Siang Ki Khao Tom Pla

For almost a hundred years, Siang Ki has built a reputation for its scrumptious khao tom pla (B250). Although located in a hidden part of Yaowarat, it still attracts large crowds hankering for a taste of this delicious fish dish. The owners claim that their rice soup recipe originated from ancient China where it was a preserve of the wealthy. The porridge is made from fresh pla jaramed (pomfret fish) with condiments like fresh oyster, fish maw and bateng (fried streaky pork with soy sauce). The tenderness and freshness of the fish cooked in the old-school style is so impressive that you’ll want to make the trek out here time and time again.
54 Soi Bamrungrat, Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-3600. Open daily 4pm-10pm (except last Sunday of every month)

Khao Tom Pla Suan Ruen

For two generations now, Suan Ruen has been serving tasty fare like spicy fish salad, fish tomyam and, of course, khao tom pla krapong (sea bass, B60). The dish here is cooked with tender fresh chunks of fish, the mellow soup brimming with dried shrimp and fried sliced fish tofu and bean curd sauce. For a balanced meal, the recommended accompaniment is the boiled seafood selections (B100) with spicy seafood dipping sauce.
Near Dusit Post office, Ratchasima Rd. (near Yaek Ruamjit), 02-241-7763, 081-924-8004. Open daily 5pm-midnight

Hor Khao Tom Pla

The reason there’s so many good khao tom pla joints in this area is probably because the Saphan Pla (fish market) is right nearby. The owner of Hor Khao Tom Pla (aka Khao Tom Gim Po), Krit Panyawisutthikul, told us that he got his recipe from his father and it’s been in the family for more than 70 years. The soup might not be as powerful as others, but the fish (tao toey, seabass, and grouper) are certainly well selected and the powerful sauce takes it to another level. The stock is made from pork bone, fish and shrimp head resulting in a delicious natural sweetness with no added MSG. Be prepared to battle it out for a parking spot with the endless stream of Mercedes dropping off hisos in the know to eat here.
1897 Charoenkrung Soi 73, 02-675-2598, 084-010-3424. Open daily 6pm-midnight

Hia Waan

Located on the busy Chan Road, Hia Wann might not be a centuries-old institution but nothing beats the size of the seafood it has to offer. The fish, shrimp and squid—they all seem to come from another planet they’re so huge, meaning you certainly get your money’s worth. With their khao tom, the broth is well-balanced, slightly peppery and with no hint of fishy smell. The must-have, though? It might seem strange to say it, but the tomyam is the real star dish here—super yummy.
Chan Rd. (in front of Soi 32/2), 02-211-0829. Open daily 5pm-midnight

Asia Khao Tom Pla

Even when you hear of something tasty across the river, it can still take some convincing to go check it out. Rest assured, though, the khao tom here is worth the effort. The dish can be had with seabass and grouper (B70), both delightfully chunky and naturally sweet. The bean curd sauce is amazingly well-prepared with no hint of fake lime juice, while the chili adds a nice edge. Do order the yam talay (seafood in spicy salad, B120), too, as it comes with very tasty bateng (fried streaky pork with soy sauce).
Suksawat Soi 1/1, 089-141-7485. Open daily 5pm-1am

Q&A: Jannipa ‘Houy’ Chokevichitkul, 66, owner of Hia Waan, talks about her khao tom pla

Where did you get the recipe?
It’s our home recipe. Usually we make khao tom pla at home every weekend. We’re one big family that love to cook and eat together. I sold ped palo (braised duck) for about 60 years before I decided to do this. I just got bored doing the duck and it’s a dish that people would eat mostly on festivals but the khao tom pla is an everyday dish.

Don’t you regret not selling ped palo anymore?
I loved it. It was yummy and our customers still ask about it. But you know, people can always start something new. And the khao tom pla business is going great. I enjoy what I do. I love what I cook. And my family supports me a lot in everything.

What makes your khao tom pla delicious?
Maybe the broth. We use the pork and chicken bone together with the Chinese parsley and garlic and boil it from 9am to 5pm to get the full flavor from it. Always cook daily, otherwise, it won’t be as good.

What about the ingredients?
They’re the most important thing. We get most of the fish from Mahachai market from a supplier. But the fish needs to be fresh and weigh roughly 10-14 kilos.