If there’s such a thing as hi-so dining in Phitsanulok, you’ll find it at Penang Steak Brasserie (www.fb.com/penangsteak, open daily 10:30am-10pm). Once an electronics store, the space has been renovated in industrial style. The wine list is good, but the real draw of this Phitsanulok favorite is the combination of well-executed Thai classics and Thai-spiked Western dishes. That’s to say nothing of its affordability compared to Bangkok’s restaurants. Try the crispy German pork hock served with mashed potato and pickled radish (B249).

Wat Phra Si (known to locals as Wat Yai) has sat on the banks of the Nan River since 1357 (that’s over 660 years). In the main pagoda is Phra Buddha Chinnarat, sheathed in real gold and crowned with a unique fiery halo. One of the most beautiful Buddha statues in Thailand, it draws Buddhists from across the country. A golden, Khmer-style prang completes the beauty of the temple. The temple is up a steep flight of stairs and, unfortunately, only opens to visitors during the month of January.

visit  

 

The activities on display in Suan Chom Nan Park include exercising, painting, fishing and flirting. Run along the riverbanks or join the crowd of aunties in synchronized, aerobic dance. You can even try your foot at thakraw (a rattan ball game). If workouts aren’t your thing, look for Coffee Mania (055-251-133, open daily 9am-10pm), an air-conditioned cafe in an old Thai house. It might look haunted from the outside (and, actually, from the inside too) but the coffee’s good and cheap: lattes for B55 and mochas for B60. 

 

Located 40 minutes from town, Kaeng Song Waterfall is 150 meters wide and 10 meters high. The falls' many levels, streams and pools make favorite picnic places for families. Adults lounge on the banks while children dip in and out of the pools. Aug-Jan is the best time to visit because there’s more water. 

 

This national park offers a variety of terrain, from waterfalls to lush forests to gnarled rocks. The park is 130km from the town center and 1,617 meters above sea level. From 1967-1982, the Communist Party of Thailand was headquartered here. You can hike past the old meeting hall, the political school, even the caves where the communists hid from government forces. Entry costs B40 for Thais, but a hefty B500 for foreigners. If you’re coming in the winter months, you may want to rent a tent and stay overnight. Call to make reservations at 081-596-5977.

School boys discovered these ruins following a stray kick during a soccer game. A subsequent archeological excavation uncovered the home of King Naresuan—beloved king of Myanmar-battling fame. King Naresuan is believed to have lived here between 1584 and 1593, a time when the area was a key part of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. The site is now a historical museum, open daily from 9am-4pm and entry is free.

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Party 

Befitting our nostalgia-themed trip, the Camper Bar (www.fb.com/camperngi, open daily 6pm-midnight) occupies an old, wooden Thai-style building. Inside, it’s funky-hippie: vintage pictures, colorful posters, dim lights and splintering wood walls. It’s crowded on Friday and Saturday nights, so arrive early. Lager Cafe (www.fb.com/lagercafePL, oppen daily 10am-midnight) is a relative newcomer, and stocks an impressive selection of craft beers both local and imported. Get a seat by the big window. When night falls, the golden streetlights flood the bar—pretty romantic. 

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Essentials