We’ve been tough on Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin (Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162 9000. www.kempinski.com) in the past. (Kiin Kiin, in Copenhagen, is now the world’s only Michelin-star restaurant doing exclusively Thai food.) But the return of Chef de Cuisine Morten Nielson seems to have put the kitchen back in order—a high-wire act given that Sra Bua uses extremely modern techniques while preserving authentic Thai flavors. The new set menu (still B2,400) sees quail in coconut milk with chanterelle and crispy skin alongside river prawn salad with coconut and spicy dressing. Lunch is only slightly more reasonable (B1,600); or go for the a la carte with dishes like their famous frozen red curry with lobster and lychee (B450).