We take a culinary tour of the sub-continent to discover a diverse range of regional dishes.

West Indian

The food: The most popular West Indian cuisine comes from Goa, which draws on Portuguese, Hindu and Muslim influences. When the Portuguese colonized the region some 400-500 years ago, they introduced a number of spices to the local food, the most important being chili. This legacy can be seen in a dish like vindaloo, which is derived from the Portugese carne de vinha d’ alhos (pork with garlic and wine), a fiery and flavorful affair. Also, due to its coastal location, the cuisine here features lots of fish and coconuts.
Have it at: Gaggan (68/1 Langsuan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6-11pm) has an unusual, modern take on this curry. Here, the sous-vide Iberian pork comes in a vindaloo reduction. It won’t taste particularly like what you’d get in India, but you can be assured of a very flavorful dish. Otherwise, try Bawarchi (InterContinental, Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0102-3. Open daily 11am-midnight) for the traditional version of the dish.

East Indian

The food: The cuisine, derived from the Chinese community who lived in Kolkata, in East India, has spread throughout the world. The cooking techniques are similar to those used by the Chinese but with more spices added. Familiar dishes include fish in honey, chicken momo (chicken dumpling) and honey pepper cottage cheese, which have become favorites worldwide. The region is also famous for its seafood curries and grows lots of fruits and rice.
Have it at: Dragon Express (68 Sukhumvit Soi 21 [Asoke], 02-204-0588-9. www.dragonxpress.com. Open daily 11am-12pm) has all the aforementioned dishes (B109-B129) with delivery available until midnight. As for the curries, try the Bengali doi maach at Indus (71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900. Open daily daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-11pm).

South Indian

The food: First and foremost, this is the land of the vegetarian. There’s also a really big focus on rice, which forms the basis of almost everything, including the popular papadum (flatbread) and rasam (spice soup and tomato). As with other regions, spices play a big part here, particularly in Hyderabadi cuisine, where the biryani is a bit spicier than elsewhere.
Have it at: Rang Mahal (26/F, Rembrandt, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm), whose biryani dish is made the original way—coating the meat (they also have the vegetarian version) in many homemade spices before putting it on a layer of rice and steaming it in a really tight clay pot. Also, drop by Shri Ganesha (392/23-24 Sukhumvit Soi 20/1, 02-258-1425. Open daily 10am-10pm) for the dahi vada (lentil donuts dunked in spiced yogurt) which are a great light, yet complex, appetizer and the wonderfully crispy rava masala dosa (oniony rice crepe with spicy potatoes). Both are made to order and come with the fiery Southern dish sambhar (lentil soup with vegetables) and chutneys.

North Indian

The food: Now the most ubiquitous style of Indian cookering found globally. The food here is characterized by its richness and use of dairy—both milk and cheese befitting their cold winters. Popular examples include chaat (tangy vegetarian salads involving tamarind, yogurt and cilantro chutneys) and rogan josh (mutton cooked with thin dark sauces).
Have it at: Saras (15 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-401-8484. www.saras.co.th. Open daily 11am-11pm) serves a typical Punjabi farmer’s dish, sarson ka saag (mustard leaves and spices) with makki ki roti (corn flour flatbread). Another top choice for Northern cuisine is Hazara (29 Sukhumvit Soi 38, 02-713-6049. www.facebars.com. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm); try their tender and complex rogan josh amid the stunning décor.

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