Essentials: spring water mountainous hot climate river lake sea/ocean forest
Wagyu is just a breed, that’s why you can get it from places other than Japan, such as Australia. Kobe is a place, which makes some of the best wagyu beef in the world. Now there are actually four breeds of wagyu—although even in Japan kuroge washu, or black hair cattle, accounts for 90% of what gets eaten. (The other breeds are red hair, shorthorn and polled horn.) More importantly, what really distinguishes one chunk of wagyu from another is where it was raised, as the land, weather, feed and local farming traditions can greatly influence the meat’s flavor. Here are the regions you should be keeping an eye out for, and why chefs in Bangkok love them so much.
Miyazaki (Kyushu Island, Kagoshima Prefecture)
“Even though wagyu beef was originally from Hyogo [Kobe] and Omi prefectures, they don’t compare with the cattle raised in Miyazaki. Miyazaki wagyu are now regarded as the finest Japanese cows and have won various industry awards including the most honored ‘National Wagyu Award’ by the Wagyu Registry Association. The unique characteristics are the cherry red color, tender texture and great dense meat flavors. The snowflake-like fat is evenly distributed and produces a non-greasy flavor,” says Chef Sethasak Anavachasuk of Prime, Millennium Hilton, Charoennakorn Rd., 02-442-2000. Open daily 6:30-11pm. Available in steaks at B3,999 for rib eye (180 grams) or B3,999 for strip loin (180 grams).
Kagoshima (Kyushu Island, Kagoshima Prefecture)
“I find that Kagoshima beef is similar to Kobe beef, which is one of the best. But since Kagoshima is known for its flavorful pigs, the cows are actually cheaper for the quality you get, which is very tender, fragrant and, again, on a par with Kobe cattle,” says Pakpoom Nukulchitkit of Kaze Fresh Japanese Restaurant, 318 Thonglor Soi 10, 02-392-3544. Open daily noon-2pm, 5-10:30pm. Available in sushi at B450 and steak at B1,400 for 150 grams.
Omi (Honshu Island, Shiga Prefecture)
“The uniqueness of Omi beef is that they are fed naturally and allowed to walk around outdoors, which results in an earthy taste and smell. The marbled texture and softness of the beef is comparable with famous names like Kobe or Matsusaka. But an Omi wet-aged fillet just tastes unique: earthy and rich, with a steely minerality that reminds me of grass-fed beef and white truffles. Its texture is like butter. You could, quite literally, cut it with a fork,” says Thirawat Panjasophkul of Teien Sushi Bar, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-5757. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm. Available in sushi at B340 and with rice at B1,400 for 100 grams.
“The most beautiful marbling out there. It’s got the great taste and the fat is good for your health. The cattle is raised in the warmer weather, large fields, windy places to keep the cows happy, with some brushing thrown in—what people often call massaging the cows. The fascinating thing about the beef in Japan is that every province has its own technique and ratios for what goes into the feed for the cow. So it all depends on how you like your beef,” says Chavayos Rattakul of Tenyuu Grand, Sathorn Rd., 02-632-1777. Open daily 11:30am-10pm. Available in sushi at B1,200.
Iwate (Honshu Island, Iwate Prefecture)
“Iwate works best for shabu-shabu as it’s got a great balance of meat and fat. Here, we use A4-A5 grade. The taste of the beef is still amazing while the fat is not too greasy when you cook it in the hot pot,” says Chavayos Rattakul of Yashin, Nihonmura Mall, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-6868, 087-508-9395. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 7pm-2am. Available at B1,590 (150 grams) for a shabu/suki set.
Matsusaka (Honshu Island, Mie Prefecture)
“Matsusaka beef is raised in a quiet and peaceful atmosphere with fresh air. They are fed with plenty of fiber as well as beer to increase their appetites at least once a week. They’re provided with intense care and receive regular massages for relaxation. It is considered to be The King of Wagyu as it has such mellow flavor and melts in the mouth at every bite,” says Kitikorn Penrote of Eat Meat Sweet, 99/11-12 Langsuan Balcony Bldg., Soi Langsuan, 02-684-5944. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10pm. Available in strip loin steak at B6,500 (250 grams).
Saga (Kyushu Island, Saga Prefecture)
“This beef is really one of a kind. Raised in a serene environment with very pure water, it is a very popular and well-known premium beef in Japan. [Our] Saga beef is of the highest quality (A5) and has beautiful marbling,” says Chef Norio Nomoto of Nami, JW Marriott, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-656-7700. BTS Nana. Available in set menu at B3,290-8,900.