Walk by on a busy night, and you might miss one of the most unassuming and amazing yakitori joints in town. Run by the smiling and unpretentious chef-owner Ikeda Kenichi and his wife Yoko, Gosso is a cozy little spot with black walls covered in sake labels and old pictures, full of Japanese businessmen at dinner—all making it easy to imagine that you and your friends are in an old Yokohama izakaya. And the food is pretty terrific, too. Using the same supplier as famed chicken rice empire Boon Tong Kee, chef Ikeda uses lots of little tricks and secrets to grill up crowd pleasers that go great with Gosso’s list of beers and over 20 sakes.