How did you get into doing this?
We’ve been learning about coffee for years. We met a small community of coffee lovers—from farmers to roastmasters—who are happy to work independently and on a smaller scale, and we learned a lot from them. Coffee connects us to others.

How is Thai coffee doing?
There is both good and bad quality Thai coffee. Even though farmers have been growing beans for more than ten years, there are very few who really want to improve their quality. They’re uninformed. But some roasting companies are starting to form direct relationships with the farmers or even buying farmland, as customers are beginning to care more about the quality of the beans. In some places like Chiang Rai, we’re seeing locals who really understand that this crop can be grown very naturally, unlike others.

What do you think of the baristas in Thailand?
Some baristas are starting to take their jobs more seriously. They’re not just staff, but more akin to a chef, who creates a dish from different ingredients.

Any advice for those who want to open a café?
Be crazy for coffee. Go all out. After a while, all those cafés that don’t put in the extra effort will simply fade away. It’s not easy, but do it with passion and you don’t need to worry too much about location. You’ll find the right one someday.

How should people select their beans?
See the color of the roasted ones. The most important part is the roast date. If you open the bag, it’s going to stay OK for about a month.

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What’s your favorite region for coffee?
Different soils give you different coffee beans. I like the African region. Places like Kenya offer exciting beans; it’s almost like traveling.

What is third wave coffee culture?
It’s a movement wherein every step in the process of coffee making is taken very seriously. It’s about placing greater importance on the source, selection and quality of beans. It started in the US years ago and we’re seeing more of that here. We might see a fourth wave—maybe more coffee pairing with food, but in the end, it all comes down to the pleasure you get out of a cup.

What makes for a good cup of coffee?
You need to experience the lot, and in the end, everyone likes a different cup of coffee. In the practice of coffee tasting, the big five categories for consideration are aroma, flavor, body, acidity and after-taste.

What does coffee mean to you?
It's a design piece. It’s like we’re taking different materials and creating a single piece. Different hands craft different things.

What’s the future for the Thai coffee industry?
At last, we’re starting to see some quality. There’re lots of cafés opening, but most are just not right. It all depends on the owners.

What are the popular beans?
Kenya, Ethiopia, Colombo and Brazil.

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Is it hard to import coffee beans?
Yes. Coffee is not easy an product to import. The tax is probably 100% of the cost, and the number of importers is also limited.

What makes a good cup of coffee?
Before the coffee reaches you, it goes through about 40 hands to grow, tend, harvest, process and roast. The final step is the barista, who probably plays the most important role. A good barista needs to really know their coffee, so that they can get the most potential out of all the different beans. They need to respect what they do.

How do your customers have their coffee?
The coffee drinking culture is growing slowly. Not so many people want to invest a lot in good coffee. But fortunately, we have a small group of customers who understand what we’re doing, and we hope it’s getting better. Hopefully, it’s only 3-4 years until Thailand becomes a lively café hub like Singapore.

What’s the current state of the Thai coffee industry?
It’s better compared to the past. But with only a few years until the AEC comes in, I’m quite concerned for our farmers, as the prices for Thai coffee might drop.

What are your plans for the near future?
We’re going to open a place called The Roots, between Ekkamai Sois 15 and 17 in April. It’ll be more like a roast factory-lab, plus a coffee bar. It will be all about coffee and we’ll be using the cold brew method. There’ll also be lessons in basic and advanced latte art and more.

Any advice for those who want to open a café?
Firstly, you need to ask yourself why you want to have a café and who is it for. If you’re in the coffee industry, you need to learn about coffee, be service-minded and love drinking it. Make sure that you really love what you do.

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Two ways to get a great selection of brews to your door.

Beervana Craft Beer Club

Fans of the beers on offer from this craft brew importer can save themselves the trouble of heading down to the nearest gastro-bar/restaurant, like Smith or Shuffle. It’s now free to be a member and you get a 25% discount on brews and free delivery on orders of 12 bottles or more within the CBD. Members also get invites to regular tastings and special events.
www.seekbeervana.com

Wishbeer

Set up recently by Frenchman Jerome Le Louer, they currently have around 50 beers and ciders from England, Germany, Belgium, Australia, Japan and America available, but are always willing to try and bring in your favourite tipple. Simply go to the website, register and then choose your poison. There’s a minimum order of six beers and it’s B150 for delivery (free if you spend over B2,000).
www.wishbeer.com
 

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Four top pubs for dedicated beer drinkers.

Brew Beer and Ciders

G/F, Seen Space, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2366. www.brewbkk.com. Open daily 4pm-11am.
One of the main hubs for all things beer-related, it was set up by part-time beer importer and aficionado Chris Foo. The result is a laidback, slightly spit-and-sawdust place that offers intriguing brews from America, Britain, Belgium and beyond, with the added bonus of people-watching in the Seenspace courtyard.

Niche Beerville

482 Praditmanutham Rd., 02-515-1232-3. Open 4pm-midnight
For some reason the residents of the burbs seem to love their beer, the latest evidence being this spot. While we might not be big fans of the fake retro touches and cheesy photo opps on offer, we have to admire the big outdoor terrace, good pub grub and, most importantly, the choice of over 140 well-curated beers. Oh, and they offer a beer buffet (B777 for 3 hours) from Sun to Thu, and 2.5-l towers of Weihenstephan, Stella or Bavaria at B999.

Beerosophy 101

1/F, Mega Bangna (Event Zone), Bang Na-Trat Km. 8. Open daily 5pm-midnight.
The sister joint of CDC’s Beerology, this venue out at giant Mega Bangna has a distinctly cellar vibe (despite the mall setting) thanks to the checkered floor and preponderance of beer barrels. They have over 100 different lagers, ales, ciders, white and fruit beers to choose from plus staff who know what they’re talking about.

Beervault

Four Points by Sheraton, Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3000. Open daily 11-1am
An early embracer of the beer philosophy, it has managed to retain a pretty impressive pedigree over the last couple of years that allows it to transcend its location next to a hotel lobby. A well-curated and often changing specials list shows enthusiasm while a great 2 for 1 daily happy hour deal on selected beers (5-7pm) makes it well worth dropping by.

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Gitte Holmboe, 43, is not your typical craft beer enthusiast. The blonde-haired Dane doesn’t have a beard and, well, she’s not a man for starters. But she does happen to be the brewmaster for one of the world’s most highly respected premier craft beers, Bøgedal from Denmark, whose unique brewing process means each batch is unique.

Have you always been interested in beer?
No. I was actually a wine person. But I am interested in taste, and when I found out what beer could actually be developed into, then I got interested.

How did you become a brew master?
My husband started out brewing with the very first Danish microbrewery and then he founded our brewery. Since he is into the actual process of brewing (he is an engineer), he gave me the responsibility of developing the taste of Bøgedal.

Why make a premier craft beer?
Because we have a very small production capacity and a very complex story behind our production methods, I decided we should make a beer targeting the high-end wine market. They tend to be more interested in taste notes, history and production methods.

What is all gravity brewing?
All gravity brewing is brewing without the use of pumps; using natural gravity to move the beer from cask-to-cask. This method of brewing is now also becoming popular for some of the world’s best wine makers as it retains more of the important flavors, often lost in other methods.

What makes Bogedal beers so special?
The beers are very full bodied and complex, but at the same time they are elegant and well balanced. Due to the production process, many fine taste notes are still present, which give an experience you don’t find in beer produced in modern breweries.

Bøgedal will be imported by Hopsessions at select venues soon. Visit www.facebook.com/hopsession
 

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SOI 43

12.) The Swiss Choice

(EAT) It doesn't look like much with it's crudely painted scenes depicting the Swiss Alps and otherwise barebones decor, but this little cheese shop and restaurant has some of Bangkok's best fondue and raclette.
Open Mon-Sat 11am-3pm, 6pm-10pm. 02-259-0590

SOI 45

13.) Cabochon Hotel & Residence (STAY)
Thai Lao Yeh (EAT)
The Joy Luck Club (DRINK)
Wooden Submarine
(SHOP)

Taiwanese interior designer Eugene Tan’s love for classical elegance is clear in the grandeur of the eight-room Cabochon Hotel, tucked down this quiet dead-end soi. Completed last year, the building offers an imposing white neoclassical façade while the interior recreates the home of a Chinese tycoon in the heyday of 1920s Shanghai. Inside you’ll find an Aladdin’s cave of vintage items from animal skulls to huge Louis Vuitton trunks. Even if you’re not staying here, The Joy Luck Club lounge and bar supplies an ambience that’s part speakeasy and part library, while the Thai restaurant Thai Lao Yeh is furnished with traditional wood, marble tables and old prints. It serves up dishes influenced by Lao, Northern and Northeastern cuisines. The newest addition comes in the form of Wooden Submarine, a clothing and accessories store that lets you browse vintage Americana from confederate flags to old prison vests (see more details on page 19).
Restaurant open 11am-2pm, 6-10:30pm. Rooms from B8,600/2 nights. 02-259-2871/-3. www.cabochonhotel.com

14.) Casa Pagoda

(SHOP) The airy 600-sq-meter, two-story space is filled with an eclectic mix of tasteful home decor items, ranging from French country style wooden dining tables to industrial-chic leather couches to hemp rugs sporting giant Baroque prints. But smaller decorative pieces are also available.
Open daily 11am-8pm. 02-258-1917

15.) Quince

(EAT) Just up the road from the Cabochon is the equally handsome Quince. One of the hottest eateries in town at the moment, its intriguing and inventive “market” menu has a real focus on sustainability, ethical eating and local produce. That means simple, but delicious treats like roast carrots with shallot, honey and poppy seed and whole shoulder of lamb. It’s all served in a space that mixes industrial elements with vintage touches like European furniture and posters.
Open daily 11:30-1am. 02-662-4478

SOI 47

16.) Rainhill

The five-story venue, clustered around an impressive water feature, offers plenty of dining options from Thai restaurant Som Tum Dok Rak (2/F, 02-863-8593. Open daily 10am-10:30pm) to Japanese Udon noodle venue Marugame Seimen and contemporary sushi bar Kinki, as well as some quirky shops. See the following individual entries for highlight venues.
www.rainhill47.com

17.) Him and Her 

(SHOP) Owned by couple and self-confessed fashionistas, Diloklarp “Him” Junthachotibutr and Ploy “Paloy” Horwang, Him & Her started off as a vintage clothing store where the two curated items from around the world. Since moving to their new location they’ve also started designing their own womenswear ranging from dresses to pants, which are proving popular with local stars and celebrities.
Open Tue-Sun 1-9pm. 2/F, Rainhill, 02-261-7233

18.) Apostrophe’s

(SHOP) This is Bangkok’s second branch of this Japanese-style zakka store, a small shop selling everything from cute tableware to linen handicrafts—all of which follow a similar theme. Browse through their collection of handcrafted pillow cases and tote bags, and then sit back and sip a bag of their homemade lemon soda.
Open daily 10:30am-9pm. G/F, Rainhill, 083-110-0445

19.) Shuffle  

(EAT)The décor follows an industrial chic setup with bare brick walls, steel painted black and lamps dangling from the ceiling—and gets extra points for the outdoor terrace overlooking Sukhumvit Road. The menu embraces comforting dishes like chicken wings and burgers but also offers more unique options like peach and prosciutto salad with brie or the “rustic quesadilla” with smoked salmon, mornay sauce and chive sour cream. They stock decent wines and a few American craft beers and also promise a special brunch menu soon.
Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 11:30am-midnight.
1/F, Rainhill, 02-261-6992

20.) Kinki     

(EAT)(DRINK) Nestled on the 6/F of Rainhill, Kinki may offer only modest views of the Sukhumvit skyline, including the nearby BTS line, but this newly opened rooftop venue delivers on its promise of “urban attitude” through its combination of Japanese fusion fare, custom cocktails, walls covered in graffiti and regular DJ nights (including international acts). Imported from Singapore, the Japanese-themed bar and restaurant serves up signature dishes like tai carpaccio (B380) and foie gras and scallop sushi (B350) while the cocktail list includes such offerings as the Spicy Hachimitsu (B240). (See more details on page 27.)
Open Mon/Tue/Thu/Sun 5pm-midnight, Wed/Fri/Sat 5pm-1am.Rooftop (6/F), Rainhill, 02-261-7204. www.kinki.co.th.

21.) Near Equal 

(EAT) If you have the energy to escape Rainhill and walk a little further down the leafy Soi 47 you’ll come to this 60s-style former home. The second floor boasts wooden walls, floors and colored screens while downstairs there’s a selection of Thai furniture, handicrafts and knick-knacks for sale. The kitchen whips up artfully-presented Thai dishes like stir-fried pea sprouts with oyster sauce, tom yum kung and fried chicken with lemongrass.
Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm. 02-258-1564

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22.) Big Knit Café  

(EAT) Yes, knitting is still hot! The main draw here is that it’s a great place to knit, providing all the materials you need in its shop, along with some friendly tips, and a cute café to get your knitting done. Big Knit Café has a compact menu of baked pasta, Thai single-dishes and plenty of cakes.
Open daily 9am-9pm. The Natural Park Bldg. next to Dental Hospital,.02-260-5050. www.bigknit49.com

23.) La Bottega  

(EAT) When it comes to Italian fine dining, La Bottega lives up to expectations in every way, shape and form, from the authenticity of the food (drawn from all parts of Italy), the hands-on service by Chef Luca and his staff, the classy ambience and yes, the hefty bill at the end of your meal. For a slightly more uptight and hiso option, head indoors with the rich Thai and expat families; otherwise, head for the dark wooden balcony.
Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-midnight;
Mon 5pm-midnight. Terrace 49, 02-204-1731

24.) Duly  

(SHIOPPING) Regarded as one of the most sophisticated menswear brands in Thailand, Duly stocks ready-to-wear formal clothes, and offers a tailoring service for suits and shirts, even for international visitors. (They can also deliver orders by mail.) They provide a range of different options, from the buttons you want to the types of stitching and a huge choice of quality shirt fabrics from the likes of Thomas Mason in the UK, which was founded back in 1796. They also recently rolled out a range of business shoes made at an old workshop in Italy.
Open daily 10am-7pm. 02-662-6647/8

25.) Grease (NEW)

(EAT)(DRINK) Newspaper heir Dan Hetrakul chose to eschew the hustle and bustle of the usual party districts to open Grease, a swanky all-in-one nightspot, on the quieter Sukhumvit Soi 49. Occupying a four-story shophouse, this newly-opened venue contains a bar, club, lounge and restaurant, aiming to cater to all sorts of late-night pursuits. Each floor is decked out in a different theme. The first floor, named Any Winehouse, is a high-ceilinged restaurant and wine bar. The second floor sees a faux garden, while the third floor is home to LSD, the clubbing space with interactive-LED surfaces, laser lights and plethora of mirrors. Meanwhile, up on the fourth floor you’ll find Cry Baby, a sort of chilled-out living room, where musical newcomers are given a chance to play live. On the rooftop is the open-air bar called Top-Loader for drinks under the stars.
Open daily 6pm-late. Piman 49 Complex, 02-662-6120/1

26.) Kanom  

(EAT) Probably the classiest branch of the famous egg tart chain founded by real-estate tycoon Patinya “Pa Tob” Kuantrakul, it is housed in a standalone house right opposite Samitivej Hospital. Don’t just munch on Pa Tob’s Hong Kong-style egg tart (B40) and pa tong ko with dippings, though, as Kanom also offers a selection of Thai-Chinese dishes such as khao soy (noodles in Northern style, B49) and mee phad pak krached (stir-fried white noodles with water mimosa, B160).
Open Mon-Sat 9:30am-8pm, Sun 9:30am-6pm.
0-2391-2428, 02-712-6618

27.) Made My Day  

(EAT) With a classic European décor, Made My Day cooks up Italian dishes with Thai touches (such as pasta with salted fish). But the most popular time to visit this petite place is for the breakfast for dishes, such as the big plate of kai krata, a Northeastern speciality with eggs and sausage in a pan (B110).   
Open daily 7am-10pm. 02-714-7299

28.) The Racquet Club

(HEALTH) Fitness center, badminton, tennis, squash, racquet ball, futsal, rock climbing wall, swimming pool, jacuzzi, snooker, sauna and steam room, business meeting rooms—the Racquet Club is simply awesome, if you can afford it. 1-year membership is around B21,400, 6-month B14,980, 3-month B9,630, 1-month B4,280.
Open 6am-11pm. 02-714-7200

29.) Paste (NEW)

(EAT) The very new addition to this happening soi, Thai restaurant Paste spices up the traditional Thai cuisine with modern interpretations in a charming space. (See more on page 16.)
Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm, Tue-Sun 6pm-late. 02-392-4314, www.pastebangkok.com

30.) Peng You (NEW)

(EAT) Peng You Chinese Café shakes up the foodie scene in Sukhumvit Soi 49, which was formerly dominated by Western and Japanese options. A charming, high-ceilinged coffee shop, it’s vintage references to China Town are balanced by a cool grey palette for that touch of modernity. The food is totally nostalgic though, and might remind you of Hong Kong’s diners with dishes like toast and deep-fried dough alongside classic Chinese drinks like milk tea.
Open daily 9am-11pm. Piman 49 Complex, 02-662-6169

31.) Saigon Recipe (NEW) 

(EAT) The high-ceilinged space is decked out in an Indochinese-themed, adorned with hanging lanterns and a bamboo-strewn balcony overlooking the soi’s trees. On offer are classic dishes like pho (Vietnamese rice noodle soup, B160) and spring rolls (B90) and don’t forget to ask about their specials of the month, too. Before asking for the bill, do finish off your meal with a Vietnamese coffee (B50).
Open daily 11am-10pm. Piman 49 Complex, 02-662-6311,
www.saigon-recipe.com

32.) Shots 49 

(DRINK) A comfy but upscale sports bar that has a legit food menu alongside some fancy booze, it’s pretty compact, given the normally cavernous Irish-themed sports bars we’re used to. No faux wood paneling here—instead, Shots 49 looks to offer a contemporary vibe. It’s decked out in black leather sofas and low black tables giving it a plush gentleman’s club feel. There is a big LCD screen along the wall and a pool table surrounded by mirrored walls next to the bar. There’s also a tiny outdoor space but it’s more for people to grab a smoke than somewhere to enjoy the night air.
Open Tue-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri 5pm-1:30am. 02-762-7816.
www.shots49bar.com

33.) Shio (NEW)

(EAT)(DRINK) Bangkok’s newest yoshoku (Japanese interpretations of Western food developed in the Meiji era) is a spacious, pale-grey dining room like those contemporary eating spaces in Tokyo’s Daikanyama neighborhood. Must-tries include the khao gaeng gari pad haeng (rice topped with stir-fried minced pork and scrambled eggs, B270) and the tender Kurobuta steak (B440). Pair them with sake-based cocktails like Yellow Martini (yellow chili peppers) and Tokyo Route (sake-marinated blueberries, B280) and wrap things up with a fragrant and flavorful Mont Blanc dessert (B170).
Open daily 11am-2:30pm; 2:30-5:30pm (afternoon tea only) and 6-10:30pm. 02-662-8378

34.) Sindy Lim

(BEAUTY) Located on the second floor of an unassuming building at the mouth of the soi, Sindy Lim has been operating as a high-end salon for nearly ten years. Lim has a degree in hairstyling from the UK and is well known for tending to the hair of local celebrities whose privacy is guaranteed. Needless to say reservations are a must.
Open Thu-Tue 10am-8pm. 02-260-0635/0793

35.) Smith    

(EAT)(DRINK)The dream team behind Hyde & Seek bar at Phloenchit, chef Peter Pitakwong, star chef Ian Kittichai (who also owns Thai restaurant Issaya Siamese Club) and mixologist Chanond Purananda, combined forces again to create this new dining spot. Smith gets its name from its focus on craft, as in “blacksmith,” which in the food world, translates to the global nose-to-tail trend of eating every part of the animal from the tongue to the trotters. The décor also has plenty of nods to this ambition, with an industrial vibe consisting of a corrugated steel façade and old butchers tools and pictures of cuts of meat on the cement walls. The place has just added a chef’s table to let you get up close and personal with both chefs (B3,800-B5,800 per person) and remains very popular with the city’s socialites.
Open daily 5pm-midnight. 02-261-0515/6.
www.smith-resturant.com.

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