The buzz: Chef Sujira "Aom" Pongmorn, former head chef at Saawaan and the very first winner of Michelin's Young Chef Award, has embarked on a new culinary venture, opening her first solo restaurant, Khaan, this past October. Her old outfit, Saawaan, won a Michelin star while Aom was at the helm, so this new venue comes with high hopes—and expectations. 

 

The vibe: After entering the white and burgundy two-story home in Lumpini, guests are greeted by chefs in all-whites working in the restaurant's open kitchen and open views onto the lively Soi Somkid outside. There are two dining areas on the lower and top floors, the upstairs spot being a sleek space that feels elevated yet utterly relaxed. The interior shows blends of traditional and antique Thai styles, with draped crimson velvet curtains, velvet armchairs and opulent gold accented walkways. The vibrant red is complemented by the muted palette of cream and subtle timber work. 

 

The food: Ingredients in the 11-course tasting menu (B3,850) are sourced from farms all over the country and inspired by a range of regional Thai cuisines. It also goes to pains to minimize waste through a “whole animal and seafood” approach. A lot of what you see will be familiar to Michelin-star gazers: crab, scallop, lamb, fish, but with innovative touches. Take the sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf and Singburi crab, one of Khaan’s signature dishes. It features red curry paste and an orange butter crab bowl for a salty, umami-rich dish served with sticky rice that has been steamed with coconut milk and then grilled. The result is glutinous, smoky, and aromatic sticky rice that feels familiar but new at the same time. The menu also includes a daily catch from the restaurant’s stable of fishermen on hand. On this visit, a filet was dry-aged for three days to create a firm texture and was then stuffed with a flavorful fish mousse. The filet is topped with local vegetables and herbs from Isaan and dressed with a collagen-rich sauce made of fish heads and tails. Among the mains is a nod to the days of King Rama Five: a crispy and tender lamb shank paired with fragrant turmeric basmati rice and Boombai curry (an ancient Indian curry, we’re told). The curry is a genuinely exciting rendition of the classic massaman curry and packed with flavor thanks to cardamom, curry powder and plenty of punchy chilis. It is served with a selection of high-acid accompaniments—pickled shallots, cucumber and chili chutney—providing the necessary cut-through. The dessert, Pumpy-Umpy-Umpkin, celebrates the versatility of, you guessed it, pumpkin. The dish glows orange from the color of the ice cream, crumble, puree, sponge cake, powder, and a flambe pumpkin compote, with each element showcasing a different facet of the pumpkin’s flavor and texture. The piece de resistance of the dish is the aforementioned flambe, theatrically infused with Thai vodka at the table for a dramatic conclusion to the menu. It might sound like pumpkin overload, but the various flavors, textures, temperatures, all get enhanced by the smokiness of the Thai vodka, ginger, and cinnamon for a very comforting dish. 

  

Why we’d come back: With Chef Aom’s impressive pedigree, and continued commitment to tradition and innovation (not an easy line to walk), we’re excited for a second visit. Her fearless approach to thinking outside the box breathes new life into fine-dining and breaks down conventional barriers—once again.