Located 180 kilometers southwest of Shanghai, Hangzhou is overshadowed by the thrilling metropolis. But with its breathtaking natural beauty and a rich heritage, the capital of Zhejiang province has long been on the map for travelers in the know. Just as Marco Polo, who, in the late 13th century, described Hangzhou in his journal as paradise on earth. Today, 20 million visitors each year follow in the Venetian explorer’s wake.

Life by the Lake

Hangzhou’s centerpiece is undoubtedly the six-square-kilometer West Lake, which changes its face over the seasons. In winter, a snow blanket covers the landscape in white, while in spring and summer, you can admire the flowers blossoming by the causeway. Along the lake, you will find a vibrant mix of old and new—from historic attractions to chic cafés and five-star hotels.

If you are a fan of period Chinese films, Legend of the White Snake to be precise, the Broken Bridge is a must-visit as it is said to be where Lady White Snake first met and parted from Xuxian, her lover. Another legendary love-token destination is Leifeng Pagoda (15 Nanshan Rd). Standing on the south bank of the West Lake, the octagonal brick pagoda was originally built in the 10th century and, as legend has it, the White Snake was separated from her lover by a monk and jailed eternally in the pagoda. Today, there’s a steel and copper structure built over the old pagoda where two elevators are attached to carry tourists from the bottom to the top, where they can catch a bird’s eye view of the city.

Continue your cultural tour and make your way to Lingyin Temple a.k.a. The Temple of Soul’s Retreat. One of China’s most sacred temples, Lingyin is home to the largest woodcarving, gold-gilded sitting Buddha in China, and over 300 stone-carving statures in grottos.

Too lazy to walk around? Hop on a bike at one of the various bicycle rental shops surrounding the West Lake. The rental fee is around USD$0.30 for three hours. You can also board a ferry and visit Lesser Yingzhou Island. Though you are likely to run into hundreds of retirees on group tours, the islet, which is so famous that it is featured on the back side of the RMB1 note, is still worth a visit as you can take a stroll along a traditional “nine-turn” bridge that zigzags across the pond and leads to various Chinese pavilions.

Back to the Past

Stretching from Wushan Square to Zhonghe Road, Qing Hefang Street attracts hordes of locals and tourists alike with its old-world charm. Even though the out-of-place McDonald’s on the end of this historic street blends into the other century-old buildings, teahouses, bonsai shops and hawkers selling local snacks and touristy tidbits such as toys and accessories. Tucked into a quiet lane in Qing Hefang, the Huqingyutang Traditional Chinese Medicine Museum (0571-8780-3712) exhibits an extensive range of medical plants and a history of traditional Chinese medicine. It also triples as a clinic and a pharmacy. Time to get your pulse taken.

A bit further out of town lies Xixi National Wetland Park (Tianmushan Rd., 0571-8810-6688, www.xixiwetland.com.cn). For USD$6, you are treated to a boat ride along the wetlands, accompanied by a tour guide explaining Hangzhou’s water lifestyle in perfect English. Not interested? What if we tell you there is a small shop selling yummy Chinese wine at USD$3.60 a flask? A few sips of this potion and you’re tipsy and happy for the rest of the day.

Time for Tea

Please don’t go to the ubiquitous Starbucks. A trip to Hangzhou, China’s leading tea-producing region, would not be complete without a visit to one of the many tea cafés on Shuguang Road to sample the city’s famous longjing green tea. Our favorite is Hupanju Teahouse (Hubin Rd., 0571-8707-1746. Open daily 7:30am-1am). The décor of this lakeside, three-story tea house might be tacky, but the view of the West Lake and cozy outdoor seating compensates for that. A tea set, including light traditional snacks and dumplings sets you back around U-100. Tea enthusiasts should also check out the China Tea Museum (Longjing Rd., 0571-8796-4221). Nestled among serene tea plantations, the museum displays various kinds of tea leaves and how to properly prepare a piping hot pot of tea. It also hosts exhibitions about China’s tea drinking culture.

Retail Therapy

Other than teas, another famous made-in-Hangzhou product is silk, which is plentiful on Xinhua Road, a.k.a. Silk Specialty Street. But most of the items there are designed for your mom, if not grandma, so it’s better to head to Hubin Road, where you can rummage through designer brands from Hermes to Dolce & Gabbana. No, we’re not encouraging you to buy knockoffs. Want smaller price tags? Then make your way to the Night Market on the Renhe and Huixing roads. Note that the markets usually die down at 10:30pm, so get there early.

Homegrown Specialty

Hangzhou’s trademark recipe is Dongpo pork. Named after its creator Su Dongpo, a famed Song Dynasty poet, the braised fatty slab of pork belly is unhealthily delicious and practically melts in the mouth. The best place to get this must-try dish is Louwailou restaurant (3 Gushan Rd., 0571-8796-9023). Be prepared to wait in line, though.

Night Lights

There are many ways to enjoy a night in Hangzhou. For those looking for a laid-back night to catch up with friends, most of the restaurants and cafes allow you to lounge, chat and drink until 2am. For a more eventful and exciting evening, go to Song Dynasty Theme Park (Zhijiang Rd), where you can catch the extravagant Romance of the Song Dynasty nightly at 6:30pm and 8pm. A mix of circus, martial arts and acrobatics, the performance brings together four show-stopping numbers that tell the story of Hangzhou. A traditional Korean Arirang dance is even thrown in at the end to please Korean tourists. For more dreamy and offbeat flavors, we suggest you invest in Impression West Lake (tickets range from USD$54 to USD$2704). Set against the backdrop of the scenic Yue Lake, the outdoor visual arts and musical performances are inspired by the romance and legend surrounding the West Lake. Need one more reason to go? It is directed by Zhang Yimou (Hero, Curse of the Golden Flower).

WHERE TO STAY

The Shangri-la Hotel Hangzhou (78 Beishan Rd., 0571-8797-7951, www.shangri-la.com) offers a luxurious stay overlooking the graceful Xiling Bridge and the West Lake. Rates start at USD$180. Similarly posh, the Hyatt Regency Hangzhou (28 Hubin Rd., 0571-8779-1234, www.hangzhou.regency.hyatt.com) is much closer to the city center and shopping streets. Rates start at USD$165. More affordable beds can be found at the backpackers’ favorite Hangzhou International Youth Hostel (101 Nanshan Rd., 0571-8791-8948), where rates start at USD$6.