Biscotti (Four Seasons Hotel, 155 Rachadamri Rd., 02-126-8866), is a bit of an institution. "The first of the new Italians," one food writer called it, meaning that you didn't have to wear a jacket to eat in its gorgeous Tony Chi decor, even back when it opened in 1998. Hence the hubbub over its recent change of chefs. Our first taste of newcomer Daniele Cason's cuisine indicates he's going to play it safe, though, so that tycoons and their families can continue to count on their favorites. There's a marathon 7-course set (B2,900), but you can always go for lunch (B690 or B740 for 2 or 3 courses) or a big plate of homemade ravioli filled with porcini mushrooms and ricotta cheese (B520)—our favorite. Here, we speak with Cason:

What’s some produce that’s going to be in season this spring that you’re particularly excited about?
I have to say the pencil asparagus, which is in season now both here in Thailand and Italy. It has a great flavor and gives a crunchy touch to the dishes.

Biscotti is a long-standing restaurant with a lot of regulars. Do
you feel like you can express yourself freely in a restaurant where the guests have such precise expectations?
The guests at Biscotti are truly knowledgeable about Italian cuisine and I feel that they will have a genuine curiosity towards my new creations.

What’s the dish that you’re adding to the menu (or plan to add the
menu) that you’re most excited about?
I would say the home smoked lobster risotto. That dish always brings me a great recognition from the guests.

What would you say is the restaurant’s signature dish? Will it evolve with you as the chef or remain perfectly identical?
The best seller at the restaurant is still the focaccia mascarpone and will remain so. It's a simple, yet sophisticated, creation.

If I’m not mistaken, your last job was in Cairo, which is in a Mediterranean country. How easy, or how difficult, are you finding working with local produce from Thailand? Are there some things that you don’t think are worth importing because they taste just fine here?
Markets in Thailand have a lot of the same products available in Italy. The overall quality is pretty good, but, of course, there are some exceptions such as cheeses, cold cuts and some kind of tomato.

What’s your favorite food or dish when you’re dining out?
Chargrilled ribeye  and, of course, spaghetti!