A guide to the food and cuisine of Hokkaido
And where to get it without leaving Singapore
Japanophiles know that Hokkaido is really something special. Japan’s northernmost and second-largest island has gorgeous, rugged landscapes, mild summers, excellent skiing and abundant farmland. Not surprisingly, it also has some of the best produce and food products in the world, making the cuisine of Hokkaido a must-eat on any respectable foodie’s bucket list.
But if you can’t get there any time soon, fear not. Singapore’s exciting Japanese food scene has plenty of Hokkaido produce and dishes to tide you over in the meantime. Here’s what you need to know.
Surrounded by the waters of the Sea of Japan and the Northern Pacific Ocean, Hokkaido is famous for its cold-water seafood, and visiting a fish market for a fresh donburi topped with uni, ikura, scallops, crab and other seafood is a must-do for tourists to the island. Advanced foodies know that cold-water fish and seafood are generally acknowledged to be tastier, thanks to the extra fat, and healthier thanks to the extra Omega-3 fatty acids.
Kaisendon at Kan Sushi
To try it in Singapore, book a table at Kan Sushi, the intimate, wood-paneled sushi counter in Tanjong Pagar, which serves, among its many fresh seafood specialties, the immensely popular Hokkaido Kaisendon, topped with all the best catch from the island—expect all the essentials such as botan shrimp, scallop, fatty tuna and a little dollop of fresh uni.
Raw seafood isn’t everybody’s thing, but that doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the bounty of Hokkaido. Over on Kampong Bahru, casual izakaya Manpei specializes in all things from the northern island, and such as the hokke, a relative of the mackerel found in abundance around Hokkaido. Manpei’s Chef Urayama serves a simple grilled version, served with little more than a squeeze of lemon and some daikon.
Japanese food isn’t big on dairy, but the food of Hokkaido is a shining exception to the rule. Thanks to its miles of pastures and dairy farms, the milk, butter and of course ice cream of Hokkaido are famous throughout Japan and among foodies abroad. Dairy products aside, there are some pretty unusual dishes that owe their existence to Hokkaido’s dairy obsession, some of which can be found in Singapore.
For instance, the aptly named Hokkaido Izakaya—which recently opened a second brand at Wisma Atria’s Japan Food Town—serves Hokkaido dairy products in a variety of dishes, such as the milk hotpot with, as well as the Japanese omelet, topped with a knob of Hokkaido.
(Incidentally, the restaurant is also a great place to try fresh Hokkaido soba noodles, made fresh daily from scratch. Home to Japan’s largest soba producer, Hokkaido is pretty famous for buckwheat as well.)
To try something cheesy and comforting, head to tonkatsu specialist Ma Maison, which also has a ramen shop at Capitol Piazza. Order up the signature dish, the Original Creamy Cheese Ramen, where they add a fistful of grated, powdery Hokkaido cheese to the ramen broth (miso, shio or shoyu), giving a rich, salty layer to the already umami-licious flavor.
With its northern location and high elevation, much of Hokkaido has a cool climate throughout the year, with temperatures going well below zero in the winter—perfect weather for rich meats. Hokkaido wagyu is famous, with grass-fed wagyu from Tokachi subprefecture being quite a big deal. In Singapore, you don’t have to look far to find Hokkaido wagyu. The moody, jazzy Kamoshita on Neil Road makes everything from its beef tartare to its beef curry rice with Hokkaido wagyu.
Hokkaido beef tartar at Kamoshita
For something truly unusual, though, head to Boat Quay’s Hokkaido restaurant Hitsuji Club, probably the first in Singapore to specialize in the strangely named jingiskan (also spelled genghiskhan). Named after the Mongolian conqueror—we’re told it has to do with the domed-shaped grill the dish involves, resembling a Mongolian hat—the quintessentially Hokkaido barbecue experience involves not beef but lamb, another rarity for Japan. Hitsuji Club serves platters with various cuts, from loin to chop, as well as some of the fresh vegetables Hokkaido is also famous for: leeks, onions, pumpkin and more.
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