Yogurt snow and smoke bubbles.

 

Open for less than a year, Jharokha by Indus has been making big waves in a short amount of time, cracking Top Tables and bringing the city’s Indian food game up a notch—and that’s saying something. Their new dishes and cocktails are aiming for a creative approach to dishes you might already know. 
 
After a quick and exquisitely plated amuse bouche, we move on to their new Chutneys set, a collection of green chilli chutney, aamshoto, and roasted tomato. The chilli chutney is the most familiar of the three, but the cheesy aamshoto was a favorite. It’s a photogenic little dish, served in a little basket, but it’s what you eat it with that grabs the attention: adorable baby naan and fried lotus root. There’s a lot of lotus root, so get this one to share. 
 
 
For an appetizer, the dahi ke kebab is a twist on the veggie North Indian kebabs, inspired by Rajasthan polo clubs. The surprise here is that the exterior is wrapped in a twirling blanket of kataifi, a pastry-like dough, with a parsley cream. But hold off for your first bite, because the staff will be around with a bucket to ladle on some steaming frozen yogurt snow. Honestly, it’s not sweet, but this dish hits enough notes to be a dessert. 
 
Moving onto the mains, the Shorshe Narkol Chingri, commonly a Bengali dish, comes with three charcoal smoked tiger prawns. But hold up, because the curry is coming, a yellow chilli with coconut and spicy tomato sauce drizzled over the dish. But the pride of the mains is the laal maas, an Australian lamb shank in a broth of mathania chillies, garlic and yogurt. It falls off the bone, and be sure to get some of their naan to scoop up the rest of that sauce. 
 
 
The dessert, though, is a favorite from the old menu, the Chococherry Delight, featuring chocolate from Pondecherry (cause everyone loves pun) and cherries from Himachal Pradesh. It’s a smooth, slightly bitter dessert tempered with the sweet smack of cherries. 
 
Launching their new cocktail menu in January, the smoke bubble is still a popular get for social media, so you can opt for the Shamshare negroni which is extremely aromatic and spirit forward. For something a little lighter, the Colonel's Saddle, a lassi milk punch dark rum drink topped with frozen yogurt with strong cardamom and coconut notes. 
 
 
 
Jharokha, found on the second floor of the Erawan mall, opens to a photogenic bar packed to the ceiling with quality booze, and guests are led through into a dark, atmospheric dining area juxtaposing heavy design with light touches. Get a seat by the window for a view of the BTS if you’re going after sundown. 
 
2/F, Erawan Bangkok Building, 494, Ploenchit Rd., 082-997-3399, Open daily 12–10 pm.
 
 
 
 
 
 

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