The craft beer craze shows no signs of abating as we head into 2014 with new bars and new beers heading to the city. At the vanguard of it all is a wide range of craft Indian Pale Ales arriving in Bangkok from as far afield as Japan, Scotland and the USA. But what exactly is an IPA, why is it such a hit with beer lovers and where did it originate? 

While craft beers are a relatively new trend, the origins of IPA actually go a long way back. In fact, its roots can be dated back to the 19th Century and a time when Britain’s Empire was at its peak. Many a colonial ruler started to miss a drop of the good stuff from back home creating a growing market in Britain’s largest colony, India. As a result, British brewers started to make a version of pale ale, which had more hops and a longer shelf life, especially for export.  

“IPA was originally designed to survive the long trip from England to India without going sour,” explains Kan Navikapol, part-owner of Smiling Mad Dog Co., Ltd., who import craft beers from the likes of BrewDog and St. Bernardus.

However, the popularity of IPA soon spread and it wasn’t just homesick admin clerks in Bombay who were enjoying the distinctive flavor of the IPAs, which had a much hoppier or bitter flavor and a stronger alcohol level than other ales of the time. As a result, IPAs began to be brewed more extensively and spread to America, Canada and Australia by the beginning of the 1900s. “These days, it just means that the beer is ‘hopped’ and has a strong hoppy flavor,” confirms Kan.

Indeed, it’s the hoppiness (a bitter, tanginess) of IPAs and its flexibility when it comes to brewing with other flavors that have made India Pale Ale such a hit with brewers, beer lovers and foodies. “From tropical fruits to pine and citrus, it really depends on the brew master who can mix these for an endless range of flavors,” explains Brian Bartusch, GM of Beervana.

Much like wines, the profiles and flavors of different craft beers are heavily influenced by the regions or countries where they are brewed. That means that American IPAs have a very different flavor profile when compared to their British cousins. 

“American IPAs use tons of hops, and to get technical, people would call these beers ‘American India Pale Ales,” confirms Kan. “English IPAs use locally sourced ingredients and are usually more balanced between a hoppy taste (bitterness) and the sweet and smooth maltiness.”

But it can be broken down further than that, with IPA fans able to recognize major differences between the different states. The characters of the West Coast IPAs seems to be more flowery with hints of pine and fruits, while the East Coast tend to be sweeter with malty undertones.

As the popularity of craft beer explodes, more and more people are experimenting with brewing combinations and flavors, and it’s now common for breweries to use ingredients, from types of hops to fruit varieties, from all over the world. Sometimes you’ll even find those brewers who emphasize a single-origin idea, such as the BrewDog’s IPA is Dead series, which uses the same base beer but four different hops or come with new styles, such as Deschutes’ black and white IPAs.

Brian believes that the next big trend will see people brewing more sour beer and utilizing wild yeast, while Kan believes that we’ll see more gypsy brewers, individuals like Mikkeler who make amazing beer but don’t have an actually brewery. Moving forward it seems that the sky is pretty much the limit with IPAs. 

Try these different IPAs: 

Scotland: BrewDog Punk IPA (B240)

Punk IPA is just one of a range of ales from Scottish craft brewer BrewDog who claim to make irreverent beer with a soul. It is based on a classic Indian Pale Ale, meaning it’s brewed using pale malts, which in turn produce a paler beer, but Punk is given a modern twist thanks to the addition of lots of fruity hops to ensure a real burst of flavor.

Get it at: Beerosophy, Beerology, Brew Beers & Ciders, Niche Cafe and Hobs.

US: Deschutes Chainbreaker White IPA (B220)

Part of the Deschutes family of beers, who have been brewing out of Bend, Oregon (the heartland of American craft beers), since 1988. The beer itself is unusual in that it is a hybrid; brewed with both wheat and pilsner malt, plus orange and coriander, the end result is a distinctive blend of traditional Belgian-style wheat beer and a classic Indian Pale Ale.

Get it at: www.seekbeervana.com

Denmark: Mikkeller Invasion Farmhouse IPA (B1,490 for 750 ml)

Best known for being a gypsy brewer, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø started off his passion by brewing his beer in different breweries including BrewDog and many other countries before his label became famous for its great diversity, including a range of IPAs, and is now served at many top restaurants.

Get it at: Check on the update for the Mikkeller Bar in Bangkok here or at www.mikkellerbangkok.com or get it at www.wishbeer.com

England: Greene King IPA (B195)

Definitely more classic than the other IPAs on this list this beer has a much milder taste, with only a slight hint of hoppiness making it much more reminiscent of a standard English pale ale. It certainly makes it eminently drinkable, though it still packs a potent punch and you can even enjoy it on draught at certain British pubs around town.  

Get it at: Drink it on tap at the Black Swan and the Old Ship. Buy it at www.mbsthai.com or www.wishbeer.com.

MORE: Meet the guys behind Bangkok's Craft Beer Revolution, find out where to enjoy these beers and more with our round up of the Best Beer Bars in Bangkok and discover how you can also have them delivered to your door with our guide to Bangkok's Best Beer Delivery Services.

You're probably familiar with Upper Silom, which stretches from Rama 4 Road to the Narathiwat Ratchanakarin intersection, with BTS Sala Daeng at its heart. We work there and there's not much to like about the area, except for its fine-dining (D'Sens, Indigo, Ruen Urai) and, of course, the very gay Soi 2. But we're spending our evenings increasingly often in Lower Silom, which stretches from the Narathiwat Intersection to Charoen Krung—an area we seldom frequented in the past except for its excellent galleries: H, Kathmandu, Tang and Thavibu.

Things started to change with the Dean & Deluca at the Mahanakorn Tower site. By the way, that's scheduled to re-open in the first quarter as a full-blown market with cooking stalls and a Joel Robuchon restaurant. Then came the re-opening of the Sofitel Silom as the Pullman G and the arrival of the W. Their respective after-dark hangouts, Scarlett and Woo Bar, breathed a new kind of cool into the area. Maggie Choo's really bluffed us too, for packing in the crowds in a location  that wasn't exactly known for its nightlife. Following in their footsteps, here are the places that opened in the past year.

Signature Restaurant (Ku De Ta)

Just like in Singapore, Ku De Ta’s Signature Restaurant cooks up modern Asian fine-dining, with sweeping views to boot. The kitchen is led by Chef Jonathan Maza, who’s had stints with Nobu in many countries, and delivers a brief menu packed with creative dishes that show off the team's modern techniques and elaborate presentation. The aromatic yellowtail is jazzed up with cilantro vinaigrette (B500), and the addictive asparagus tempura (B300) comes with truffle soy and edamame puree. The mains include madai shiso (Japanese sea bream with dried miso and shiso lime vinaigrette, B500) or, for those on expense accounts, try the strip loin steak (B3,000) with a marble score of A5 from Omi Prefecture in Japan. The restaurant is serious about its sweets, too, whipped up by Chef Jason Licker. Our fave, the Thai S’mores (B360), combines marshmallow with praline and Thai tea ice cream. And if you want to continue drinking, you should head to Ku Bar for their equally intriguing cocktail list. For those who work in the area, the next door restaurant, Izakaya, offers more reasonably-priced lunch sets starting from B350.

39/F, Sathorn Square Bldg., Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2000. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6-10:30pm

Lady Brett

The folks behind Rocket have just expanded their cafe next door. The welcoming Lady Brett, however, dips its toes into nightlife with its interior inspired by the 20th century taverns of New York. Things are kept very cozy thanks to the wooden bar and window frames, while the menu is focused on simple and natural flavors. Mains range from fire-roasted mustard chicken (B360/B675, hanger steak (B795) and braised lamb shank (690), courtesy of Chef Rene Michelena, formerly of Hong Kong bar and restaurant Lily & Bloom. Sides include baked zucchini with onion and cheddar and grilled buttered corn (B120). The bar which serves up lots of sexy infusions with ingredients like chamomile and ginger. Our picks: the the Crisp n’ Cloudy (rum, pear, ginger and cocoa) or Paloma (tequila, grapefruit and soda) both B330. Upstairs is a small lounge, dubbed U.N.C.L.E., which serves premium spirits. 

149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0405. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am

ASK A LOCAL

Suppakij Pucharoensilp, 74, owners of D.K. Bakery, open for nearly 70 years.

What was Silom like in the old days?

There was a canal right where the road is now. We even had trams running from Charoenkrung to Saladaeng. I really deplored it when the government decided to cover the canal to make the road and removed the tram. There were many big trees. It would have been nice to preserve this atmosphere. 

What it’s like to live here now?

I don’t like the car fumes when the traffic gets bad. It’s also hard to find a taxi, because the drivers hate the traffic here. I have to offer them an extra B20 to persuade them to take me home.

What are your favorite places around here?

I love Fu Mui Kee as they’ve served delicious food for so long. My favorites are the pork chop, beef stew and tod mun goong (fried shrimp cake). Too bad that Silom Restaurant just closed down and the original Yen Ta Fo Wat Kaek has gone. The new one just isn’t as good. I also love to walk to Prachum market which is just opposite my shop. It’s really convenient as it has everything and I’ve known the sellers for ages. 

661

Sat in Niu’s Concerto’s old space, 661 Silom is the new baby of the team behind Le Beaulieu. Climb up to the 2/F to try Meat, which serves up high-quality New York-style steaks prepared by Chef Cyril Cocconi, previously of Elements (The Okura Prestige) and the kitchen of super-chef Joel Robuchon. Downstairs is the bar, Meet, home to the fancy Dom Perignon lounge, which also serves breakfast and coffee during the day.

661, Silom Road, 02-266-8661. BTS Surasak. Open daily 5pm-midnight.

Le Du

Run by two young Thai chefs, Thitid "Ton" Tassanakajohn and Worathon "Tae" Udomchalotorn, who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), Le Du is offering Asian-flavored dishes made with modern techniques and local ingredients, like the cold charred leek soup with frozen parfait, which is jazzed up with sunflower seed and cowslip creepers (B160). You can try the four-course set dinner for B990 (B1,980 with booze) but, particularly if you work in the area, the lunch menu makes for a less fancy but satisfying option with some pasta and salad dishes.

Silom Soi 7, 081-562-6464. BTS Chong Nonsi. www.ledubkk.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; Mon-Sat 6-11pm

ASK A LOCAL

Lerdluck and Lalida Tabloga, 69 and 66, owners of the legendary 80-year-old restaurant Fu Mui Kee

“The buildings here used to be very elegant when we first moved in but now they’re pretty shabby. But I like it the way it is. I love the slow life here as our neighborhood is mostly residences. It’s good that we’re down a small soi, too, so it’s not too crazy. And Wat Khaek market is better than at the bigger Bangrak market.” —Lerdluck

“We’ve got many memories here, especially of the big floods back in 1986. Luckily our 80-year-old wooden furniture is made from teak. Though I like the calm atmosphere here, it would be great if it could be busier.” —Lalida

Dan Bahadur, 55, of Mashoor Sweet and Indian Food

How long have you worked here?

It’s been about 10 years. I came from Shan State in Myanmar to open this shop 10 years ago. I worked as a gem dealer in Myanmar, but I changed my mind to sell sweets and food here.

Do lots of Thais come here?

Yes. People love to buy sweets to present  to gods at the temple as well as take home to eat, as we believe these sweets can bring us good fortune. 

What do you like about living here?

I feel so blessed to live near the temple, as I feel it brings us prosperity. 

Where do you eat out?

My favorite  is Krua Aroi Aroi opposite the Wat Khaek entrance. They sell delicious Thai street food.

NIGHTLIFE

Maggie Choo’s

Move past the small noodle shop, with its Chinese paper umbrellas on the ceiling, into the dimly lit main room filled with button-tufted leather couches and an old-school casino cashier counter. The heavy steel doors that guard the private vaults and ladies in chongsams recreate a 1930s speakeasy atmosphere, while the cocktails (B360) come courtesy of old-hand Joseph Boroski. 

Underground of Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 02-635-6055. Open Mon-Sun 7pm-2am

Theatre Bar

Self-proclaimed “party hotel” Mode Sathorn is home to this colorful, 60s-style vision of the future. The space is decked out with a theatrical-inspired pop decor marked by a vivid floor with flower-shaped backlights which continually change color, mask-shaped sofas and eye-catching white fabric sphere lamps that serve as film screens for vintage flicks throughout the evening. Resident DJs take turns spinning different nights, with house and progressive the staple sounds. Try their Hollywood-themed cocktails like Jennifer Aniston’s Margarita, Johnny Depp’s Bourbon Sour, Sex and the City (Metropolitan) and Pretty Woman (Grand Marnier, cranberry juice, orange twist and sparkling wine), which go for B280. 

10/F, Mode Sathorn, 144 North Sathorn Rd., BTS Surasuk. 02-623-4555. Open daily 6pm-2am 

Ku Bar (Ku De Ta)

The Japanese-inspired Ku Bar is located on the 39th floor, between restaurants Izakaya and Signature, and serves Japanese aperitifs for those waiting to be seated or a pre-drinking venue for those gearing up for a big night. The dimly lit bar carries plenty of sophisticated touches, like the black granite countertop, while their signature cocktails focus on Japanese spirits and Asian ingredients, with flavors to suit Bangkok’s climate, like the Storm Cooler (B360) with passion fruit, lime, honey, and vodka and the Hurricane Lychee (B360) with lychee, egg white, soda and gin.   

39 & 40/F, Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd., BTS Chong Nongsi. 02-108-2000. Open Sun-Tues 11am-11pm, Wed-Sat 11am-late

The Roof @ 38th Bar

The latest bar to arrive at Mode Sathorn might be just the place to see the whole picture of Lower Silom, thanks to its panoramic rooftop view that includes three bends in the Chao Phraya River and three bridges. The venue itself occupies a square-shaped balcony, so to take in the whole 360-degree views, you might need to strut a few laps. Otherwise, just opt for one of the cozy sofas facing out from the pavilion. As for dishes, they offer everything from Mexican and Moroccan snacks and cold cuts to inventive dumplings and fusion sushi.

38/F, Mode Sathorn, 144 North Sathorn Rd., BTS Surasuk. 02-623-4555. Open daily 6pm-1am

ASK A LOCAL

Manit Sriwanichpoom, artist and owner Kathmandu Gallery on Pan Road

How long have you been around here?

My wife and I actually loved to visit Sri Maha Mariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) so we’re familiar with this area, even though we live on Sukhumvit. I was lucky that I bought this building at a cheap price seven years ago and decided to open the gallery here. 

What do you like most here?

I love that it’s such a melting pot of culture here. There are Hindus at Wat Khaek and if you cross the road, there is Masjid Mirasuddeen where Muslims from here and abroad come to pray. Further towards Sathorn, there is a Catholic church and Chinese communities. It’s really diverse.  

There are lots of new condos being built in the area; how will this change the character of the place?

I’m afraid that it will lose its charm as a close-knit community. When there are problems, people help look out for one another, but those who live in condos barely know each other. They just live between their own walls. Another problem I’ve noticed in recent years is Wat Khaek. Now the district heavily promotes it as an attraction, which detracts from its spiritual significance. 

What is your favorite place?

Well, I love the Indian sweets shop opposite my gallery [Mashoor Sweet and Indian Food]. The guy sells really original versions of Indian desserts. Another place is Yen Ta Fo Wat Khaek and a tam sang (made-to-order) restaurant where I always go for lunch. The best Thai food here, Taling Pling, just moved to a new spot at Baan Silom on Silom soi 19. But Opus, on my soi, is another favorite for when I’m craving Italian food.