When it comes to the fashion and beauty industry, traditional craftmanship the new black. Meet the young design and business minds revitalizing their decades-old family companies.

Ngoh Tailor & Boutique

 
Jiraphon “Ngu” Jiraphonsakul, 35 and Jiraroj “Pro” Jiraphonsakul,32, had no plans to take over their family’s 41-year-old tailor’s shop on Rama I Road until their father passed away. But the brothers have now stood in to not only continue his legacy, but secure customers for the future, too.
 
 
How is running this business without the support of your father?
Ngu: It’s not easy at all. I started from zero as I knew nothing about how to make a suit. I used to work as a tour guide while Pro is a graphic designer. Our dad told us to do something else, he saw it as a dying business ever since the ’97 crash. But the old tailors and customers give me the drive to keep doing it.
 
There’s a current trend towards tailor- made pieces. Why do you think that is?
Ngu: It’s satisfying. Customers come to us because ready-to-wear clothes don’t match their needs. They want something unique that reflects their personality. Tailors can also act as advisers. We can change the pattern; the cloth is for one person only.
Pro: We live in a mass-production society, whether it’s music or clothes. But there’s a new generation who are looking back to traditional craftsmanship and learning about the skill involved.
 
Who is your customer base?
Pro: We have both old and young people now. Old customers still come to cut or fix their suit while younger customers come for new products. They want us to cut short pants that suit their daily life, or even clothes for riding their bike.
 
 
How do you blend an old business wih fresh ideas?
Pro: I want to change the perception that “old” means outdated. I used to think we should modernize but actually, what’s important is to keep our character as a casual, family-style business where customers can walk in and feel at ease.
 
66 Rama I Rd., Phathumwan, 083-018-1808, 02-214-1311. FB: ngohtailor

31 Thanwa

Boonyanuch “Kae” Vitayasamrit, 29, founded women’s leather handbag 31 Thanwa back in late 2011. She’s the third generation behind an 80-year-old shoe factory and has adapted that know-how into producing contemporary handbags with high-end branding. We speak to her, together with her father, Pairoj Vitayasamrit, 64.
 
Pairoj, were you expected to inherit this business?
Pairoj: Back in my time, that was the way with family businesses. Actually, the shoe factory is something I was born into. I never thought about doing anything else as I grew up. Now it’s been 30 years since my father passed away and I continue the business. For my children, it’s a different case. I’ve never forced them to take care of the factory.
 
 
What’s the idea behind 31 Thanwa?
Kae: I graduated from the faculty of Architecture at Chulalongkorn University, and was working as an interior designer for two years until I had the idea for 31 Thanwa. Though our family’s leatherwear-making know-how is not directly for bags, it can easily be adapted. Also, our family always handled just production, while others did the design and branding, so I stepped in and joined the dots. I do the design and my brothers help out with marketing.
 
How do you find working in a family business?
Kae: It can be quite sensitive, but then all the feedback you receive comes from people who really care and wish only good things for you. During my research and development process, my dad commented that the details were messy and unprofessional, that the handles were not strong enough or even that the bags were ugly and no one would buy them. Those comments helped me refine the product.
 
 
Pairoj, are you happy about Kae’s changes to the businesss?
Pairoj: My children are now fully in charge, which I see as a good opportunity to invent a new line. I suffered when the global market was invaded by products made in China. We can’t compete with them at mass production, so I lost many customers. But now, some of my old customers are actually returning because they appreciate the difference in quality. Whether our factory makes shoes or handbags, craftsmanship and quality are key to success.
2/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., 081-711-8031. BTS Phrom Phong www.fb.com/31ThanwaShop

  

Pin and Tux

This new brand is currently only in the soft-launch phase, selling through www.pinandtux.com, in advance of the official store opening later in the year. Its co-founder, Sarit “James” Chokchainirand, 39, comes from the family behind Supinda boutique, a women’s tailoring business established in 1971. He’s partnered with Natcha “Pong” Kanchanachitra, 28, a young designer who’s now using his family’s manufacturing facilities to create fashionable ready-to-wear items.
 
How was Supinda boutique doing in terms of business after over 40 years?
James: Actually, in 40 years, we’ve never been through any difficult periods. It’s true that people back in the day tended to have more dresses tailor-made while this generation is all about ready-to-wear, but we’re lucky to have customers who’ve remained loyal to this shop. The old customers still use our service, so our orders remain the same. The problem is we don’t have any new customers.
 
 
Are you expected to take over the family business?
James: My mother has never expected me or my sisters to carry on the business; she’s happy for us all to go into business and banking careers. Tailoring and fashion are never things we paid much attention to, but you do absorb certain things when you’re born into it.
 
How did Pin & Tux get started?
James: As my mom gets older, she wants to take a step back. I was looking at our business and thinking of ways to carry on. We have a lot of good tailors and it would be a shame to stop going. We created Pin & Tux to connect our quality craftsmanship with ready-made, fashionable design.
 
 
How is Pin & Tux adapting Supinda boutique?
Natcha: Through traditional tailoring used to produce modern ready-towear items. The fashion scene is now dominated by fast fashion. People tend to focus less on quality but on fancy design that lasts for a month. Fashion items you find in the market are all factory-produced—the quality is much worse than a tailoring boutique. We want to produce items that last for years and are both timeless and contemporary.
Supinda Boutique, 1/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-258-8620 Pin & Tux. Available via www.pinandtux.com, 093-660-0655

Srichand Powder

The 66-year-old Thai cosmetics brand Srichand powder is well known in Thailand for its old-school beauty products. But eight years ago, Rawit Hanutsaha, 35, stepped in to his family business and modernized it with bold new branding. It worked. Within three months of the relaunch, his brand saw 100-percent sales growth. He shares what it takes for a successful product makeover.
 
What brought you back to the family business?
I lived a fast-pace banker lifestyle until one day I happened to be at my grandfather’s factory and saw the old-school way everything operated. Coming from an international finance firm, it got on my nerves. There was not a computer in sight; everything was done with pen and paper. It made me worry that, if I didn’t step in to modernize things, my grandfather’s business would be lost forever. Even my first client said it was a miracle that our brand still exists.
 
 
Why did you go for such a drastic rebrand?
I wanted to make a cool Thai brand out of my grandfather’s legacy. I think our country is pretty resourceful and Thai designers are in high demand right now. The big shopping malls are putting Thai products on sale quite often. We should be proud of our heritage products. We used to rely on old customers from the Southern and Northeastern parts of Thailand, but now our product sits on the shelf in Watsons. We’re also the only cosmetic company with a Thai name on sale at Eve & Boy, Siam Square.
 
Did everyone support your idea?
A lot of people told me to change the name. But I didn’t agree. I think our Thai name makes us unique. Everything at Eve & Boy has a Japanese or Korean name we’re the only Thai-sounding product. The name Srichand might remind people of their old grandmother’s favorite beauty powder, but I personally believe that our brand knows Thai women’s skin best.
 
 
What have you learned from the rebranding process?
New business owners should hold on to their dream no matter what happens. It’s the easiest thing to forget when you have to overcome hard times. Things will fall apart and it’s only you who can piece them back together. Sometimes, success and failure are just one step away from each other. Be fearless, keep moving forward.
Available at Eve & Boy nationwide. Try Siam Square, 186 Soi Siam Square 1, 02-252-7566. BTS Siam

Ballet Shoes

Around for more than 60 years, Ballet Shoes is one of Bangkok’s oldest shoe shops. What started as a family store in Ratchaprasong has gradually developed into a tailor-made shoe company catering to a diverse range of customers, though ballet shoes are still their specialty. Ponchanok Kongdechakul, 33, Pimpika Kongdechakul, 32, and Pasini Kongdechakul, 30, are the third generation of the family to work in the business. We spoke to the three sisters along with their parents, Pongdej, 62, and Jariya Kongdechakul, 60, and grandmother, Kimsong Saejia, 85.
 
Why did you decide to go into the family business?
Ponchanok: Our grandma never wanted anyone to do this business, even our parents. She still thinks that we’d be better off taking salaried jobs than managing our own business. But when I graduated from economics school, I knew I didn’t want to get a regular day job. I’ve grown up with this shoe business, so it’s instinctive to work here. So I’ve opened a shop under the same name selling the same designs but in quirkier colors than just black, blue, navy or white. It’s funny, we often find that the parents of our new customers are actually our old customers.
 
 
What was the business like when you first started?
Kimsong: My husband and his father used their skills as shoemakers to make products for the leading malls of 60 years ago like Daimaru at Ratchaprasong Junction. Back then, the land which CentralWorld is on was just a swamp. We finally bought two shophouses and opened the Ballet Shoes shop in 1959. When the lease ran out, that land became Gaysorn Plaza.
Pongdej: Shoemakers in the old days were much more skilled than today. We used to have 50 shoemakers who could produce everything from ballet shoes to boots. Now we only have 12 craftsmen left. The new generation doesn’t have the patience to practice and become a craftsman.
 
 
What are the pros and cons of running a family business?
Ponchanok: I love the fast decision-making. We can make a design and send it to our factory and sell it in two weeks.
Pimpika: The con is management, which can be hard to change.
 
Do you plan to expand to other products?
Ponchanok: After our shop at Siam Theater burned down in 2010, I realized that this was an opportunity to expand. We aim to increase production and create a new line of bags, too.
1/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-2464. BTS Siam. www.fb.com/BalletShoes
 

 

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