Autumn in the Jiuzhaigou Valley attracts a lot of attention from all over the world. Though unknown to many, there are eyes and ears from all corners of the globe waiting to see the leaves change color, turning the valley into what is described as a photographer’s paradise. Even though it is China’s premier national park and a sister park of Yosemite in California and Cradle Mountain in Australia, it is still not well known to the masses outside of Asia.

With its breathtaking sights, and its Tibetan people living here for thousands of years (at least 3,000 going by archaeological data), it is no wonder that there are a multitude of legends tied to this place of magical beauty. Although much scientific research has been done in Jiuzhaigou Valley, the local people believe in the version of events that has been passed down to them through generations—the tragic myth of Dage and his gift to the goddess Woluo Semo, a mirror that shattered into 114 pieces, forming the sparkling, gem-like lakes of the Jiuzhaigou Valley.

Water World

The valley is best known for its water. The blues, greens and purples in the crystal clear pools must be seen to be believed. You rarely think of diving into and drinking from rivers and lakes in China but Jiuzhai Valley is the exception. However, swimming is not allowed in this protected area, much to the disappointment of many water lovers that come looking to take a dip. In almost every season—most notably autumn—the range of colors in the lakes of Jiuzhai Valley cause a visual overload. In winter, mountains are one color—white, brown or green. And there are no words to describe the magnificence of the composition, of the mountains transforming into a blanket of green, brown, yellow, red and orange with snowy caps in autmn.

Jiuzhai Valley is also scientifically significant. The park is located at the eastern slope of the Tibetan Plateau, at the intersection of the subtropical and temperate floristic zones of the Sino-Himalayan region. There are over 2,560 plant species including many of interest for their rarity, endemicity, ornamental or medicinal value. There are over 220 bird species, 170 vertebrate species, ten animals and two fish species known to frequent the national park. The best known of the animal population are the Giant Panda, Red Panda, Sichuan Takin and Clouded Leopard—although you are unlikely to spot any of the larger animals.

Season Change

The best time to see the mountains in all their autumn glory is between October 15 and 27. The leaves will start changing color at the beginning of the month but the best time to see them is at the latter stages are when they are in full swing. Like other national parks and scenic sites in China, a visit to Jiuzhaigou Valley is not cheap, especially in autumn. The daily entry ticket is US$34 and you still have to add US$14 for a shuttle bus ticket if you plan on seeing the whole park. Autumn accommodation prices are also expensive, with five-star hotels starting at over US$307 per night. However, It is still possible to find reasonably prized three- and four-star hotels.

Winter Wonderland

Winter is the off-peak season in Jiuzhai Valley. It’s too cold for the tour groups and it’s not really travelling season for many. This is excellent news for nature lovers and anyone looking for a bargain. The mountains are covered in snow, days are greeted with bright sunshine and apart from the few that freeze over, the lakes retain their bright azure colors. The most breathtaking winter sites are the massive waterfalls that freeze completely into jagged ice curtains. Jiuzhai Valley in the winter resembles imagined scenes from Narnia—which is why it’s commonly known as a “Winter Fairyland.”

Winter prices are very attractive as well. While two days park entrance including the bus will set you back a total of US$40, there are also discounts to be enjoyed on accommodation. The Sheraton, for example, costs around US$93 per room during this time and travel agents have very agreeable packages. The best time to see the winter scenery is mid-December to the end of March. While many hotels and restaurants close, the ones that remain open are not overly expensive and the owners will appreciate your custom. Because of the snow cover on the higher mountains and the lack of tourists you are more likely to spot birds and other wildlife near the walking trails of the park.

Where to stay

While there are many hotels catering to groups of travelers, for anyone interested in the local Tibetan culture there is only one place to stay no matter what the season. Zhuo Ma’s Homestay has been in operation since May 2009. Zhuo Ma and her family run a beautiful lodge in the mountains some distance away from the valley floor, which has been developed for tourism. Formerly a yak herder, Zhuo Ma could only speak the local Tibetan dialect until she was 17. She then went to Beijing with her cousin, worked for seven years and learned to speak Putonghua. Zhuo Ma can now speak manageable English (as well as Sichuan Chinese, Lhasa, Amdo Tibetan and a bit of French!) and is an absolute delight to meet. A real character, Zhuo Ma’s mother has also learned to speak Chinese over the last few years but she is likely to speak to you in Tibetan at times whether you can speak the language or not. Together with her brother Ke Zhu, Zhuo Ma also runs A Bu Lu Zi (www.abuluzi.com), the only authentic Tibetan restaurant in town. Ke Zhu has trained in Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine as well as his seven years of Tibetan cuisine training in Lhasa, and his yak meat and mutton dishes are delicious. Ke Zhu’s cute two-and-a-half-year-old son will keep you entertained, and also features prominently in all of their visitors’ photos.

You would have to search far and wide to meet nicer people and it’s an absolute joy to stay with them. It is a true Tibetan experience on the mountainside of a beautiful valley well away from the hoards of Chinese tourists and they really go out of their way to make sure that you enjoy your visit to their hometown.

Zhuo Ma’s Homestay: Zhuo Ma Jiuzhaigou Experience, Shang Si Zhai, Zhang Zha Town, Jiuzhaigou, China, (86) 1356-8783-012 www.zhuomajiuzhai.hostel.com

Hotel

Don’t do homestays? Stay at a hotel in Chengdu and take a day trip to Jiuzhaigou as no resorts are allowed in the national park. Selections include Shangri-La, Crown Plaza and Kempinski.