For many Burmese, there are three shrines that must be visited at least once in their lives: the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, the Mahamuni Pagoda in Mandalay and the Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda in Mon State, and junta or no junta, many Thai tourists routinely visit the sacred Buddhist landmarks in Myanmar. But although many have already been to Shwedagon and Mahamuni, due to the difficult access, fewer have found their way to Kyaikhtiyo Hill where the precariously-perched Golden Rock has long been standing the test of time (and gravity). But with recent free elections and the release of Aung San Su Kyi, you’d better get there before the hordes of previously-boycotting us tourists decend.

The Sacred legend

There are a number of stories about how the Golden Rock came to be. Burmese people strongly believe that the Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda was made by a super natural force and geological explanations haven’t really been demanded nor universally accepted. There are several legends surrounding the site, though the most popular is the one of the hermit Tissa who had been hiding the Buddha’s hair in a bun of his own locks. When he was about to die, he enlisted the help of Lord Indra and brought a rock from the sea resembling his head and perched it on the precipice and built a chedi to store the hair.

Whatever the story, there’s no denying the impressive site of beholding the 5.5-meter-high stone covered with gold leaf, practically dangling on the very edge of Kyaikhtiyo Hill, as if any minute, it could roll the kilometer down to the sea.

A Hard Journey

Of the three most sacred sites in Myanmar, Kyaikhtiyo is the most difficult to get to, the least of which is the five-hour journey from Yangon (see Essentials), passing military checkpoints along the way, to cross the Satong River over to Mon State, which has political issues with the Burmese government.

After this journey on a tourist bus, local bus or by taxi, you will reach Kyaikhto Township, the first base camp. Here you must change to another truck heading to Kinpun, the second base camp. For here on, it’s a hike on foot, or a sedan chair (see Essentials). Pay the entrance fee of US$6 and camera fee, US$2, and you’ll arrive at the first staircase of Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda.

As at any other temple in Myanmar, you will need to take off your shoes and socks from the temple’s entrance. The marble walkway, which is usually cleaned by Buddhist devotees, leads you to the cliff where the Golden Rock stands, passing through a grand marbled space intended as a tranquil haven for those who wish to pray and practice meditation. Though it seems small from distance, the Golden Rock is huge when you get closer. According to tradition, only men can pass the fence and touch the rock. And if you have a chance to do so, you’ll discover that the rock actually teeters if you push hard enough and the platform on which the stone rests is tiny. Pay respect to the pagoda, walk around in peace, enjoying the surroundings and make a wish for this place to be listed as a World Heritage Site next year.

Essentials

Getting to Myanmar

Daily flights from Bangkok to Yangon are operated by three major airlines: Air Asia, Bangkok Airways and Thai Airways.

Getting to Kyaikhtiyo

If you’re traveling with a package tour, they’ll usually put you in an air-con bus and traveling five hours shouldn’t be a big problem. Otherwise, be prepared for more tiring options: taxi or bus.

Taxi — Taxis in Myanmar can be as old as your dad’s, without air-con and or automatic windows. Take your time to pick the one whose condition is acceptable. Prices are really vary according to the condition of the taxi. Normally a roundtrip from Yangon costs around US$120-220. Our tip: try booking through a guesthouse (repeat, guesthouse, not hotel) and you can get a reasonable price, for around US$100 roundtrip. Try the Three Seasons Hotel (83/85 52nd Street, Yangon, +951-293-304, phyuaung@mptmail.net.mm). Bus —The bus terminal is located out of town, passed the airport. From there, take the Yangon-Kyaikthiyo bus (7,000 kyat). The bus takes around five hours, with a stop at Bago.

Whether traveling by taxi or bus, you will stop at the small Kyaikhto Town at the foot of the hill. From here you need to get on a truck (1,500 kyat) crammed with thirty other people while balancing yourself on a wooden bar. After 20 minutes you will get to Kinpun base camp where all international tourists need to get off while locals can keep going to the pagoda. You then have two options: a 45-min walk or sitting in a sedan chair while four locals carry you up (US$6-10 one-way, but a good choice for the children, the elderly and the disabled), as the pagoda is 1.5-kilometers uphill.

Best time to go

Winter season, from Nov till Feb, when the weather is cooler. At the end of Oct or early Nov when the annual Buddhist Lent period ends, there will actually be a festival where pilgrims do a long 18-km walk from Kyaikhto, the first base camp, to the hilltop.

As for the ideal time of day to visit, if you arrive in the late afternoon, get a room up on the hilltop so you can make the quick walk to the pagoda at dawn and dusk. For a more budget choice, you must leave Yangon at around 9am to get to the pagoda around 4pm, so you have time to walk down to sleep at the foothill.

Where to stay

Hilltop. For a nicer view, cooler weather and shorter distance to the pagoda, you will need to pay more for a room. With its location at the cliff close to the pagoda entrance, rooms at Kyaik Hto Hotel feature stunning views of the scenic mountains as well as the Golden Rock. Also try Mountain Top Hotel.
Foothill. If price is more important, our recommendation is getting a room at the foot of the hill. Try Sea Sar Guest House (next to the truck station). Despite the lack of scenic vistas, you’ll get a chance to try local food and shop for cheap souvenirs, which go for more in Yangon.

Currency

1 US$ = 800-900 kyat or B35 = 1,000 kyat
It’s better to have US dollars and change your money at Scott Market at the center of Yangon. You can also pay with US dollars for some services such as hotels and restaurants. Your US dollar notes must be brand-new, otherwise locals might not accept them. Credit cards are not accepted anywhere, not even hotels and there are no ATMs. Please note that all travelers are required to pay US$10 “service charge” at the airport unless you don’t want to leave.