Every year it’s the same: the cool breeze blows into town and then blows straight out again, forcing us to head out of Bangkok for a taste of winter. The first choice for most of us is nearby Khao Yai. This year, to make your trip as fresh as the mountain winds, we give you some alternative ideas on where to eat, play and shop.

EAT

The sight of so many cows will surely have you hankering for a good bit of grilled meat. Fortunately, Khao Yai has plenty of homey eateries offering steak and more. Country Kitchen (Thanarat Rd. Km12, 044-297-573. Open Sun-Thu 8am-8pm, Fri-Sat 8am-10pm) is a favorite among TV executives and weekenders with its juicy grills and hot and spicy Thai dishes. This is also the only place in Khao Yai to serve up yummy fresh prawns from the Lam Ta Khong Dam. A bit further along the same road is Larn Lee Lar (Thanarat Rd. Km9, 081-701-1401, 081-870-7042. Open Wed-Mon 9am-10pm). Owned by an architect, Larn Lee Lar is set in a vintage-wooden house with decorative details you would usually find in places like the Ampawa and Taling Chan floating markets. Its highlights include somtam with shrimps and their waffles, as well as a wide range of fruit juices and smoothies. (Try their star fruit option.)

Hidden at the center of the Tuscan-themed shopping street opened last year, Palio, is Delicious Pies (Palio, Thanarat Rd., 081-813-4637. Open Sun-Thu 10am-8pm, Fri-Sat 10am-10pm). We say avoid the range of savory pies in favor of the sirloin steak and the pork knuckle. The apple and banoffee pies do hit the sweet spot though. If you can’t get enough of their pastry snacks when you’re back in Bangkok then you can make an order by phone and they will deliver to The Nine, on Langsuan Rd.

For something completely different, you can opt for Moon Dance Bistro (Thanarat Rd., 044-297-388, www.moondancekhaoyai.com), a new bar and restaurant, which combines contemporary presentations of international dishes like sea bass and rack of lamb with an equally contemporary décor and the occasional live performances from Bangkok-based bands.

PLAY

We all know that Khao Yai is really just Bangkok’s upcountry playground and there are an increasing number of sporty choices for those bored of horse riding at Thongsomboon Club (www.thongsomboon-club.com) or playing cowboy while enjoying some Umm..Milk ice cream at Farm Chokchai (www.farmchokchai.com). Life Park (www.lifepark.greeneryresort.com) opened last year but it’s only recently welcomed two new adrenaline inducing rides, the GX-Swing that hurls you as high as a 10-story building and the X-Max that makes you pull 5G as it flings you 60-meters into the air in a matter of seconds. Pay US$53 and you’ll get 10 coupons to experience these and more, including the Zorb, where you clamber into a giant ball and then get pushed down a 120-meter hill. Trust us, you’ll scream non-stop. If you want something a little less daredevil but equally breathtaking then take the HiFlyers balloon for 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside—as long as it’s not too windy.

SHOP

Tuscany first arrived in Khao Yai back in December 2007 with the Italian country style architecture of restaurant Primo Posto (www.primo-posto.net). Confirming that Thais are very good at copying things, we now have Palio (www.palio-khaoyai.com), which is bigger and features more choice. Still despite (or perhaps because of this) imitations, it is still proving to be the hottest spot in the area thanks to a solid selection of eateries (try Delicious Pies, see above), cool cafés (try Azzure, 081-655-5374) and fashion boutiques (try Anthony, 081-817-3910, 081-771-7662). It’s basically where you go to meet up with all your Bangkok friends who are also spending their vacation in Khao Yai, which means it does get super packed on weekends. Our tip: Primo Posto might be older, but you might actually be able to secure a table there and it does have a cute vineyard out back for a more authentic Italian vibe.

Essentials

Getting there

Head north on Phahonyothin Rd. and turn right to Mitraphap Rd. at Saraburi. You can get to Khao Yai through the smaller yet closer Pansuek-Kudkla Rd. next to Dairy Home Restaurant, and the main Thanarat Rd. You really need a car to get around so if you don’t have your own try Thai Rent a Car (www.thairentacar.com).

Where to sleep

Palio Inn (044-365-905, 044-297-731, [email protected]). Probably the newest kid in Khao Yai, Palio Inn features 12 compact guestrooms decked out in an Italian countryside theme and is located right in the middle of bustling Palio shopping central.

Birder’s Lodge (089-077-1159, 086-514-9874, www.birderslodge.com). Perfect for twitchers (that’s’s bird-watchers) you’ll be sleeping in an air-con tent equipped with hotel amenities under the trees, plus you have the added bonus of being just next door to Primo Posto (see above).

Hotel des Artists (044-297-444/742-3, 084-358-7755, [email protected]). Neither modern contemporary nor Tuscan, Hotel des Artists is set in a white colonial style mansion with rooms filled with equally classic wood furniture and romantic paintings. A villa zone is under construction and will be completed early next year.

Hom Muen Lee Hill Resort

ROAD TEST

Hands Off my Fiesta

Still chuckling about the TV ad­—”Dial Khun Mae”? Here, we try the new Ford Fiesta’s voice control in the real world.

CALLS
After tethering your phone to the car via either Bluetooth or the USB port, the car lets you start calling by pressing a button behind the steering wheel and speak any name on your list. Two issues: the car doesn’t read Thai, and you must use a “native” English pronounciation.

MUSIC
The car can also play music files stored on your smartphone. This feature can be activiated by voice as well as by using the dials on the car stereo.

Beware!
You might need to speak American English as sometimes the car doesn’t recognize your Thai-lish. And the tethering works only on smartphones.
www.ford.co.th/fiesta