but understated works by Dr Rajinder Singh, who’s “familiar with Jungian theories of the subconscious.” Like his previously exhibited works, these sketches and drawings are “free of the dictates of conscious manipulation”…hmm. Go figure.

Why do it?
It gives the diner a “refreshing” experience every visit, it seems. In other words, it encourages repeat business. The more altruistic reason given is that it’s also a venue for artists to showcase their work.

Does it fit in?
With the rather swanky yet warm look of the restaurant, it’s appropriate that the paintings aren’t too garish. Incomprehensible? That’s OK—all high art is supposed to be.

What’s the price for art?
The prices aren’t too prohibitive and range from about $400 to $1,500.

In a word:
Modish.

Rogues

Where is it?
#01-42/45 Market Street Car Park, 146 Market St., 6557-0030.

What type of art?
There is a vague intention to create some sort of “rogues’ gallery” as befits the restaurant’s name. However, the artwork at present is by young student artist Jay Freeman from Perth, whose Warhol-inspired paintings seem rather rudimentary, but were chosen for their “feminine sensual feel.” Other artists include Ronnie Wood of The Rolling Stones fame, for his roguish charm. In other words, there doesn’t seem to be any common theme, and there’s no telling what sort of artwork we might see in future.

Why do it?
Apparently, they just decided that “the windows were too bare,” and hit upon the idea.

Does it fit in?
Though the present artworks generally fit in with the elegant cosmopolitan décor, and are definitely an improvement on bare glass panels, it’s quite obvious that the setup was less than planned.

What’s the price for art?
A whopping $1,800 for a painting half the size of a door. There are plans for an upcoming silent auction though, so you could try your luck there.

In a word:
Neophyte.

Metropolis is the name of Mo Maurice Tan’s exhibition of artwork at Alliance Française de Singapour, and, as the name implies, the Singapore-born artist is famous for his modern urban cityscapes, depicted mostly through a bird’s eye-view. This time he explores the various modes of transport in cities, and attempts to weave together a common thread, possibly based upon the predictability of the urban landscape. We’re sure those who brave the morning commute to work every morning will identify with that.

So you’re obviously a city boy. Why?
I like the edge that comes with city living—the din, stress, pollution, etc.

What’s the inspiration for your art?
Anything a great city can offer me—from its skyline and architecture, to its people.

Speaking of which, there aren’t many people in your artworks, although cities are full of them. Are you just not a people person?
It’s more because I really would like to have the city all to myself.

Would you say then that the most crowded places are actually the loneliest places?
Crowded places are the most anonymous places, not the loneliest.

Your architectural background shows in the architectural detail of your work. Why didn’t you become an architect?
Architects work in a collective and socially demanding environment; I can only paint when I am alone.

We know peak-hour traffic in Paris is hell. So did you base your latest exhibition upon your transportation woes?
Peak-hour traffic in big cities across the world is hell for commuters, but not for the observer. I particularly enjoy sitting amid stressed out city dwellers hurrying from home to work and back again.

Having lived and toured all the great cities of the world, which city is your favorite?
If I had to choose only one, it has to be New York. Tokyo and Paris are close behind, with Istanbul a not very distant fourth.

OK, so we’ve all seen (and dig) iconic international albums like The Beatles’ Abbey Road, Joy Division’s Unknown Pleasures, Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon, Nirvana’s Nevermind, and Madonna’s True Blue, and how they brilliantly reflect the band/artiste’s musical directions. But do our local album covers fare as well? We assess Ronin’s Do or Die, Electrico’s Hip City , Concave Scream’s Horizons and The Observatory’s Blank Walls to find out about if they’re just as good.

Ronin

Album Title: Do Or Die
Album cover designed by: Levan Wee (lead singer of Ronin) and Dominic Fernandez, with photos by Yazer Aziz.
Cover Concept: Aiming for a vintage feel, the color scheme and lettering are straight out of the good old days. And get this—the dollar signs on the packaging can be scratched off like a scratch-and-win card to reveal the full glory of the cleavage. It’s a smart way to hide the good stuff.
Music: Straightforward rock music from the ’60s and ’70s.
Does it fit the theme?: Resoundingly so. What better way to showcase ’60s rock ’n’ roll than with a (almost) nude silhouette? Nice.
What we think: The combination of retro and sexy is a hit. Sex sells, and what would sell more than a lasciviously posed, bare female torso on the cover, strategically placed dollar signs the only thing protecting her modesty? Legendary status imminent.

Concave Scream

Album Title: Horizons
Album cover designed by: Band members Pann Lim, Sean Lam, Andy Yang and Dean Aziz, who also happen to be advertising designers by day.
Cover Concept: “A living and breathing art piece,” according to Pann. The packaging, together with the CD itself, functions as a working calendar with movable strips, symbolizing the flow of time and hope for the future. Curiously, the liner notes are also designed to be gradually rubbed away with use, “to denote time’s inexorable march.”
Music: Described as alt-rock, you wouldn’t be able to tell the music genre from the deceptively simple cover.
Does it fit the theme?: Much effort has been put in to ensure that we get the temporal theme, and yes, we do.
What we think: A fascinating concept and admirable effort from the band members. Clever thought has been put into the packaging, although it just doesn’t look rock-ish enough. Perhaps too arty for its own good.

Electrico

Album Title: Hip City
Album cover designed by: Visual artist and graphic designer Jaz Loh
Cover Concept: The fusion of local structures and buildings with “New Wave colors,” inspired by the band’s new electronic sound, as described by the band’s drummer Desmond Goh—is pretty good. The album’s title refers to Singapore as a hip city, hence the album’s hip styling.
Music: Besides electronica, pop, rock, alternative, jazz and bossa nova influences are also cited by the band, making their musical leanings just as colorful as their album cover.
Does it fit the theme?: Well yes, if we can take Loh’s word for it, that “everything was a deconstruction of literal metaphors from their lyrics.”
What we think: The flashy colors with a Pop Art sensibility stands out enough to attract the casual browser. Our only complain is that it’s not too different from the many other equally shiny album covers out there competing for our attention.

The Observatory

Album Title: Blank Walls
Album cover designed by: Yuen Chee Wai, with illustrations by Andy Yang
Cover Concept: Yuen conceptualized a moody vision of “turmoil that lies beneath the seemingly calm surface,” reflecting the band’s musicality, and “the repulsive and flavorless state of affairs we commune in.” He also admits to feeling “wretched” while designing this. Heavy stuff.
Music: Experimental, deep and abstract.
Does it fit the theme?: Far from being tumultuous, it’s actually quite beautiful, in a gothic sort of way. There’s obviously more to it than random pretty curves, judging from the surreal nature of florid orbs with wings cavorting around—but maybe we’re not deep enough to get it.
What we think: Chic and arty rather than cool, this should appeal to those who appreciate understated style. Quite beautiful, if not for its slight affectedness.

Worst Local Album Covers Ever

Taufik / Blessings
Toothpaste commercial gone wrong. Don’t lie on the grass if you want to keep your shiny, clean teeth.

Rauzan Rahman / My First Storybook
A primary school yearbook project? How old is the singer anyway? 12?

Cccrush / Feel the Move
This cheaply-styled EP cover from shortlived group Cccrush should be cccrushed, alright.

Hady Mirza / Hady Mirza
Booooooooring.

What’s a nice girl from a proper family like you doing prancing around with two guys wearing almost nothing?
Correction, darling. Rich, not proper. And I don’t just prance, I dance circles around both of them.

How much actual swimming do you get done during your lessons?
Not much. By the time I’m done with all that flirting, I don’t really get to swim much—if you know what I mean.

What do you hope to get out of your lessons?
Let’s see, if I can master the “freestyle” and the “breaststroke,” I’d be one happy little girl. And I’m already half way there.

Don’t you think that all this parading in skimpy swimwear is a bit too Baywatch?
Well, for one, there aren’t any double D-cups. And we are just that little bit wittier.

You’re rich, pretty and smart—we’re sure you have lots of guys at your disposal. Why go for a dull, aimless fellow with a dead-end job?
Darling, have you actually seen the guy? Besides, he is actually nice.

Now we get serious: Do you think your family problems are part of the reason for your urge to seek solace in meaningless material and physical pleasures?
Yes. Anything else about my troubled psyche that you would like to delve into?

Would you agree that sex sells?
It’s relative. You can’t exactly use sex to sell baby powder, can you? Don’t even go there!

Finally, where can we get that darling red-hot bikini that you’re wearing?
I chanced upon it while shopping at Bods.Bodyknits. But don’t you dare even think of buying it.