Charoen Saeng Silom

This place has been a hit for around 50 years and is now run by the second generation of the same family. Their recipe, with its generous use of spices, is a big factor in drawing customers back time and time again, and so is the size of the pig legs. As if the taste was not proof enough of the place’s legendary status, they have also received many awards, like the Shell Shuan Shim for their juicy pork (B50) that’s soaked in perfumed spices and carries a slightly burnt aroma. You should also try the kaki (pig’s feet) and entrails, too—properly cleaned and totally succulent.
492/6 Charoenkrung Soi 49, Charoenkrung Rd., 02-234-8036, 02-234-4602. Open daily 8:30am-1:30pm

Bangwa

Whenever you need to cross the river, make sure you plan a stop here where they serve tender, melt-in-the-mouth pork (B30) which comes with a smokier flavor than you find elsewhere. Not only is the pork a treat, the rice is also perfectly cooked. Don’t forget to wash all that fat down with a bowl of steamy bamboo soup (B20).
In front of Petchkasem Soi 46/2. Petchkasem Rd., 081-617-1178. Open daily 7am-4pm

Hia O

When it comes to khao kha moo, it’s hard to look further than the Yaowarat area. Hia O boasts about their secret Teochew recipe, the result being a darker colored soup. The owner refuses to tell us what he puts in it but, needless to say, the soup is very flavorful. A top bowl (B35) is assured when you break down the fatty kaki (B50) with some vinegar to take the edge off the sourness.
Next to Wat Mangkorn, Mangkorn Rd., 02-215-4172. Open daily 6am-3:30pm

Ieng Nanglerng

Another kha moo specialist who’s been in the game for more than 60 years, Ieng is favored by the bureaucrats who work nearby. And with good reason, as the pork is definitely among the juiciest around, the soup is rich and tasty and the pickled cabbage makes for a perfect accompaniment.
Nang Lerng Market, Nakornsawan Rd., 081-513-1638. Open daily 7:30am-1:30pm

Kha Moo Tee Saam

Naturally, we love the fact that they’re open 24 hours. Also known as Kha Moo Siri Rama, the place used to open at 3am because it needed so much time to braise the meat—just look at the long line of pots boiling the pigs. It’s obvious to see why it’s a must-visit on any eating trek of Yaowarat, with the slow-cooked pork (B35) so tender and flavorful.
400 meters from Wat Mangkorn, Charoenkrung Rd., 083-082-9036. Open daily 24 hrs

Q&A: Bancha Banjerdprayoon, owner of Charoen Saeng Silom

Where did you learn to make kha moo?
My father moved here from China and he started the place with his Teochew recipe, which I then developed further. It’s been 50 years. And now, I’m so old, my kids are learning to do it.

What are the important factors in good kha moo?
The pig leg needs to be under two kilograms. Otherwise, bigger pigs will be too sticky no matter how long we boil them. The quality of the pig is also important. In the past, it wasn’t easy to find the good ones. Then we’d grill the pigs from early morning, soak them in water and take out some fat. We would finish around 9-10pm before braising them overnight. Today, I use the ones from CP and Betagro—we can tell them what we want and they will cut and grill them for us.

What about the seasoning?
There are more than 20 kinds of spices I use and I’m the only one who is capable of doing it. It’s not easy. You need to know what to put in first. Some seasonings have a strong smell, some are really light. You can’t explain that to people. It’s all in the senses.

Have you ever thought about expanding?
We won’t do franchises. It’s a matter of quality. I want to cook with my own hands because there will be no standards if I ask others to do it. We’ll lose credibility, too.

What’s your favorite part?
I like kaki (pig’s feet) the most. It’s the tenderest part of the pig.