Backyard by Baan
Le Du’s chef builds on his comfort food restaurant, Baan, with this suburban iteration of a winning recipe.
The buzz: Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn of Le Du is a regular in our Top Tables guide’s top 10 for applying techniques picked up at Michelin-star restaurants in the USA to Thai food. In 2015, he opened Baan on Wireless Road, a place that aims to be just the opposite, celebrating Thai comfort food executed traditionally. (Best pad kaprao in town.) This is Baan's first spin-off, plopped onto the ground floor of a suburban mall on Srinakarin Road, and keeping to a menu of Thai classics.
The vibe: Designed by Anghin Architecture (who also did Baan), Backyard by Baan uses symbolism to evoke an outdoorsy vibe. Instead of dangling ferns or roughly hewn wood, the facade’s y-shaped designs padded in greenery conjure a row of trees. And ceiling spotlights behind latticework on the ceiling make for sun-dappled tables. The rest is rather minimal—bare cement, mid-century furniture. Given the open-air circulation (think Siam Square One), Backyard also has some “outdoor” seating and a Singha stall ready to power you a pitcher. Throw in a flat-screen TV, and it all makes for a pub-like atmosphere that is a far-cry from the Wireless Road location.
The food: You’ll want to try all of Baan’s greatest hits: crispy chicken wings (B150), stir-fried pork with lime and kale (B180), and the signature tom-saep-kai-palo (five spices soup, B250) hybrid that works so well it needs to be added to the canon of classic Thai dishes. The kaprao with beef is available, too (B290), even if it’s too early to tell if it will match the original. Here’s what you won’t find at the original spot, though: western and fusion pasta dishes. Keep it somewhat safe with the fettuccine cream sauce with truffle oil (B390) or go for the fusion pasta dishes taking their cues from massaman (with braised chicken, B450) and tom yam (with seafood, B290).
The drinks: Beyond the draft Singha (glass/jug/tower B79/240/650), there’s a menu of craft beers (B240-280), affordable wines (B690-1,690) and very colorful cocktails (B280). Herbal drinks made with chrysanthemum, butterfly pea flower or roselle (B79) offer healthy, booze-free alternatives.
Why you should care: The Jas Urban mall has a Peppina and a Baan. You can’t top that. Maybe it’s time to move out of your downtown condo and head for the ‘burbs?