Ruam Chit Road is the backbone of Sriyan, one of Bangkok's oldest and most vibrant communities. The neighborhood's many sois are often lined on both sides with classic street food and shop-house restaurants, making it one of the city's most lively food destinations. To get there, take the BTS to Saphan Taksin station and hop on the orange-flag boat (B15) along the Chao Phraya River. From Payap Pier, it's just a seven-minute walk (east) to the heart of the neighborhood.
Yentafo Hong Tae
From generation to generation, this shop has served up classic yentafo for more than 50 years. It's a meal fit for a Hong Tae (emperor); an enormous bowl of yentafo (B40) full of fish balls, fried taro, tofu, crispy squid and, the highlight, homemade sausage stuffed with egg—a unique derivation from all the other recipes.
Dining tip: Dip the crispy fish-skins in yentafo soup for even more flavor.
439 Ruam Chit Rd, 02-669-0110. Open Tue-Sun 8am-3pm
Guayjab lhung-Wang
At "just" 20 years and counting, this Old Town restaurant is a relative newcomer to Sriyan. It has become the talk of the town since though, with its signature Chinese boiled pasta square soup (B60) flavored with palo broth and crispy pork belly.
Dining tip: Also get the dry rice noodle rolls (B60), a perfect mix of mushroom sauce and mellow Chinese marinated pork.
660/4 Nakhon Ratchasima Rd., 094-323-4555. Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm
Khanom Baa Bin Maprao Namhom, at Sriyan
Follow the sweet and rich scents floating through Sriyan and they will likely lead you to a line of people gathering around this stall. The coconut macarons (B25/box), aka khanom babin, are sticky inside and crunchy on the outside with a mellow flavor. They are baked fresh every day, and among the most sought-after Thai desserts in the neighborhood.
Dining tip: Reservations are required for high-end khanom (snacks).
812/8 Thanon Nakhon Chaisi Rd., 065-724-2365. Open Tue, Thu, Sat-Sun 6am-6pm
Lookchin Sriyan
This is the 50th anniversary of the one and only look-chin nam-sai (meatballs in clear broth) of Sriyan. The restaurant originally opened in 1969, and as the name suggests their "meatballs with broth" beef noodles (B53) are a classic. Locals know it as the only true place to get guaytiew look chin. The meatballs here are tender and chewy, mixed with very little flour, and blend perfectly with the well-seasoned broth.
Dining tip: Order two bowls.
151/1 Nakornchaisri Rd., 02-243-3537. Open daily 7am-4pm
Moo Satay Nai-Ar
Now open for more than 50 years, this food stall is today helmed by third-generation owners—who guarantee its classic tastes. The pork satay (B60) is tender and juicy with a light charcoal flavor and curry-spice notes. Dipping it in the homemade peanut sauce and arjard (cucumber, shallot and chili peppers in vinegar) gives it more volume.
Dining tip: Order some toast and lay it all together as a satay sandwich.
778 Samsen Rd, 081-490-0609. Open Mon-Sun 7am-2pm
Kai Kaew Guaytiew Ped
This must-visit restaurant has experimented with its duck noodle recipe for almost 30 years. After much trial and error, they developed their signature dish: duck stewed for three months, with palo spices and herbs, on top of noodles imported from Chantaburi (B60).
Dining tip: don’t forget to order duck entrails (from B50) and pork dumplings (B50) as side dishes.
91 Ruam Chit Rd., 081-913-4173. Open Mon-Sun 7:30am-4pm
Kaeng Pa Sriyan
This Sriyan neighborhood landmark has specialized in curry for almost 40 years. The most intense curry here is the daring signature kaeng pa neua sup (spicy minced beef curry, B120), which includes spices and herbs such as finger root and kaffir lime leafs, and plentiful vegetables, like bamboo shoots, cow-peas and eggplant.
Dining tip: Spicing here is ferocious so don't forget extra rice.
2 Thanon Nakhon Chaisi Rd., 02-241-4216. Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm