What challenges norms while celebrating tradition? The answer may be found in Bangkok’s The Riddler, a sophisticated Japanese gastronomic restaurant and wine bar that invites diners on a culinary journey, guided by an enigmatic head chef.

The chef boasts a career spanning over three decades and a resume packed with culinary awards. At The Riddler, this passion for exploration manifests in a menu that pushes the boundaries of traditional Japanese cuisine.

The dishes are meant to be somewhat hard to define or explain, kind of like a riddle wrapped in an enigma—hence the name. The chef takes inspiration from his global experiences, reimagining classic dishes and reinterpreting them through a uniquely Japanese lens. The result? A menu that's both playful and profound.

Cracking the code

From The Riddler’s extensive menu, one would be most enticed to begin their culinary exploration with the gambas. A playful homage to the Spanish classic, chef Isao replaces the traditional Spanish shrimp with their Japanese cousin, the aka ebi. Bathed in olive oil and an assortment of herbs, the dish evokes the familiar flavors of the original, yet the delicate sweetness of the aka ebi adds a subtle twist.

The asari soup is a testament to chef Isao's artful transformation. The dish begins with a simple presentation of fresh asari (AKA Manila) clams. As you delve deeper, tororo seaweed, wakame jelly, and dashi yuzu caviar mingle with the clams for an intricate play of textures and flavors. Then, the riddle unfolds—a steaming cup of dashi soup is poured, transforming the dish into a comforting asari chowder. The final flourish comes in the form of decadent bacon cream.

A twist on seared cow

For the true carnivore, the tomahawk is the primal king. This Australian wagyu boasts impressive rib meat, generously marbled with fatty inserts and rich beef tendon. Dry-aged for at least three days, it intensifies in flavor before being expertly grilled over charcoal to a juicy medium-rare. Served tableside for a touch of theatricality, the tomahawk is carved and presented with creamy mashed potatoes, a medley of grilled vegetables, and a special sauce for dipping.

If you seek a lighter option, the Gindara could be the answer. Pan-seared snowfish, known for its delicate sweetness and firm texture, boasts a crispy skin that yields to a cloud-like interior. The star of the show, however, is the yuzu butter sauce, its citrusy tang beautifully complemented by the richness of olive paste. Roasted zucchini and an olive crumble add textural interplay, while the dish is completed with the refreshing simplicity of grilled zucchini.

For a truly unique experience, the cold pasta offers a playful twist on the classic Japanese cold soba. The al dente cappellini noodles are tossed in a wakame gel and truffle paste. Thinly sliced Red Sea bream, marinated in kombu seaweed for an extra depth of flavor, sits atop the noodles. Dashi and truffle oil add a touch of luxury, while the final flourish – a garnish of Aka Ebi – ties the dish back to the playful nod to Spanish cuisine seen in the Gambas.

Throughout the meal, diners may be seduced by The Riddler's impressive wine list. Over 200 meticulously curated labels, ranging from revered Old World classics to bold New World innovations, grace the menu. Each glass is presented on exquisite Riedel crystal, ensuring that every sip is an experience in itself.

Worth deciphering

Chef Isao San's playful reimaginings of classic dishes are a testament to his culinary prowess and his insatiable curiosity. Each bite is an invitation to decipher the riddle, to appreciate the subtle nuances and unexpected twists.

Whether you’re a seasoned gourmand or curious first-timer, The Riddler offers a truly unique journey. With its impeccable service, thoughtfully curated wine list, and a menu that's both playful and profound, it’s clear that the answer is always found on the plate (or in the Riedel crystal) at The Riddler. You can make a reservation at The Riddler here.