If the rich, mirror-finish jus that new Tables Grill head chef Hans Zahner spoons over your roasted lamb tenderloin is anything to go by, then his tenure at the time-proven Hyatt Erawan steakhouse should be a good one.

In 2016, French-born Zahner led the team at the Peninsula Shanghai’s Sir Elly’s restaurant to its first Michelin star. Now in Bangkok, he’s hoping to do the same with a new six-course tasting menu (B2,900) that’s all Kristal Caviar, jellies, carrot “mille-feuille” and Gillardieu oysters.

It’s a bold move for a restaurant that till now’s been all about USDA prime Angus and a killer lobster bisque—don’t worry, those still remain—and one that’ll have to win over a loyal hi-so following if it’s to succeed.

Time will tell if Tables regulars prefer Zahner’s elegant, understated, just-that-little-bit-modern degustation menu to the formidable lineup of charcoal grilled prime cuts, but the early signs are good.

M/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-6250. Open daily 6-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-3pm