This classic French restaurant is one of five outlets inside Sindhorn Tower’s new Glasshouse. A distinct building from the office complex, the elegant and light-filled space overlooking leafy Wireless Road retains all the charm of a standalone.

The menu has been put together in consultation with Bangkok’s favorite Gallic chef, Herve Frerard (formerly of Le Beaulieu, #12 in Top Tables 2015), who hasn’t lost his touch.Frerard may have more innovative compatriots in town, but no one nails tradition quite like him, be it a steak and fries (B1,250) or a humble plate of Morteau sausage with lentils (B650).

Before the raves, let’s get a couple niggles out of the way. The pastry is sub-par, meaning ho-hum desserts and bad bread. Nor does the service, while good, quite compare to Le Normandie or Water Library Chamchuri. Then again, neither do the prices.

Lunch is only B690 for three courses, with dishes such as a flavorful mushroom soup (B280 a la carte) whose texture keeps a bit of grit to underscore the shitake that went into making it. Also in that set, the perfectly cooked lamb shoulder comes with a charred crust, tender meat, a bed of fresh peas (not the mushy stuff) and a lovely jus.

Isn’t sauce the very essence of French cuisine? The port wine reduction coating a beef cheek on a bed of celeriac puree (B850) is just amazing, thanks to an almost intoxicating density of meaty flavors. You’ll have to get the B1,900 menu to get a taste of that, still a really appealing price point for a four-course dinner that comes complete with an amuse bouche and two appetizers. On our last visit, we had a perfectly cooked scallop with an excellent Nantua (crayfish) sauce (B650) followed by the onion soup (B390)—a thick, dark magma of onions and Comte cheese with a slice of gratinated bread on the side.

And just to be clear, while the service doesn’t quite treat you like Monsieur le President, Cafe Parisien still ticks all the right boxes: warm plates, breadcrumbs swiped off after your mains, fancy cutlery, thick tablecloths, attentive but unobtrusive wait staff. Admittedly, the a la carte prices remain steep, but stick to the sets and Cafe Parisien is a wonderful package. Do note that, as of October 2016, Frerard’s contract ended a month ago (not that it has hurt standards) and a new French chef is slated to take over. Our tip for him: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Corkage B1,000

This review took place in October 2016 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.

See also: Bangkok’s most underrated restaurants