Is Phaya Thai Bangkok's most underrated neighborhood?
The area between BTS Ratchatewi and BTS Phaya Thai area is an affordable neighborhood in the middle of town. Here’s what it’s like to live there.
10 years ago
Accommodation ★★★★★
Plenty of price points to accommodate the workers and students at the surrounding office buildings, government agencies, schools (Triam Udom Suksa and Patumwan Demonstration School) and Chulalongkorn University. You’ve got the option of trendy condos like (1) Ideo Phayathai (Phaya Thai Rd., 02-163-3222), mid- to high-range rental properties like (2) Patumwan Resort (79/181 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-653-8414), (3) Baan Patumwan (158 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-612-1430/5), (4) Villa Ratchatewi (83 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-169-9401) and (5) Condo Lette Ize Ratchathewi (Petchburi Rd., Hotline: 1739), as well as the lower-priced properties of Petchburi sois 5-7. All are walking distance from BTS Phaya Thai. Major hotels in the area also cover a range of price points and include (6) The Sukosol (Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-247-0123) and (7) Bangkok City Hotel (268 Petchburi Rd., 02-215-2929).
Railway
Environment ★★★
Though nowhere near as busy as Victory Monument, Phaya Thai is swarming with office workers and students at lunchtime and after work. Well equipped with pedestrian bridges and well-paved footpaths, the area actually encourages you to walk from one place to another. There are also plenty of little alleys teeming with street food stalls, many of which are tree-lined enough to make for a plesant stroll. Another plus is the beautiful and photogenic (8) railway at the end of Petchburi Soi 7.
The Canton House
Quest
Street Food, Petchburi Soi 5
Food & Café ★★★
There’s a great range of street food here, whether Chinese, Isaan or Muslim. Proper dining choices are a bit lighter on the ground, but the long-standing (9) The Canton House (160 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-612-9233), aka Krua Krungthep, famed for its dim sum and authentic Thai dishes, has just relocated a nearby to a nicer setting with a backyard. Next door is the loft-style (10) Quest Coffee (Phaya Thai Rd., 02-612-1442), which serves coffee, cakes and light bites like baked spinach with cheese and sandwiches. The area from Krua Krungthep all the way to Petchburi sois 5 and 7 is a heaven for street food. Highlights include (11) Bang-Dee beef noodles (130/21 Phaya Thai Rd., 089-791-3785), (12) Plubpla Chai Yod Pak rad na (Phaya Thai Rd., 02-215-5051), (13) Krua Kun Jeaw (Petchburi Soi 5, 089-205-5576), (14) Pee Aor kao na ped (68/51 Petchburi Soi 5, 02-612-9013) and Chinese joint (15) Lai Fu (Petchburi Soi 7, 089-004-9558). As Petchburi soi 7 houses (16) Darul Aman Mosque, you can also find Muslim restaurants like (17) Nang Phaya (403 Petchburi Soi 7, 02-612-0895) and (18) Farida Fotonee (497/5 Petchburi Rd., 02-215-1733), as well as roti and Southern cha chak stalls that open after 6pm in front of the soi. The opposite side of the road is all about Isaan food, including the famous (19) Jay Goy somtam joint (362/2-3 Petchburi Rd., 081-818-3625) next to (20) Jay Dang somtam (Petchburi Rd., 081-550-9989).
Hua Jak Rang Rod Fai
Bars ★★
Nothing too exciting. Next to the railway station, the old Taksura has been revamped as a new pub and restaurant called (21) Hua Jak Rang Rod Fai (Phaya Thai Rd., 087-930-1324) with the same focus on drinking in an outdoor setting. (21) Heap (Phaya Thai Rd., 02-612-6944) is another huge venue offering spicy Thai dishes, draught beer and nightly live cover bands. Despite the shortage of bars in the direct vicinity, you’re still close to Cocowalk (BTS Ratchathewi), Saphan Huachang (BTS Ratchathewi), Rangnam Road and Victory Monument for the likes of Saxophone and Skytrain Jazz Bar.
Transportation ★★★★
You really won’t need a car if you live here thanks to the (23) (24) BTS and (25) Airport Link. But if you do drive or cab it, expect heavy traffic.
Community ★★★★
This part of town is pretty evenly split between residents and non-residents due to all the offices, while there’s also a pretty high turnover of people moving in and out. With Darul Aman Mosque nearby, you’ll find a huge Muslim community, as well as Thai-Chinese families living in old shophouses.
What else?
Hospitals
There are many hospitals in the area, including Phayathai Hospital, Decha Hospital, Priest Hospital and Rajwithi Hospital.
GROCERIES
There’s a (4) MaxValu at Villa Ratchatewi and a fresh market behind Asia Hotel, near BTS Ratchatewi.
FITNESS
23 Now’s Fitness (083-197-9995) isn’t the swankiest gym, but it’s cheap: about B14,000 per year. It’s right under BTS Phaya Thai.
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