From late 2011 to mid-2012, Peruvian cuisine was heating up from London to New York, with claims that its foreign influences (Spanish colonization, Japanese emigrants) and Peru’s incredibly varied flora (thanks to the many micro-climates found in its mountainous terrain) made it one of the best in the world. Above Eleven doesn’t quite live up to that lofty hype. But if you’re looking for some tangy small plates that aren’t your usual tapas, a 33rd-story view and stiff Pisco sours (B300), it does hit the spot. The Japanese-Peruvian menu has a lot of raw seafood appetizers, some yakitori skewers, over a dozen maki options (plus some sushi) and some heartier mains. For a cuisine praised for its variety, there’s a fairly strong commonality between many of the dishes, though, namely a mix of chili, coriander, shallots and lime. For example, the cebiche Above Eleven (B450) sees deep-fried calamari heaped onto seabass and prawns marinated in lime and aji amarillo (yellow chili). Another signature dish, the acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado, B360), is doused in a mayo sauce mixed with a more limey cebiche sauce. Not that we’re complaining; they’re both refreshing (a good thing when eating outdoors) and pack a nice kick. Heading inland, the anticucho beef heart (B250 for five skewers) is extremely tender, and comes with three lovely sauces: red chili, yellow chili and chimichurri. Unfortunately, the hearty rice-based mains aren’t much more exciting than an average khao pad, even when they’re heaped with yet more shallot-chili-coriander, such as the arroz chaufa con pato (duck breast and leg with fried rice, B410). Portions are generous, though, so you could always share one (the seafood-loaded arroz con mariscos is a tad more inspired, B450) if you’re worried that skewers and small plates of fish alone won’t do the trick. Our other complaint is with the bar, where they park the seedy Nana guys, the barman was obnoxious on our last visit and you’ve got your back to the skyline. So do stick to the lighter fare and do book a nice table: the views are great, the food is original, the produce is quality, and the prices are decent compared to many much less inspired five-star hotel rooftops. Corkage B1,000.
|Address:||Above Eleven, 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Bangkok, Thailand|
|Opening hours:||daily 6pm-2am|
|Reservation recommended, Parking available, Dress requirements|
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