Khao Soi Chiang Mai
It’s not easy to find the perfect khao soi, but khao soi Soi Haa (as it’s also known) has a really rich, hearty soup due to the homemade paste the owners have been concocting for more than 20 years. The fried noodles are really nice, too, and don’t carry the odd smell you sometimes find elsewhere, while the boiled egg noodles are well cooked. Just take a sniff of the highly aromatic, homemade dry chili paste, and you know you’re guaranteed a flavorful bowl (B30-B40).
328/10 Sukhothai Soi 5, 02-668-4497. Open Mon-Sat 8am-2:30pm
Han Jao Nua
We like to head back to Union Mall whenever we get the chance—no, not for the cheap clothes, but for this little place tucked away in the underground level. Han Jao Nua is run by a Northerner who claims to always be on-site to guarantee the quality of her food. Her khao soi (B55) has a nicely balanced flavor, augmented by some very tender chicken. Other recommendations include the variety of curries in clay pots lining the counter. Try the gaeng hunglay or gaeng pakkard jor—you’ll lick your bowl clean.
B/F, Union Mall, Ladprao Rd., 081-712-6091. Open daily 10am-8:30pm
Khao Soi Lumduan Fah Haam BK PICK!
The legendary, 70-year-old khao soi joint in Chiang Mai also has a branch in Bangkok. This one is run by the daughter of founder Auntie Lumduan and we can assure you that; like mother, like daughter. It’s all about the khao soi here and if you’re the type of person who likes yours dense, spicy and salty then this is the place. We like the deep-fried noodles, which are crunchy yet fresh, and we always get a bowl of slow-cooked baby back ribs (B50) to go with.
16/54 Vipawadee-Rangsit Soi 58, 085-916-9905, 02-579-6403, 081-919-0951. Open daily 8:30am-3pm (except the last Sun of the month)
Krua Khun Iad
Don’t judge Khun Iad by its typical, cheap street look, all the media clippings stuck up in one corner heaping praise on their khao soi (B50) should tell you all you need to know about this place. Single dishes seem to be the owner’s main love and most people come here for her Northern dishes. If you’re in the neighborhood, drop in for the nicely simmered beef option and make sure to add a little fresh lime juice for extra flavor.
23/8 Petchpahol Apartment, Ngamwongwan Soi 54, 081-802-3332, 02-941-1128. Open daily 9am-8pm
Gedhawa
Located in the very heart of Bangkok, Gedhawa has a lovely atmosphere—a garden, lots of tung (Northern flags) and the owner’s knick-knacks. They do many Northern-style dishes, including a pleasantly, light version of khao soi. Add some of their fresh condiments for a more flavorful bowl (B85) that you don’t need to cross town for. Another must-try is the kua kae (stir-fried vegetables with chicken, B120), which tastes properly homemade.
25 Sukhumvit Soi 35, 02-662-0501. Open Mon-Sat 11am-2pm; 5-10pm.
Dara Dalay
Chiang Mai organic farm and homestay Dara Dalay opened a small eatery in Bangkok a few months ago and we find ourselves regularly returning for their authentic Northern dishes made by the friendly auntie/owner of the farm. They do a brief list of Northern dishes like kanom jeen nam ngiaw (rice vermicelli with spicy pork and tomato soup, B40) and, of course, khao soi (B40). Their very addictive take on the dish features a perfectly rich soup with a nice balance of flavors, while the chicken is tender and moist. Almost every dish here is made with organic vegetables grown on the farm. We recommend you check their Facebook page (www.facebook.com/daradalay) for news of when they’ll be serving special dishes like hed nueng namprik kha (steamed mushroom with galangal paste).
Pichai Market, Pichai Rd., Dusit, 086-378-3837, 089-499-2878. www.daradalay.com. Open Mon-Sun 12-7pm
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