We sample a potent rosé from southern France

The folks: The estate in southern France is owned by the Sumeire family and goes back three generations. Currently under the direction of Regine Sumeire, it’s a feel good tale of family dedication, particularly in a region whose wines are not nearly as famous as Bordeaux or Champagne. What’s more, they are certified “bio,” Euro-speak for organic, which always makes us feel all warm and fuzzy.

The grape: This rosé is a blend of no less than eight varietals, including familiar ones like Cabernet Sauvignon (4%) and very local ones like Mourvedre (5%). The two most prominent grapes are Grenache (29%) which, despite being low in acid and tannins, lends berry flavors and high alcohol, and Cinsault (pronounced “san-so,” 38%), also rich in berry flavors.

The label: This wine has an appellation from Cotes de Provence, a region in southern France famous for its rosés, so they know what they’re doing. Further evidence that these guys are serious is found on the back of the bottle which contains notes on how the wine was made—very rustically, from the sound of it, with hand-picked grapes that are lightly pressed (which ensures the nicest, most aromatic juices).

The look: Very intriguing, clear but with an intense color that’s hard to pin down: salmon pink with copper hints. If you’re a newcomer to rosé, you’ll feel a little seduced by the lovely color.

The smell: Lots of booze on the nose. You might think of rosés as wimpy wines, but this one packs a very respectable 13.5% alcohol level. Some unexpectedly warm honey and melon aromas, which is a nice surprise since one might anticipate little but berries. It’s pretty fruity, though—that is, not much herb or spice.

The sip: Medium-bodied and subtle, semi-dry, hints of melon, honey and strawberries, with a mineral and ever so slight herbal note at the end and a long finish. Nice.

The food: Perfect for an aperitif, but as a delicate pink wine, it’s a good choice for your romantic dinner as well. Have it with some simple, unadorned seafood like salmon.

The damage: B995 from Italasia Showroom, G/F All Seasons Place, CRC Building, Wireless Rd., 02-685-3862. Mrigaa Sethi

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