Whether it’s pizza, pasta, or provolone, we’ve all had Italian food in some form or another. As one of the most popular cuisines in the world, it's surprising that few people other than discerning foodies and true-blooded Italians really know the difference between regional cuisines found in Italy. Much like how in Thailand, khao soi is distinctively Northern and khao niew is distinctively Southern, regional cuisines in Italy differ because of geographic makeup, influences from neighboring countries and traditions.

The country of Italy as we know it has only been around since its recent unification in 1861—the Italian language spoken today not in common use until after World War II. Consequently, it still remains a colorful patchwork of diversity that spans 20 regions. The country’s varying geography provides a broad range of climates and environments which have flourished into autonomous cultures with distinct cuisines.

Clear differences between Northern and Southern Italian cuisine are in the type of fat and style of pasta used in their cooking. “The Northwest uses more butter and cream because of its influence from France. The Northeast is poorer and uses more polenta, soft cheeses like ricotta and more seafood from the coast. In the mountain regions, the influences are from Austria and Germany and they have dishes such as gnocchi, canneloni, speck and cold cuts,” says Chef Gianni Favro of Gianni Ristorante.

The Central region is known for some of the best meats, fish and vegetables due to its ideal environment of low mountains, rich farming tradition and proximity to the coast. Though Central Italian fare appears simple, the flavors are bold. “All the bread there is made without salt because the taste of the food is very strong,” says Chef Angelo Rottoli of Beccofino.

In Southern Italy, the food is lighter, spicier and healthier due to its Mediterranean influences. Olive oil is used instead of butter; tomatoes, buffalo mozzerella and seafood also characterize the region. “Mediterreanean food has a lot of vegetables, seafood and cured meats such as pork. Not so much red meat is used,” says Chef Marco Cammarata of Bel Guardo.

The A Tavola! Italian Food Festival, which runs June 2-11, is a great chance to experience the different flavors of Italy’s regional foods. Bangkok’s top Italian chefs will be representing different regions with special menus at their restaurants using freshly imported ingredients from Italy. The price per head is B1,200++ at all participating restataurants and includes a glass of sparkling wine and a cup of coffee. We spoke with each chef to find out what diners can expect and shouldn’t miss during the festival.

NORTH

Chef Antonio Facchinetti

Region: Lombardy/Emilia Romagna
What to expect: Imported olive oil from Liguria, porcini mushrooms, Taleggio cheese, salami di Felino.
Don’t miss: Polenta negra (polenta made with mushroom, chestnut flour and buckwheat) with porcini mushrooms, caso‘la (stew of cabbage, pork ribs and sausage), la torta sbrisolona (a dry crumbly cake made from polenta, flour, butter and eggs), pasta asoncelli (pasta with pork, a local cheese, butter and sage).
La Villa—131 Thonglor Soi 9 (Paidee-Madee), 02-712-9991. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6:30-11:30pm

Chef Gianmaria Zanotti

Region: Piedmont/Liguria
What to expect: Assorted seasonal vegetables, Marzolino truffle, white asparagus, pigeon and Castelmagno cheese.
Don’t miss: Fish and meat main courses, risotto, tagliolini and fresh mushrooms and bonet (a traditional Piedmont dessert made with amaretto cookies, almond and caramel).
Zanotti—21/2 Soi Saladeang, 02-636-0002. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-10:30pm.

Chef Gianni Favro

Region: Tri-Veneto
What to expect: Hams and cold cuts from San Daniele and Sauris, “cheese from the mountains, crabs and shellfish from the coast,” rare olive oil from Carso, dry Borlotti beans, yellow and white polenta, dry baccala (dried salted cod) and meats from the Pianura Padana.
Don’t miss: Sopa coada (baked pigeon, bread and cheese soup), risotto with baby artichoke, baccala alla vicentina (dried salted cod cooked in milk and served with polenta) and brodetto (seafood soup).
Gianni Ristorante­­­­­­­—34/1 Soi Tonson, 02-252-1619. Open daily noon-2pm, 6-10pm.

CENTRAL

Chef Andreas Bonifacio

Region: Emilia Romanga, Marche, Abruzzo
What to expect: Olives from Marche, Parmesan and Parma ham from Emilia Romanga.
Don’t miss: Olive ascolane (stuffed olives that are breaded and deep fried), tortellini with Parma ham and Scamorza cheese sauce.
Fallabella—100 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-5131. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 6-11pm.

Chef Angelo Rottoli

Region: Tuscany
What to expect: Appetizers of Tuscan salami, lardo collanata (seasoned and aged pork fat), pasta papparadelle (a wide fettuccine) and white duck from Tuscany.
Don’t miss: Pan forte biscuits served with coffee, Peccorino Tuscano.
Beccofino—146 Thonglor Soi 4, 02-393-1881. Open daily 11:30am –2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

SOUTH

Chef Fabio Colautti

Region: Campania/Calabria
What to expect: Spicy fresh Italian sausage, buffalo mozzerella and spicy salami from Calabria.
Dishes not to miss: Tuna with capsicum and cherry tomatoes with fennel ragu, spicy chocolate tart.
Giusto—16 Soi Sukhumvit 23. 02-258-4321. Open daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-11pm. Wine bar: 5:30-midnight.

Chef Frederik Farina

Region: Sicily
What to expect: Cured leg of wild Nebrodi pork, cured ham, Ragusano, Peccorino Calcagno and Primosale Peccorrino, capers from Salina and Sicilian olive oil.
Don’t miss: Pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines, spring fennel saffron), Sicilian cheese plate with white bread.
Spasso—494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daliy noon-2pm, 6-11pm.

Chef Giovanni Speciale

Region: Puglia and Molise
What to expect: Burrata cheese (a cheese made from “pulled” skin of stretched mozzerella) and homemade pasta made from durum wheat flour.
Don’t miss: Orecchiette with cime de rabe (small ear­ shaped pasta with broccoli rabe, garlic, chili and anchovies), cavatelli (small shell pasta), grilled mixed Mediterrean seafood, smoked swordfish.
Biscotti—155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-251-6127. Open daily 6-10:30pm.

Chef Marco Cammarata

Region: Calabria
What to expect: Fresh anchovies, swordfish, red onions from Tropea, grey oyster mushrooms.
Don’t miss: Anchovies in scapece (fresh anchovies marinated in salt, sugar and lemon) with fennel and blood orange salad, Licurdia red onion soup with spicy crostini, swordfish grilled with stir-fried capsicum and potatoes with black olive salsa. 
Bel Guardo—G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 11:30am-11pm. n