First, a few things to keep in mind...

1. Holes

An open and irregular hole structure. This is the easiest way to spot artisanal bread, as industrially processed loaves have small, regular holes.

2. Texture

Creamy and elastic. The elasticity is another distinguishing feature when compared to industrial-made breads.

3. Crust

The crust is dark and blistered. It’s flavor is naturally caramelized and should have a real crisp to it. This is bread, not toast.

4. Flavor

Acidic and sweet. Even though there’s no sugar added, the long fermentation process will convert starch to sugars in the dough, which provides the natural sweetness but also the slightly acidic taste.

5. Durability

A good artisanal bread can be kept for 2-3 days. We recommend wrapping it in a linen cloth and keeping it in a wooden box at room temperature. Inside plastic, it might go moldy. You can also place it in a plastic bag and freeze it, then defrost and reheat it in a normal oven for 2-3 minutes.

How to Make Artisanal Bread

Q&A: Michael Conkey of Conkey’s

What is artisanal bread?
It’s essentially bread that is handcrafted using traditional techniques. In our bakery, almost everything is handmade. The results are an improved flavor, aroma and texture. The way we do things is almost impossible in an industrial bakery. Artisanal methods give you beautiful quality bread, not just a loaf of chemicals and air. They are much more satisfying to eat and a lot healthier.

Is artisanal food becoming more popular?
Yes, both Thais and foreigners are going back to traditional methods of food production for better quality and flavor. About half of our customers are Thai and Japanese. They are surprised when they realize that the bread improves over a couple of days, it doesn’t just go stale. We don’t make bread for everyone. For some people, it’s just food. For some, it’s almost an obsession.

What’s “good” bread?
It is good both fresh and toasted. When it is toasted, it gives a satisfying crunch, which fills your head with noisy pleasures. It is like good sex: you are satisfied but you’ll want more soon.

Q&A: Jean Philippe Arnaud Landry of Maison Jean Philippe

How did you learn to make bread?
I’ve been lucky enough to work alongside a fifth generation Maitre Artisan Boulanger (Master Craftsmen Baker) which is the highest grade of baker in France, bestowed under law by the French government.

What is artisanal bread?
To me, using the status of “artisan” requires extensive training and specialization working under a Maitre Artisan for several years. This knowledge is almost unspoken and passed down from generation to generation. You won’t find this on YouTube. When I bake, every step is guided by the feelings. This will be revealed in the colors, taste and texture, which makes every bread unique.

What are the difficulties baking these?
In Thailand, the climate is completely opposite to where I worked before. I had to adapt and learn new things in the process here. I even went so far as to custom-build my oven.

Where to Buy Artisanal Breads in Bangkok

Maison Jean Philippe, 086-273-4302, 083-111-5557. tiny.cc/uocwlw
Conkey’s, 089-166-6080. www.facebook.com/conkeysbakery