When Nicolas Reynard left Ma Du Zi (9/1 Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-615-6400. BTS Asok), and the elegant marble and leather dining space switched from being called La Truffe to Ma Du Zi Restaurant by Yuya, we immediately assumed we’d be shortchanged. We were very wrong. Almost six months after Yuya Okuda’s arrival, we finally got to taste the Japanese chef’s food. It’s very recognizably French, only very light, very subtle, and with seamless exotic touches. For example, you’d never really notice the thin strips of puffer fish brightening your wagyu tartar, or that the scallops with caviar are on a bed of roots puree, not a boring (or comforting as people like to call it) mash. Yuya has some serious cred, too, with two years in a Relais & Chateaux hotel restaurant in France and a stint at a Joel Robuchon restaurant in Japan. Best of all, the set menus—B1,500, B1,800 and B2,500—are net, so that Ma Du Zi, despite its no walk-ins policy is finally priced within reach of mortals. Ma Du Zi Restaurant by Yuya, 9/1 Rathcadaphisek Rd., 02-615-6400. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit.