Soi 11 gets a taste of Naples
The buzz: The latest venture from Bangkok’s Soho Hospitality (Above Eleven, Havana Social, Charcoal) joins the group’s NY-style Soho Pizza at Soi 11’s new Eleven mall to offer an Italian pizza-focused counterpart to Ari’s Cantina Wine Bar & Italian Kitchen.
The decor: A modern, industrial spin on Cantina Ari’s original underground wine cellar style, with exposed, rustic brick walls and archways, strings of garlic, round faux-candle chandeliers and wooden tables reminiscent of the small eateries you find scattered throughout Italy. The first floor has views of the open kitchen, where you can also sneak a peek at the Soho Pizza kitchen. Upstairs, a larger yet cozy space enjoys plenty of natural light thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows—perfect for a working lunch or afternoon coffee. One wall is flanked with wine bottles and ladders for a cellar feel.
The food: Anthony Falco, a renowned pizza consultant formerly of New York’s Roberta’s Pizza and who also lent a hand at Soho Pizza, was called upon to train the Cantina team on the art of pizza-making, Neapolitan style. The dough, made daily, is fermented, kneaded and left to rise slowly for 48 hours. Sample the resulting pliable, charred base and tangy tomato sauce in the diavola pizza (B380), which comes topped with mozzarella, spicy Italian salami, black olives and basil. For a true starter, you can’t go wrong with the creamy burrata (B450) served with cherry tomatoes, shallots and fresh basil. If pasta’s more your thing, the signature Fettuccine Cantina (B390) comes loaded with shitake and porcini mushrooms, shallots, cream, black truffle paste and truffle oil. Finish off with the creamy, coffee-soaked Homemade Tiramisu (B200).
The drinks: A selection of classics made with Italian spirits has been crafted by Soho Hospitality Group Mixologist, Davide Sambo. We suggest starting with an Aged Negroni (B330) made with gin, Antica Formula vermouth and Campari, or the lighter Floral Negroni (B300) with gin, Aperol, St Germain elderflower liqueur and orange blossom water. For a Cantina signature, try the O’Mare, O’Sole (B230) featuring gin, limoncello, vermouth, passionfruit, citrus, sea salt and soda water. If you prefer wine, try the Chateau Essenciel Syrah Rose (B320) or the Good Chianti (B290), a red from Sangiovese.
Why we’d go back: Soi 11 gains another proper sit-down restaurant, and that can only be a good thing—plus, who can complain about having a Neapolitan-style pizza that’s been refined by Anthony Falco, the king of pizza! Megan Leon