It’s 3 am. There is the faint call of cuckoo and other unidentifiable chirping as the world begins to stir. For me, that’s all it was: a sound—reminiscent of pulling all-nighters. But it’s not just a sound. It’s a reminder of how birds can momentarily pull us out of the city and into a wilder, simpler world. Birdwatching has a reputation for being an activity for the rich and retired, but all you really need to start are eyeballs. 

 

Growing up amongst lush gardens and coconut plantations in Chumphon, ecologist and academic officer Vatcharavee “Noom” Sriprasertsil at the Bird Conservation Society of Thailand (BCST) picked up the hobby in highschool when he noticed a curious fellow perched on top of a branch near his bedpost. 

 

 

“In Bangkok, you can just start by observing your front porch,” Noom tells BK. "There are already about four to five species to discover.” 

 

Once you’ve mastered your neighborhood, it’s time to brave the wild. The experts at BCST recommend Chatuchak's Rot Fai Park, Benjakitti Park, and more suburban areas like Suan Luang Rama 9, Kasetsart Park, and Bang Kra Jao.

 

Most of these locations share similar species that are native to Bangkok, but research shows that a diversity in species are found in larger parks. Sufficient and clean wetlands, grasslands, and buildings make the world more welcoming for our feathered friends.

 

 

For bird watchers, the migration season is exciting. From August to February, you can spot rare breeds like the tiny but regal Indian flycatchers native to Myanmar and India and the thrush which flocks south from East Asian regions and are recognized by their dalmatian-spotted underbelly. From February to May, you can still find them with perhaps a rare sighting of the striking blue winged pittas.

 

Birdwatching is best done in the early morning or late evening. So at 8am, BK picked up some telescopes and binoculars at the BCST office; the equipment is rent free for members (subscription and renewal fee at B500 per year).

 

We made a ten minute walk to Mahakan Fort Park. This controversial plot of land belonged to a local community since Rama III, but in the government’s attempt to turn this historic ground into a beautified park for tourists, the residents were evicted in 2018. While public parks might sound like a good idea on paper, there used to be a lot more greenery in the area. Overly manicured plants meant that native vegetation and animals disappear. 

 

That said, this controlled space still yields an easy and fruitful birdwatching experience. Nineteen species were observed in an hour. It’s sort of like a game of Pokemon Go—gotta catch ‘em all. But when you’re paying attention, even the most common species can be thrilling. Right out the gate, pigeons, doves, crows, and tiny sparrows that you usually spot in the canteen make the checklist.

 

 

Every tiny movement like a gust of wind blowing up leaves can look like fluttering of wings. Craning your neck, whistling and cooing, separating it from the nearby traffic sound—it can be overwhelming without a guide. Doing a little homework for what you want to find can be helpful. 

 

Start small by distinguishing the four types of mynas found in Bangkok. The stark contrast of its yellow beak against its black grayish feathers will make it an easy target to find. Or you can keep an eye out for the black and white oriental magpie robin (the bird on the BCST logo) which are extremely common around town.

 

Further into our journey, we caught a couple of coppersmith barbets flirting as the male fed the female some food. Usually found in the Himalayas, they are easy to make out due to their vibrant multi-color plumage: a green body with yellow and red on the cheeks and throat.

 

Photo: Malay fireback / Vatcharavee Sriprasertsil

An innocent looking shrike sits on a branch, carnivorous gray brown birds with a black mask usually send rhythmic short notes to signal its hunting territory. Typically feeding on frogs, beetles, and lizards, they're also known for impaling leftover animal carcasses on thorns, spikes, and barbed wires to come back and eat later. Even birds have to meal-prep.

 

On our way out, we sighted a snow white egret with a slender sharp beak as it tried to find something solid to land on the body of water.

 

Some birdwatchers like to document their experience with a camera. Old school watchers might prefer watching with their bare eyes or with binoculars, and sketch out the species by hand. Telescopes can show you more details but you have to work quickly because by the time you set it up, the birds might be on their way. 

 

If you’re exploring a new hobby, the internet is your friend. Music lovers have Spotify, movie buffs have Letterboxd, and birdwatchers have eBird, an application that informs you about bird sightings around your area and a place where you can log daily discoveries.

 

 

Noom recommends Ni Tua Arai (‘what is thing thing’) Facebook group which has over 600K curious followers and experts sharing pictures of everything from creepy crawlies to wild mammals. A board member on BCST and fellow bird watcher, Vattikorn “Bank” Sophonrat points newbies toward the LBJ Lover Group, and the Thai Bird Report group if you want professional data and bird reports. 

 

Hard to believe, but it’s an adrenaline rush—a new sighting, a hunt, a baby bird, a rare species.

 

“If you take your eyes off the main task for a while, you’ll find that the community of people surrounding the sightings have an interesting of a story,” Noom says. “There’s a lot of cross over between these communities of wildlife watchers. While you’re looking out for birds, you might run into some herping buddies or even more niche communities like fish, moths, and dragonfly enthusiasts.”

 

 

City birds are less sensitive to loud noises and other stimulants, but it’s still important to be conscious and responsible. Don’t alter or create a scene just for a couple of cool shots, and wearing clothes with more neutral tones helps you blend in with nature and increases your chances to find birds.

 

When you get to know these species, learn their names and their quirks. They become less of a stranger, more of a neighbor. 

 

When you hear birdsong, maybe you won’t think of all-nighters. Maybe you’ll remember Mary Oliver’s poem Wild Geese, “Whoever you are, no matter how lonely, the world offers itself to your imagination, calls to you like the wild geese, harsh and exciting over and over announcing your place in the family of things.”