The place: Toro’s blend of modern and rustic elements comes straight from the New York branch of this American tapas bar. Hanging greens drape down faux windows and the bar, while wooden floors and furniture break up the bare concrete ceilings and dangling lamps.
The chef: Toro’s masterminds are celebrity chefs Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette, both past winners of the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef, Northeast award—the Oscars of the culinary world. Here in Bangkok, chef Zach Watkins, who has worked alongside them for seven years, mans the kitchen.
The food: The US branches’ modern tapas concept adapts itself to suit local ingredients and palates. That means seared foie gras (B490) served with roselle sauce, shimeji mushroom and mangosteen, and hanger steak (filete a la plancha, B420) alongside caramelized red onion and green curry butter. Other standout offerings include asado de huesos (bone marrow and oxtail marmalade with radish citrus salad and cocoa nib, B450), ensalada de sandia (watermelon salad with baby anchovies, pomelo and cotija cheese, B220) and setas y huevo (San Sebastian-style wild mushrooms with wild herbs and farm egg, B250). Also, don’t miss the churros (B220)—perfectly crisp yet moist inside. Pair your dinner with the refreshing watermelon sangria (B310) or Spanish wine poured straight from the porron.
2/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7790
The place: Bangkok’s Spanish institution goes for old-school sophistication—chandeliers, plush upholstery and a private room lined with wine bottles. There’s a big open-plan kitchen with a long counter for diners to watch the cooking.
The chef: Madrid-born chef Pedro Carrillo comes entirely from a hotel restaurant background, starting in his hometown before moving to Paris, the US, Cuba, Benin and Myanmar.
The food: Tortilla omelet (B120), gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns, B350), gazpacho (chilled Spanish soup, B190) and paella (from B750) highlight the menu, along with creations including tuna tartare, served with Malaga-style almond gazpacho and tuna-stuffed roasted piquillo pepper. Pullman’s Vinoteca wine cellar covers the drink side of the place, stocking a list of Spanish wine and other international bottles.
2/F, Pullman Grande Sukhumvit, 30 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-204-4158. BTS Asok
The place: Osito trades off the contagious, fun vibes of its neighbor, La Monita Mexican restaurant, while also bringing its own dose of informal, after-work style. The casual place features a semi-open kitchen, where you can get a peek of the crew at work as well as a bar counter where they stock a solid lineup of gin.
The chef: German chef Daniel Bucher started off his cooking career as a caterer for art and music festivals. He was invited to Plaza Athenee for a pop-up dinner event and not long after became head chef of its French restaurant, Reflexions. He joined the Osito team and led the reopening last year.
The food: While sticking to Spanish flavors, the chef plays around with almost-entirely local products. The menu features his takes on traditional pulpo a la gallega (boiled octopus on potato slices, B320), tortilla espanola (Spanish omelet, B75), chicken croqueta (deep-fried balls of pulled chicken confit with pig blood pudding, B140) and a variety of rotating pintxos (pieces of breat with toppings, B320/6 pieces). Our fave: his pressed sandwich with cobra goat cheese and chorizo (B220).
Mahatun Plaza, 888/23-24 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-651-4399. BTS Phloen Chit
The place: A modern, geometric mood dominates this space at the foot of Athenee Tower. It’s upscale, luxurious, sexy and pricey-looking, but the whole vibe is more laidback sophistication than stiff fine dining. There’s also a separate bar to one side called Cava, while the wide terrace promises to be one of Wireless’s nicest alfresco spots once temperatures cool down.
The chef: Hailing from Extremadura, chef Pedro Luis Rodriguez Serrano heads the kitchen on-site. The chef has worked with both modern and traditional kitchens in star-studded restaurants in Spain like Atrio, Azurmendi and Chaflan.
The food: The restaurant takes on the traditional end of Spanish cuisine and presents it in a contemporary style. The menu features classics like Iberico ham croquettes (B480), grilled octopus tentacles (B460) served with beans in Castilian stew, baked fish fillet with potatoes and almonds (B680) and, the highlight, Josper-grilled, Segovian-style suckling pig (B3,900 for a half pig), imported from Spain. Other dishes go the modern route, like olive spheres (B80) and deconstructed Spanish omelet (B380) served in the form of cream and espuma in a martini glass. Wine by the glass starts at B260.
Athenee Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02-168-8100. BTS Phloen Chit
The place: Nestled up on the 54th floor of Centara Grand, this restaurant offers the best views of the lot. Those panoramic cityscapes are even better thanks to the open windows (nighttime only) and breeze allowed through. The bar stands around a vast, two-story-tall walk-in wine cellar, while for dinner you can choose between more formal seating beside the cold tapas station and a terrace where they grill the meat.
The chef: Spanish national Joan Tanya Dot was cooking at Pullman Grande’s Tapas Y Vino before here, and draws on vast experience at posts in the UK, Cayman Island and in Spain.
The food: Some 40-odd hot and cold tapas dominate the menu, alongside a selection of very fancy cold cuts like Joselito ham (self-described as the best Iberian ham in the world and recipient of some serious foodie praise too, B790-1,290). But the really exciting stuff is the Josper oven-roasted Cochinillo suckling pig (B1,490). There’s also a top-drawer list of Spanish reds and whites, with a total 36 wines offered by the glass in both 9cl and 15cl pours (priced from B170-820). And a menu of fruit-heavy cocktails at B390 each.
54/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 02-100-6255. BTS Siam/Chit Lom
The place: The work of Catalonia’s most famous son, architect Antoni Gaudi, inspires the facade of this two-story restaurant. Its floor-to-ceiling windows are framed by organic, cave-like pillars, while inside you’ll find a space that’s somewhat more ordinary, with little to lighten the mood beyond colorful mosaic tiles and a hand-painted mural of Barcelona on one wall.
The chef: Catalan chef Marc Font Garriga (formerly of Hola, the Spanish restaurant at Eight Thonglor) comes from a restaurant family. After cooking in Bangkok for a few years, he decided to partner with friends and open the restaurant.
The food: Typical Spanish and French-influenced Catalan-style dishes. The laminated menu placemats include all the Spanish classics like croquettes (B80), Spanish omelet (B100) and garlic prawns (B200). A highlight here is the hearty paella (from B460). Traditional Catalan dishes include the fideua (noodle paella, B460/690) and mandonguilles (pork meatballs with squid, B130). For drinks, house wine starts at just B60 (Australian Shiraz and Chardonnay) while sangria is B200/500 per jar.
Le Premier 1 Condominium, Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-661-7410
BK ASKS
What do you love about Spanish cuisine?
Joan Tanya Dot, Head chef of Uno Mas
“It’s a style of food everybody can enjoy. The overall flavor is not to aggressive in the mouth—not excessively spicy or sweet. And it’s very straightforward. We don’t have a lot of sauces and garnishes. The focus is on the produce.”
Zach Watkins, Chef de Cuisine of Toro
“There’s no certain format to what can be called tapas. I can be creative with something I see at the market and people will easily order it to share. I enjoy that a lot.”
Pedro Carrillo, Executive chef of Tapas Y Vino
“The way you share the food. It’s more of a lifestyle than a cuisine. When you go out with friends to a bar and have some tapas with beer. I like that atmosphere.”